Year, engine and transmission again? Emission control solenoid sounds like canister vent solenoid?? The only time delay relay in the engine system I can think of was for transmission controlled spark system in the early seventies - (70-71 without A.I.R.)
The only "time delay relay" I can thinkof in a 1986 vehicle would be in the wiper system - intermittent wiper relay.
The evap control solenoid valve is back on the evap canister above the back of the muffler somewhere. The wire back to the evap solenoid could very well be chaffed through anywhere between the fuse box and the back of the truck - again I would check the wiring harness in the area of the replaced transmission first.
Thanks Clare . It's a 1986 GMC 1500 p/u with a 305 V8 and a 700R4 . No wiper delay , and the evap canister is up by the radiator on the driver's side . I went over the wiring in the engine compartment yesterday AM , found no frayed or rubbed insulation (but did find a lot of grunge). The only place I found that had any sign of damage at all was on a bundle that crosses over the steering column , where the ignition switch rod had rubbed a small spot , but not all the way thru the wrap and the radio supply isn't in that harness . I've put the dash back together enough to drive the truck but left the radio out . We'll see if that fuse blows again w/out it installed . Since both radios have a fuse in the power lead that hasn't blown I figure it pretty much has to be a fault in the truck wiring . I'm just really frustrated that I can't find anything . I'm considering pulling power from another switched source , whether ignition or accessory isn't critical to me since I don't listen to the radio with the motor off .
The 700R has a lockupo converter. The lockup power comes from an Acc power plug right above the RDO fuse (radio) and is a brown and white wire in a brown plug. Disconnect that brown plug and see what happens. Not an uncommon problem - particularly if some hamfisted hillbilly wrench changed the transmission - - - - - - That "acc" plug is powered by the 15 amp radio fuse.
Well , it's definite now that the fault is in the wiring . I left the radio out , the fuse was blown when I got to town . That lockup wire will be on the connector that hooks to the trams along with the backup light switch etc ? FWIW the hamfisted HACK that installed it is my son . He definitely ain't a hillbilly ... he's a flat-lander ! And he's for sure a hack , couldn't be bothered to actually finish the installation by changing out the speedo drive . I wonder if I can check that with my digital meter . Leave the fuse out , set it on beep and run the truck up to highway speed . If that's it it should start beeping when the trans lockup is supposed to engage . That would also explain (at least partially) the lousy mileage it's getting and the fuse not blowing until I'm on the highway . Is there a cure for this problem that will keep the lockup functional ? I really appreciate your help with this , it's been running me in circles . Gettin' nothing but dizzy trying to figure it out .
I doubt that Clare means any offence .. with "ham-fisted hack" - - it's just that - to someone who endeavors to build a friggin' home-made airplane ! ... certainly almost everyone is a hack. :-)
Perhaps you misunderstood me - my son IS a ham-handed hack shade tree mechanic . As I said , he was too lazy to complete the job properly by swapping the electronic sensor out for the mechanical drive this truck needs . I'll probably get under the truck (tomorrow , rainy here today) and find the lockup wire pinched between the trans and motor or something equally stupid . Hell , he couldn't even be bothered to bolt the dipstick tube in place properly .
I didn't mis-understand. not at all .. I am myself a ham-handed-driveway-hack at best ! especially for auto repairs. .. sorry to have led you to the point of explaining it. I was just trying to post a little light-hearted back-ground .. Your beloved son is a scholar and a gentleman in my estimation until he in - person proves different to me. John T.
Easier - just disconnect the brown connector at the fuse panel and if it doesn't blow the fuse you KNOW where to look. I've seen the harness toasted on the exhaust manifold - and pinched between the engine and bell-housing - - as well as left hanging loose. The lockup solenoid is just ahead of the accumulator housing on the left rear of the trans case between the 1st and second pan screws forward of the left rear corner.
I must admit that there have been times I took shortcuts - but I always finished what I started .
It appears that you have nailed the problem ! I unplugged the brn/wht wire at the fuse block and took a ride down the highway . I still have power at the radio connection ... tomorrow I get under there and figure out where it's grounding out . I suspect that my gas mileage will improve after this is repaired - the boy did mention the lousy mileage he was getting , and it did seem like I burned more gas than I used to between Memphis and home . Two birds with one stone this time . I would NEVER have discovered this without your help , and I thank you .
The flat rate mechanic's credo - "ya gotta cheat to eat" - which is why I never worked flat rate - and nor did any of my mechanics.
There are times where working smart is much better than working hard and long - and I became a master at that.
There is a way to wire up the converter lock using a pressure switch, a manual switch and a relay so it automatically locks when in
4th IF you tell it to - and will not lock in any other gear. It involves removing the 4th gear servo cover and drilling and tapping it for the pressure switch and wiring it so the relay only turns on when the switch senses pressure on the high servo - if the harness is too badly mangled and the control circuitry damaged - but it APPEARS the control circuitry is still working.I'll be off-line for almost 3 weeks starting Monday afternoon - so if you need more info you'll need to "get crackin'".
Takin the little woman to Italy and on a cruise along with 3 other couples - all long-time friends.
"Clare Snyder" There are times where working smart is much better than working hard and long - and I became a master at that.
"It is a thousand times better to have common sense without education than to have education without common sense."
- Robert Green Ingersoll
But having both is best! ;-)
Knowing what to do with the education certainly helps!
"Xeno" <
Yes! And that is why Clare has so much respect in this group! Kudos to you Clare, Thank You. ;>)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.