> Dottie wrote:
> >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > >>> > > > >>>> It really comes down to handful of questions:
> > > >>>> 1) � Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
> > > >>>> is out? � If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
> > > >>>> your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. � When you are on
> > > >>>> generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
> > > >>>> electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
> > > >>>> conditioning.
> > > >>>> 2) � If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
> > > >>>> get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. � This
> > > >>>> will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. � Again,
> > > >>>> don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.
> > > >>>> 3) � Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. � That's enough for a window A/C
> > > >>>> and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. � That's the
> > > >>>> arrangement we have. � We also have a deep well water pump. � When the power
> > > >>>> goes out for a time (like a few days), �I get by with running it a few hours
> > > >>>> in the morning and another few others in the evening. � We can take quick
> > > >>>> showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even
> > > >>>> run the dishwasher. �We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like
> > > >>>> the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
> > > >>>> to the bone.
> > > >>>> ** Posted from
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**> > > >>> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> > > >>> called it after Charlie here.
> > > >>> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> > > >>> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> > > >>> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> > > >>> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> > > >>> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> > > >>> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> > > >>> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
> > > >>> - Show quoted text -
> > > >> They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost
> > > >> $10-20 �month for their "self tests" �Nothin is free. Buy gen and its
> > > >> a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.- Hide quoted text -
> > >
> > > >> - Show quoted text -
> > >
> > > > please cite that monthly cost,,,, want link.
> > >
> > > > i doubt is anywhere near that, they run basiclly unloaded for 5
> > > > minutes 4 times a month..
> > >
> > > > how do you get 10 to 20 bucks a month from that?
> > >
> > > If they are properly installed they will run until the coolant
> > > temperature reaches a preset value. With most of the generators I've
> > > installed that's about fifteen minutes. Then they transfer the load
> > > back to public power, then ten more minutes for no load cool down prior
> > > to automatic stop.
> > > --
> > > Tom Horne
> > >
> > > "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
> > > for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
> >
> > Well the new generator is in the garage. I finished reading the
> > instruction manual and all it said about extension cords was "don't
> > use old frayed cords". One of my neighbors said he plans to use 14
> > gauge. I went to Lowe's yesterday and looked ... the lawn and garden
> > equipment we have uses 16 gauge. The generator will be sitting
> > outside the garage and the cord that came with it will slip under the
> > garage door - so the extension cords will all be inside. It seems to
> > me that 16 gauge would be sufficient to run things like refrigerators,
> > TVs, microwave and lights. We do not have room air conditioners. I
> > hesitate to invest a lot into extension cords now because I am
> > seriously thinking about buying one of those kits next year and
> > connecting it to that. What do those of you who connect by extension
> > cords use with yours? Thanks. (I bought two two-gallon jugs of
> > gasoline today and put about one half tank in my car and I'm still
> > reeling from the sticker shock. )
>
> Dottie -
>
> Get yourselves some good extension cords! And buy only the length you
> absolutely need since the added resistance of a long cord (or multiple
> connected cords) reduces the electrical power (Watts) or current (Amps)
> it can safely carry. (Remember: Voltage x Amps = Watts)
>
> Remember, the higher the gauge number the less electrical power or
> current it can safely carry. In other words, 16 gauge is made for fewer
> watts (or amps) than 14 gauge which is made for fewer watts (or amps)
> than 12 gauge, etc.
>
> Here's a handy table of cord gauge recommended for given Amps
> (Watts/Voltage) and length:
>
>
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> Personally, with my small generator (Honda EU2000i which has two 120
> volt outlets with surge watts: 2000 watts; running watts: 1800 watts;
> therefore, approximately 15 amps), I use 12 gauge extension cords and
> keep max total length <= 100 ft.
Ooops! Just noticed I made a mistake -- my EU2000i has running/rated watts: 1600 (NOT 1800).