> > > > > >
> > >>> > > >>>> It really comes down to handful of questions:
> > >>>> 1) � Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
> > >>>> is out? � If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
> > >>>> your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. � When you are on
> > >>>> generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
> > >>>> electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
> > >>>> conditioning.
> > >>>> 2) � If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
> > >>>> get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. � This
> > >>>> will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. � Again,
> > >>>> don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.
> > >>>> 3) � Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. � That's enough for a window A/C
> > >>>> and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. � That's the
> > >>>> arrangement we have. � We also have a deep well water pump. � When the power
> > >>>> goes out for a time (like a few days), �I get by with running it a few hours
> > >>>> in the morning and another few others in the evening. � We can take quick
> > >>>> showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even
> > >>>> run the dishwasher. �We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like
> > >>>> the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
> > >>>> to the bone.
> > >>>> ** Posted from
formatting link
**> > >>> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> > >>> called it after Charlie here.
> > >>> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> > >>> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> > >>> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> > >>> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> > >>> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> > >>> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> > >>> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
> > >>> - Show quoted text -
> > >> They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost
> > >> $10-20 �month for their "self tests" �Nothin is free. Buy gen and its
> > >> a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > >> - Show quoted text -
> >
> > > please cite that monthly cost,,,, want link.
> >
> > > i doubt is anywhere near that, they run basiclly unloaded for 5
> > > minutes 4 times a month..
> >
> > > how do you get 10 to 20 bucks a month from that?
> >
> > If they are properly installed they will run until the coolant
> > temperature reaches a preset value. With most of the generators I've
> > installed that's about fifteen minutes. Then they transfer the load
> > back to public power, then ten more minutes for no load cool down prior
> > to automatic stop.
> > --
> > Tom Horne
> >
> > "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
> > for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
>
> Well the new generator is in the garage. I finished reading the
> instruction manual and all it said about extension cords was "don't
> use old frayed cords". One of my neighbors said he plans to use 14
> gauge. I went to Lowe's yesterday and looked ... the lawn and garden
> equipment we have uses 16 gauge. The generator will be sitting
> outside the garage and the cord that came with it will slip under the
> garage door - so the extension cords will all be inside. It seems to
> me that 16 gauge would be sufficient to run things like refrigerators,
> TVs, microwave and lights. We do not have room air conditioners. I
> hesitate to invest a lot into extension cords now because I am
> seriously thinking about buying one of those kits next year and
> connecting it to that. What do those of you who connect by extension
> cords use with yours? Thanks. (I bought two two-gallon jugs of
> gasoline today and put about one half tank in my car and I'm still
> reeling from the sticker shock. )
Dottie -
Get yourselves some good extension cords! And buy only the length you absolutely need since the added resistance of a long cord (or multiple connected cords) reduces the electrical power (Watts) or current (Amps) it can safely carry. (Remember: Voltage x Amps = Watts)
Remember, the higher the gauge number the less electrical power or current it can safely carry. In other words, 16 gauge is made for fewer watts (or amps) than 14 gauge which is made for fewer watts (or amps) than 12 gauge, etc.
Here's a handy table of cord gauge recommended for given Amps (Watts/Voltage) and length:
formatting link
Personally, with my small generator (Honda EU2000i which has two 120 volt outlets with surge watts: 2000 watts; running watts: 1800 watts; therefore, approximately 15 amps), I use 12 gauge extension cords and keep max total length <= 100 ft.