What two places does the jumper connect, and what effect does it have.
FYI I drew this crude picture of a dpdt switch:
Crude drawing of DPDT switch: Where would the jumpers be? With what effect? (What to google for wikipedia or other article?)
L(eft) R(ight) C(enter)
[]---------[] [] = = = []---------[] []
I say, there are LOTS of ideas comong out of this suprisingly long and detailed thread, that I should be thinking about.
Knowing what to google for, or having direct urls, to places that tutorially explain some of this would nice to see, both for me and some others on the thread.
Well, with the forced hot air and zero supplied radiation, the air had to be pretty warm. Thus low relative humidity.
With radiator, you could have window (partly or wholly) open, thus air in room cooler (thus higher relative humidity than with forced hot air), and yet if in direct line to radiator, your body kept warm that way.
So, you still think it's a huge expense to install an inlet and Lockkit kit for that generator on your panel so you could power not just the furnace, but whatever else you want in the house?
Very wastefull having the window open letting cold air in - but what it DID do is give you "forced air heat" because the air flowing over the rad was heated and circulated. However, that gives you a VERY DRY house. The cold air cannot hold very much humidity at all - so if the RH of the outside air at -10C was 99%, when it warmed up to 20C in the house the RH would be something like 15%. If the RH outside at -10 was
50%, it would only be 7.7%
The secret to keeping relative humidity up in winter is to limit the air changes - keeping humidity in and dry air out. If humidity gets too high a small amount of ventilation can remedy it very quickly and effectively as the humidity is absorbed into the dry air - virtually "sucking it out of the house".
If you (not necessarily the OP) doubt my numbers (and someone WILL dissagree with me - absolutely unavoidable fact of life,) see:
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And no, I didn't google it first - and yes I do understand it.
Particularly with a shunt wound DC motor - open field = immediate overspeed and extreme current draw! Make before break would let the majic smoke out in a hurry too.
PS: If anyone feels like supplying a bit of context for these two answers, feel free to explain what a "shunt would DC motor -- open ..." is, and what's it's used for.
A DC motor has an armature (that rotates) and a field (on some motors the field a permanent magnet). The rotation is produced by interaction of the magnetic fields of the armature and field.
A series motor has the field connected in series with the armature. Shunt motors have the field wired in parallel with the armature (both are connected across the supply).
You can think of the armature as a resistance in series with a generator, which is the generator action of the armature rotating in the magnetic field of the field.
Just looking at a shunt motor, when you start the motor there is just the resistance (of the wire) and the armature current is high. As the armature rotates faster the 'generator' action opposes the supply voltage and the current decreases. At some speed the armature current would drop to zero. The speed stabilizes at a current large enough to supply the torque the mechanical load requires. If you lower the field current, the field magnetic strength is lowered, and the armature 'generates' less voltage. The armature has to spin faster to 'generate' more voltage. Field weakening is used for speed control.
If you open the field connection the 'generator' action produces very little voltage and the armature has to spin really fast, and will have a high current. Low torque may limit the speed, but the high current remains. The control circuit for a shunt wound motor may disconnect the motor if there is no field current.
A center-off switch in the off position will disconnect the field coil.
A single phase AC motor with a center-off switch on the start winding will run OK, but in the off position it will not start. It will draw high current when turned on.
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