Recurring GE Ice maker problem; help

My thought is that maybe the ice maker is positioned poorly, bound in a manner the shut off is not figuring things out. Shame the door has to come off.

Oren "My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."

Do you have city water? Backflow preventer at the water meter? No expansion tank? It's been noted before how these conditions can cause pressure spikes and leakage from the T&P valve on the hot water heater. Possibly you have this condition, but the valve in the ice maker is the path of least resistance allowing the water heater expansion to force some extra water out into the ice maker? It's a bit of a long shot, but if your on the 3rd ice maker it's worth checking.

Pete C.

When you had the replacement icemakers installed, did they also install a new water valve?

Harry

Are there calcium deposits in the icemaker section, causing the ice to not eject completely during the ejection cycle? Wouldn't take much residue left in the tray to cause an overfill.

Jerry

It's a possibility I've considered, since the drip is consistently in one corner location. The unit has connectors like a keyhole arrangement which slide onto 2 studs in the wall. I had considered a misalignment as possible and will check further ---recall that it's a nightmare to get close to it. Thanks

Art

Verrrry interesting. City water, yes. Backflow preventer / expansion tank, no. AND, the tap (an actual plumbing connection, not saddle valve) for the icemaker water line is on the cold water supply just before it goes to the heater, and I know we have very high water pressure compared to many locations. I'm not sure what to do to check this out other than paying for installation of the missing items..Thanks, Art

Not the last time! In view of other comments, I suppose that a subtle drip could be occurring, especially since our city water system is old, and frequently being shut off for main repairs, followed by a surge of rusty water, staining some whate clothes in the washer only today. (Thanks to a 1:16 oxalic acid : water soak I saved some undershorts which resembled a digestive accident :) I imagine I will end up with a service call and new unit under the extended warranty. I'll demand a new valve, which I know is packed in the kit. Many thanks

Art

I have had many good suggestions, and all seem reasonable and I'll check them all out. The water here is quite hard, and I see calcium deposits in other plumbing fixtures. The fact that the units run for months before developing the symptom could support your idea, as well as that of a weak / leaky valve. Someone soon, (either myself or the GE repairman) will soon have to tear open the freezer drawer to inspect and fix or replace the i.m. and I'll check or suggest mineral deposits as a possible problem. Thanks .....Art

I have a GE Profile bottom drawer freezer refrigerator. When I first got it a couple of years ago I had a problem with a puddle of frozen water on the bottom if the drawer. It was still in warranty and they sent a repairman out to replace the unit. Since then that hasn't happened. But some of the cubes, but not all, are attached at the top as if it was still overfilling a little. The manual says this is normal so I just put up with it. It's not really that much of a problem unless you just want a couple of cubes.

Mine is a GE Profile, 2001 vintage. I often have "connected" cubes that do not concern me at all, either. The "puddle", however, annoys me, since I do not think it should occur. It's intermittent, and may possibly be related to surges or over-pressure of the water (see thread above). What the heck, if it gets worse, I'll call them before the warranty expires. It is said that the electronic models are much more reliable. THese can be identified by the presence of an on-off switch on the unit, a green LED trouble light, and a plastic paddle that retracts inward instead of a wire to monitor the collection of cubes.

THanks for your response. Art drartieatattd0tnet

As mentioned, high water pressure can cause your problem, either from pressure build-up caused by your water heater or very high water pressure in your area. The valves have an internal orifice that limits the amount of water that enters the icemaker during the timing interval. The orifice is sized for normal water pressures. Overly high water pressure, no matter what the underlying cause, can defeat the purpose of the orifice. These are solenoid operated valves and, as such, have to apply enough spring pressure to the port to keep them positively closed against the water's pressure. If the water pressure is high, it can overcome the spring pressure of the seal and cause the valve to seep slightly. Also, anything that might increase the diameter of the orifice can cause excessive water delivery to the icemaker.

Normally, when you get a new icemaker, you should also get a new water valve since the water valve is a higher failure item for icemakers.

Harry