I am not sure what the differance is, but I bought a Dewalt 18 volt drill at
Lowes on sale for $ 100. At work we have one just like it bought from a big
distribituer and the one at work has a lot less plastic on the outside.
The John Deere mower will be taken care of if bought at a John Deere dealer.
If bought at Lowes, Lowes will send you somewhere for warrenty work.
If you look at the modle numbers of lots of large dollar items, there will
be a slight differance. This is so the stores will not have to 'price
match'. Found out this when I was looking for a refrigerator. I think one
had an extra emblem or piece of chrome on the door.
I can not prove it, but heard that batteries bought from Wallmart look the
same, but internally there is less material than batteries at some other
Plus the "John Deere" at Lowes is the "Sabre" homeowners' model and
_not_ the same at all. I think, in fact, JD may have discontinued them
owing to that they weren't up to Green paint. Indeed, I see the link at
the Deere website links to a "discontinued models" page for support for
them that have survived...
About 6 years ago I bought a Deere L120 mower at the local dealer. Lowes
had the same modle. I now have slightly over 300 hours on it by the meter
on the dash. The transmission is just about out of it. It used to pull
the hill on my yard with no problem. Now it will work ok for about half the
back yard and the transmission gets hot and it will not pull the hill. It
seems to do fine on the flat land, but I bet that will go out soon. I
found out that transmission was a piece of junk and there is a third part
replacement for it , but that cost half the price of the mower. That will
be the last mower I buy from them. This mower is yellow and green. Should
have been all lemon yellow.
I am not sure how well it will hold up, but I will be looking to the other
brands next year if the JD lasts this season.
Yes, unless there was an A or B after the number. I did not check that
Exectally the same mower. I asked the JD dealer if he could cut his price
and he said no as Lowes sells the same model.
The mower I bought from the dealer would run about 50 feet and stop. That
was when it was brand new. They came and got it, replaced the seat and
brought it back. If I had gotten it at Lowes, I would have had to taken it
to some place to get it fixed uner the warrenty.
Saw it on other parts of the internet. Wallmart is big enough they give a
company a price for a product and the company has to come up with a way to
make the product for that price.
On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 18:41:42 -0400, " email@example.com"
A couple of years ago, the local JD dealer was selling the same exact
tractor as Lowes and he would do their warranty work.. He also
offered better start up service and free delivery. There may be other
models involved now, but at that time they were identical.
The guy selling the higher priced batteries told him, of course.
Unfortunately there is no good answer. The big box version could be the
same or it could be the "special walmart version". Places like walmart
buy enough stuff that often it may represent a production run that is
tuned to compensate for the price walmart names. And certainly "I looked
at it " is the most meaningless way to judge if say bearings are
different, a cheaper motor was used or batteries are not made as well.
On Sun, 19 Aug 2012 12:36:29 -0400, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
If the part number is the same at Wal-Mart as it is from a factory
dealer then the unit is the same.
If any manufacturer were to make a unit "cheaper" for the big box
stores then the model number is required to be different.
Underwriters Laboratories will not list two different makes that have
the same part number. There cannot be two different schematics for
the exact same part number.
If the big retailers are selling the units at a lower price than a
factory dealer it is typically because the chain buys a shitload of
units where as a local dealer buys on an as needed basis.
Example: As a dealer I can buy Signalink products direct from the
factory. But I can buy the same product through a local wholesaler
for less than I can buy it as a dealer.
If I were to buy as much bulk as the wholesaler then I would get the
same lower price as they do. But I don't need 1000 units at a time
nor do I have the warehouse space to store that amount. So I buy as
needed per job which is typically 30 or 40 units so I pay around $30
more per unit if I buy direct.
Another Example: You can purchase System Sensor products from Federal
Signal cheaper than you can directly from System Sensor.
Federal Signal buys a truckload at a time so they get a really low
price by volume. And they pass that savings on to their customers.
Regarding Generac or other such products, authorized dealers may
charge more than Lowes or Wal-Mart because they have trained
technicians on staff and they take care of warranty repairs themselves
instead of shipping anything back to the factory. That additional
liability assumed by them does get figured into the asking price.
The average mark up from a dealer's standpoint is typically between
30% and 40% (that percentage is how much of the list price is actually
mark up). Big retail chains typically only mark up their products by
10% to 20% due to volume.
My own experience has been that you get better service and response
from the factory authorized dealers than you do from retailers.
Thus "you get what you pay for" pretty much applies.
That's where I'm going. OTOH, he insists that they aren't. I'd like some
proof, other than what the guy selling the more expensive unit says.
"Required"? Dou have a cite for that?
Not everything is UL listed (batteries) but that's a good point re: Genrac.
