I have a 20 year old basement floor which has been painted 3 times. The
room is heated with an in floor heating system. The water lines are approx
1" from the top of the cement. I want to install ceramic tiles on this
floor, but have been cautioned by a few people saying I must remove the
paint first before applying thinset. I have found out that removing the
paint is not an easy task. Sandblasting and high pressure washing are out
of the question because this room is completely finished.So I am down to
sanding or ?? Is it true that the thinset will not adhere to the painted
warm cement floor? Any ideas? email@example.com
On Dec 28, 5:42 pm, blemery_at_rogers_dot firstname.lastname@example.org (Bob Emery)
paint MUST BE REMOVED!!!!:( paint remover and its a big hassle. been
there done that why i always say dont paint concrete......
protect all finished surfaces, and be prepared for a terrible smelly
job. keep room well ventilated.
grinding can generate lead paint dust that will get into everything.
i suggest you scrape loose paint and repaint best you can..........
incidently paint stripper is the slipperest surface you will ever walk
on, guaranteed fall
If your heart is set on tile then you will have to put 1/2 or 1/4 inch
Durrock cement board down with a Ram Set or Tapcons....Thinset will not
adhere to painted concrete....Cracks in cement(if any) may transfer to the
tile...TrafficMaster Allure or a laminate might be an *easier* choice...
better be short tapcons if the heat pipes are 1" below surface
I have had good luck with using floor stripper from the Big Box, full
strength not diluted as per instructions. and a paint scraper. Hard
work. (did this in my laundry room, mostly to get up adhesive from old
vinyl tiles that I pulled up. I still should finish it but I have not,
so if you spill lacquer thinner on it it gets sticky in some places.
Been a little busy with more pressing home repairs (see prev. post)
sorry if I sound short my hands are tired and I got my f***finger on my
left hand taped up (didn't change blades in my utility knife soon enough)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Both hands on the knife Nate with legs to the side for the overshoot.
Don't feel bad. I put an awl clear through the web of my hand where the
fingers "V" once.
PhD / 20-20 Hindsight / School of Hard Knocks
I was trying to strip romex, holding the cable with one hand. I'd
already zipped it down the center and peeled it back, and was going to
trim the sheath off. Had to pull a little too hard and whups! Lessons,
etc. Not sure exactly how I caught it but I did.
I suppose I could have bought one of those sexy Romex stripping pliers,
but where's the fun in that? I mean I've only stripped something like
10 or 15 cable ends today :)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
You have a few options, A. fasten down a fine wire mesh designed for mason
work every 6'' with Tapcon* screws. or B. Glue 1/4'' cement board down with
PL-4 or a thick premium construction adhesive. C. If the floor is not
exactly level you can also apply Ditra*sheeting, this would be my first
choice since the Ditra is primarily designed for tile.
Bob why bother trying to etch, sand or strip the surface when it isn't even
an issue? It isn't necessary to create work make dust or slimey floors using
stripper. Screw Ditra* down and carry on as normal, problem solved.
You said to screw it in. OP said water pipes are 1" down. Am I being a
pessimist that screws will hit pipes or something?!!! I don't know Ditra
and I don't know heated flooring but ughhhhhh...
On Dec 28, 6:42 pm, blemery_at_rogers_dot email@example.com (Bob Emery)
Someone mentioned a belt floor sander, I've never heard of one of
these, (only the floor drum sanders or orbital pad sanders).
Personally I'd rent a floor orbital (floor buffer) style sander, that
will remove all the paint that needs to go (IOW the loose stuff), and
they are easy to use. If you are using mastic for the tile, you dont
need 100% removal of the paint. If you are using thinset then you
will need to remove it all to get down to the concrete.
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