PING Clare S

You've been a great help in the past helping me diagnose car problems ... I'm trying to help my son figure out a dead cylinder on his 2003 town & country van . He's getting a code that says #6 injector is not
functioning . We've tried swapping that injector to a different cylinder , the code does not follow the injector . We have replaced the injector wiring harness because it was melted and shorting out , it has been suggested that the short may have caused damage to the computer - specifically the #6 injector driver . I know exactly zip about these newer cars with the all computerized engine controls and hope you can shed some light on this problem . If I can't get this thing running right I may have to let him take my truck again ... and I'm not sure it can survive another round of his abuse . Another question , can this problem cause other damage ? I don't think it can since it's just not getting gas to that cylinder but ...
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On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 4:11:04 PM UTC-4, SNAG wrote:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector
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On 7/26/2020 4:04 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Thanks , but we've already determined that the injector is OK . We swapped it to a different cylinder , the code did not move with the injector . Also , I applied 12V to the injector in question , it clicked as it should - I pressurized the inlet side while momentarily applying power and residual fuel flowed from it . It is in a different cylinder now and functioning properly . If I had an oscilloscope I could check for a voltage pulse ... my voltmeter isn't fast enough to catch it .
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On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 5:22:30 PM UTC-4, SNAG wrote:

Did you look at that link? It's not just about testing the injector, it's about seeing if the wiring to the injector is triggering the injector. Looks like it works by providing 12V on one wire, then grounding the other one to trigger it.
We

That link gives ways to do it with just a VOM or test light. I'm sure if you google for testing injector circuit or similar you'll find plenty of videos too.
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On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 5:04:15 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Should have added, I'd do the tests they suggest at both ends of the cable that was replaced and to what it plugs into. This is a new cable as opposed to a repair to the old one? Work back from the injector to the electronics. A wiring diagram from Bentley or similar or online helps. I suppose it's possible the shorted wire killed the driver, but typically electronic drivers are current limited so a short won't fry them. Someone trying to jumper things during testing, connecting direct 12V somewhere it shouldn't be, that will blow things.
I don't see a cylinder not getting fuel doing any damage either.
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In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:10:49 -0500, SNAG

I'm not Clare but what is the code? There could be more than one related to this, especially if it could be the computer.

Good question, my guess is no for the reason you give. Clare will be around soon.
He ought to be able to get by on 5 cylinders. When I was a boy I only had one.
Of course that was a lawn mower.

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On 7/26/20 3:10 PM, SNAG wrote:

Silly question. Fuse or fuse link?
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Check to see if you have 12 volts on one side of the injector with the plug removed. If you do,connect an analog voltmeter to check for pulse on crank. The 3.8 batch fires until crank sync, then goes to sequential. The power feed is brown ans white. The control wore for #6 is brown and violet. The copmputer is just in front of the battery so readily accessible. check continuity of that wire. Of you have 12 votts on the brown wire, no pulse on the brown and violet, and continuity between the ecm and injector you fried a driver. They are potted so hard to get to the actual driver to replace the driver - I think it is a Cherry peak and hold driver like a CS51031
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On 7/26/2020 7:02 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:

THANK YOU ! I'll forward this info to my son ,
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