Has anyone else used this?
Pour a pool of latex paint from a can you do not need anymore onto the
concrete floor section you want to strip of the dried latex paint.
Wait until it is dry to the touch (a few hours or overnight or even a
few days). Peel off with a putty knife.
I happened on this while cleaning latex paint splatters from my living
room walls onto the concrete floor and seeing how easily the
relatively new splatters just peeled off and left the underlying floor
free of the old, dried, otherwise super hard to remove latex. I am
prepping the floor for laying groutable, peel and stick tile.
I will consider the pressure washer, thanks.
I have used three different chemicals so far with varying but pretty
KleanStrip stripper (big mess; very toxic; need thick gloves and good
A chemical that comes in a spray bottle for specifically latex
removal. Lowe's sells it. I think it is better than the KleanStrip.
Acetone, which is not bad once the old paint layer is thinned down.
80-grit sandpaper is not bad but it requires much labor.
A Harbor Freight floor scraper is just a little better than my putty
Plain water worked well on one section. I soaked the area for a
minute, and the dried latex peeled up with a putty knife pretty
easily. But no luck with water with most of the floor.
I am a little concerned about how well the peel-and-stick vinyl tile
will adhere after all the chemicals.
I am experimenting further with pouring pools of latex paint from a
can I do not need anymore. Pouring them to the right thickness is key.
Do not spread the pool. The floor looks really clean in the spot where
a pool was after the latex is peeled up in pretty much one piece.
I know. I'd hang plastic sheets first.
I am in a very dry climate. I think surface prep for peel-n-stick
vinyl tile is even more important than in a humid climate. Plenty
where I live say they have had success, though, especially using extra
Pouring fresh latex paint on a concrete floor with old, dried, tightly
adhered latex paint, then letting the fresh paint dry for about eight
hours, causes the new paint to adhere to the old paint. The whole
puddle is easily peel-able and pulls the old, dried latex right up.
I am trying to locate Unicide 256 where I live. Brulin has a web site
at brulin.com with contact info so I could maybe locate a distributor
where I am.
The MSDS for Unicide 256 may be found easily via a google search. It
appears the active ingredient of Unicide 256 is various forms of
ammonium chloride. I caution folks about using home recipes. Remember
what bleach and ammonia mixed together produce, for one. The fumes can
severely burn a person's lungs.
Regarding my "trick" pouring pools of liquid latex onto the old,
adhered latex on the concrete floor: Best results are with small
pools, no more than six-inch diameter, and a low humidity. I am in the
southwest. I do not know that this trick will work as well in the
Oren, I am working on that youtube video.
What has worked well for me is using an old iron on the steam
setting. It'll make the iron unusable for clothes, but it works
better than any chemical. Just let it sit for 5 to 10 seconds on the
concrete while it steams, and then scrape or wire brush off the
On Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:23:42 AM UTC-6, Elle wrote:
I have just about concluded my concrete prep. My fingers are crossed.
One has to have a lot of old latex paint lying around for the pour-dry-peel method above. It did mostly help.
I bought some muriatic acid, diluted it to about 5%, and tried it outside first. I neutralized (hopefully) with a bit of diluted bleach. I tried it inside on about one square foot. The fumes are a bit much. I switched to plain old white vinegar (still neutralizing with some bleach) and got decent results here and there.
I tried the hot iron set on steam setting that mike suggested, with a thin rag between the iron and floor. No luck.
The leveling compound I will be using says that whatever is still adhering to the concrete had better adhere to the tune of at least 75 psi. I took my air compressor, set it at 120 psi, and went over the floor. It pulled up some of the old paint. I vacuumed. I am going to rinse the floor down a few times in the next several days, let it dry out a couple days, go over it once more with the vacuum, then put the leveling compound down and hope all is well.
On Thu, 21 Jun 2012 12:32:27 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
Neutralizing an ACID with BLEACH????
You gotta be NUTS!!!! You neutralize acid with something like baking
soda or lime. NOT SODIUM HYPERCHLORITE!!!
switched to plain old white vinegar (still neutralizing with some bleach) and
got decent results here and there.
the concrete had better adhere to the tune of at least 75 psi. I took my air
compressor, set it at 120 psi, and went over the floor. It pulled up some of the
old paint. I vacuumed. I am going to rinse the floor down a few times in the
next several days, let it dry out a couple days, go over it once more with the
vacuum, then put the leveling compound down and hope all is well.
On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 06:56:31 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
Yes, it neutralizes the acid - but what does the acid do to the
bleach? It causes it to break down, releasing CHLORINE (which is
different than mustard gas (made using sulphur dichloride and
ethyelene)) Depending what acid is used, Sulphur Dioxide can also be
produced -or hypochlorous acid, - or even thionoyl Chloride.
I'd rather overstate the case a bit than see someone suffer the rest
of their life with lung problems - a life which may also be
significantly shorter than normal.
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