...and the big retailer has the power to tell the supplier what the cost has
to be. Sale or no sale.
*Maybe* you can get the same price at the volume. Because they sell so many
of everything, they can demand a price that isn't on the normal price sheets.
I work for a large company that does similar. "We need it at $x, or no sale".
I've specified many components this way; at price $x, I'll design it in. At
is, just what they need to beat).
Makes sense. Expertise isn't free and Walmart doesn't sell it.
Like everything in life, it depends. Sometimes I go to the car dealer for
repairs, sometimes not. A lot depends on what the work is, but also on the
way I feel about both as businesses.
Here's an idea- has anybody called the manufacturer to ask? I'd think that if it has the same model number it's the same unit, although with cars you might find the same model made in different factories, even in different countries.
I bought a nice HD video camera last year, then saw a very similar unit at Costco, with a slightly different model number and different color. I called Canon and they said that the only difference is that the Costco model lacked one feature- you can't plug the camera directly into a Canon DVD burner and directly make a DVD, you have to use a computer. Not wanting to buy a special Canon DVD burner anyway (obviously I have a computer...) I bought the Costco model as well (wanted two cameras).
You'd be amazed what you can learn by asking.
On 8/19/2012 8:34 AM, email@example.com wrote:
it has the same model number it's the same unit, although with cars you might
find the same model made in different factories, even in different countries.
Costco, with a slightly different model number and different color. I called
Canon and they said that the only difference is that the Costco model lacked one
feature- you can't plug the camera directly into a Canon DVD burner and directly
make a DVD, you have to use a computer. Not wanting to buy a special Canon DVD
burner anyway (obviously I have a computer...) I bought the Costco model as well
(wanted two cameras).
Agree, a good friend had a similar requirement as the OP. He decided to
buy on price and went with the home depot version. I helped them with
the panel wiring. When we started it up we couldn't believe how loud it
was. So we figured that even though it was a packaged unit maybe we did
something wrong. After a bunch of calls the factory guy came out and
after some polite conversation he said this unit was made for home
depots price point. During that time I needed something at the local
industrial service place and I asked about differences. It was slow so
the guy invited me back and said they used different components and
showed me various differences on the dealer site they used for diagrams
and service information.
What evidence to you have to prove this? When I made my selection and
purchase, the model numbers, weights, and specifications were identical
from both Home Depot and the distributor model (which I personally
purchased since I avoided sales tax and also saved a couple hundred more
bucks compared to Home Depot pricing).
What proof do you have that there actually is some difference?
I realize this is an older thread, but I'm just getting to it. Let's
see, 200/24 = 8.33. So you're claiming that a typical homeowner won't be
needing a generator for a total of just over a week? I'd say anyone who
expects that level of reliability from their power company doesn't need
a generator at all.
8.33?? Are sure it's not 8.32 or 8.34? Did you learn about significant
figures in community college?
Aside from Shitty's over-decimalization, 200 hours is about alls yer gonna
get if you buy an effingGenerac.
And then there is the issue of "typical home owner". And the issue of
expectations of future reliability.
But the implied point is actually a good one, skewed a bit by Irene and that
crazy Halloween storm in the NE.
After that, generators were backordered for up to 5 months, mebbe more. 3
million people lost power in the Halloween fiasco, hundreds of thousands of
them for up to a month. holy shit.....
So statistically, most proly don't need one. But, not many in the NE will
Plus, if all's yer gonna do is get a bitty gasoline generator for lites and
a fridge, it's no big deal.
But if yer tryna do a whole-house thing "right", without breaking the bank,
the setup really is a pita. Noise is a big issue, most of these units are
unbelievably noisy, even with quality Honda engines. Incl Generacs. Don't
believe that 73 db bullshit.
If a contractor sets this up "right", esp. on nat. gas, it *will* break the
Tri-fuel is a neat and not super-expensive option, as it allows a wheeled
unit to act as a true standby on nat gas, AND a portable work unit on
For me, $1500 for an 8750 W noisy Honda-powered tri-fuel is worth
200/24=8.33 days, esp. with the prospect of another Irene/Halloween, and a
But that is because I can do the whole installation. It would not be worth
it to me for the total price of proly $5K+ for a contractor to do it.
Hey Shitty, wadn't it you who was going to do geothermal, and get 100% ROI
in, like, 3 years??
Howzat goin?? You were perty quiet in the recent geothermal thread.....
That is why I don't have a generator. One time we were out for two
days (hurricane Gloria). Another time we were out for 8 hours. Never
had any outages more than 30 minutes at any other time in my life.
I can't justify having $1000 sitting out in the garage not used.
Back to your math. Would you have it running 24 hours a day? I bet
that 8.33 days can easily be 16.66 or more.
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