> > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > >>> > > > > >>>> It really comes down to handful of questions:
> > > > >>>> 1) � Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
> > > > >>>> is out? � If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
> > > > >>>> your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. � When you are on
> > > > >>>> generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
> > > > >>>> electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
> > > > >>>> conditioning.
> > > > >>>> 2) � If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
> > > > >>>> get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. � This
> > > > >>>> will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. � Again,
> > > > >>>> don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.
> > > > >>>> 3) � Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. � That's enough for a window A/C
> > > > >>>> and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. � That's the
> > > > >>>> arrangement we have. � We also have a deep well water pump. � When the power
> > > > >>>> goes out for a time (like a few days), �I get by with running it a few hours
> > > > >>>> in the morning and another few others in the evening. � We can take quick
> > > > >>>> showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even
> > > > >>>> run the dishwasher. �We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like
> > > > >>>> the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
> > > > >>>> to the bone.
> > > > >>>> ** Posted from
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**> > > > >>> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> > > > >>> called it after Charlie here.
> > > > >>> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> > > > >>> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> > > > >>> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> > > > >>> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> > > > >>> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> > > > >>> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> > > > >>> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
> > > > >>> - Show quoted text -
> > > > >> They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost
> > > > >> $10-20 �month for their "self tests" �Nothin is free. Buy gen and its
> > > > >> a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > > > >> - Show quoted text -
> >
> > > > > please cite that monthly cost,,,, want link.
> >
> > > > > i doubt is anywhere near that, they run basiclly unloaded for 5
> > > > > minutes 4 times a month..
> >
> > > > > how do you get 10 to 20 bucks a month from that?
> >
> > > > If they are properly installed they will run until the coolant
> > > > temperature reaches a preset value. With most of the generators I've
> > > > installed that's about fifteen minutes. Then they transfer the load
> > > > back to public power, then ten more minutes for no load cool down prior
> > > > to automatic stop.
> > > > --
> > > > Tom Horne
> >
> > > > "This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
> > > > for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
> >
> > > Well the new generator is in the garage. I finished reading the
> > > instruction manual and all it said about extension cords was "don't
> > > use old frayed cords". One of my neighbors said he plans to use 14
> > > gauge. I went to Lowe's yesterday and looked ... the lawn and garden
> > > equipment we have uses 16 gauge. The generator will be sitting
> > > outside the garage and the cord that came with it will slip under the
> > > garage door - so the extension cords will all be inside. It seems to
> > > me that 16 gauge would be sufficient to run things like refrigerators,
> > > TVs, microwave and lights. We do not have room air conditioners. I
> > > hesitate to invest a lot into extension cords now because I am
> > > seriously thinking about buying one of those kits next year and
> > > connecting it to that. What do those of you who connect by extension
> > > cords use with yours? Thanks. (I bought two two-gallon jugs of
> > > gasoline today and put about one half tank in my car and I'm still
> > > reeling from the sticker shock. )
> >
> > After getting some good extension cords (I use and would recommend 12
> > gauge), you might consider getting cheap battery-operated thermometers
> > with remote sensors that go inside the refrig/freezers and transmit
> > (wired or wirelessly) to a receiver outside.
> >
> > That way you'll know when you really need to have the appliance(s)
> > plugged in. Since they are well-insulated, refrig/freezers can go many
> > hours without running once the temp is brought down. So, you can either
> > save gas by not running the generator or plug in something else that you > > need.
> >
> > I use a couple of the following wired remote sensor thermometers: > >
> >
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>
> > They were worth the 12 bucks each, shipping included. After putting them
> > in my refrig/freezer before an ice storm that was predicted last winter,
> > I've just left them in for the spring thunderstorm/tornado season. To
> > save battery life, I only turn them on when I want to read the temp. > >
> > By the way, about the gasoline: Be sure to use something like STABIL and
> > keep the supply in the gas cans fresh. At the end of each month, I put
> > the gas remaining in the can(s) into the car and refill the cans with
> > fresh gas-plus-STABIL. Some folks store their generators dry; I keep
> > mine fully gassed and run it several hours under load each month to keep
> > it "in shape and ready to go" with (pretty) fresh gas-plus-STABIL. >
> Thank you for your help. The man who sold us the generator said he
> puts just enough gas gas into his to test it once a month ... then he
> removes the left over. He said that doing that kept it from gumming
> up the works. Several people have said they have siphons and I have
> been meaning to ask where to buy them. There is an auto parts store
> not too far from me so I can start there I guess. The generator I
> bought has 5000 running watts. I have to measure and see how long I
> need - don't want to use more than necessary. Do you have a carbon
> monoxide monitor? I will be sure to run the generator outside but
> don't know how far the fumes move ....
Dottie -
Yes, I have a battery-operated CO detector that I put in a "prominent" location especially when running the generator. I believe the rule of thumb is to keep the generator exhaust at least 10 ft from the house (including attached garage) though I admit that I run my small generator closer, approx 5 ft, with the exhaust pointed away.
One thing you might think about is how to protect the generator, without overly restricting the air intake or exhaust, since the weather will likely not be very good when you have to use it. In my case, I've rigged up a simple plywood/tarp "roof" that I had the chance to test during a recent power outage from severe thunderstorms. It worked. :)
As for siphons: I have a common el cheapo bulb-and-tube sold by most auto supply stores but, after doing a little research on the web, I got a "Super Siphon" -- actually ended up with two versions (one with a brass tip and one with a nylon tip which I feel more comfortable using with gasoline) for the price of one; it's a very simple, self-priming 6 ft. long 3/8" or 1/2" diam. poly tube. One thing you might want to check before you need it is whether your siphon works on your car gas tank. Some newer tanks have a design that prevents siphoning.
Good luck.