On Friday, July 4, 2014 4:06:11 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
Just lowering the temp from 78 to 76 would probably make more
difference and use less energy. I keep my house at 76/77 here in NJ
and never have a problem with humidity. If it's been off because
I'm away, within about 20 mins, you can already feel a big difference
in humidity dropping.
Perhaps it depends upon the climate. I've lived in tropical climates most
of my life. I've used ceiling fans for decades, long before they were
popular or even commonly available. At the same time, central air
conditioning in homes was very uncommon; even room air conditoners. My fans
ran down, May through October (the other months were cool enough so that
they weren't needed).
We now have central air but it is rarely used . It is rarely used because we
like open windows and don't often need it. Why don't we need it? BECAUSE
THE FANS RUN DOWN.
Unlikely, unless you are 130 years old. In restaurants or even some
upscale southern homes they had such fans back then. Often multiple
units driven by a common motor and belts. They had less than the usual
five blades of modern versions but they sure were ceiling fans.
Even today's style showed up in the stores over 100 years ago:
Ours doesn't look much different except that it has five blades.
Now you understand why I discount 'experts'
I do not know where the code is located but it is my understanding that in
AZ it is AGAINST the law in every municipality around these desert
communities to paint WHITE, too blinding, just not allowed. Instead, there
are a series of slightly darker/offwhite, desert colors, many named for
the city of origin trying to obtain some semblance of uniformity, each
contiaininng their own city name.
Yes direct sunlight onto a surface is reflected or absorbed, but walls are
not direct sunlight, if done properly. They're under eaves in mid day. I
even found that our garage interior at mid day was noticeably cooler with
the darker color than it was before. I assume radiation of heat OUTWARDS
became more dominant a heat transfer. What made me think of it was
thinking about how frost used to form on lawns at 38F degrees, night sky
radiation sucked the heat right out, In regions of Sahara many desert
populations wear a preference of dark clothing too. so thought I'd give it
a try. Now, during the transitional seasons, when neither run AIR nor
HEAT; the temperature range has narrowed to around 3 degrees, which is
very reasonable, before it varied 5-6 degrees. Wake up house cool, during
day heats to some temp, with the narrower range we don't even turn on the
Heat Pump System, irritating our utilities suppliers to no end, but saving
the US overall energy costs.
It is my understanding that according to scripture the purpose of the sky,
and its complexity, is a way for God to talk to His people, to those who
can read His messages. Not meant for everyone, but makes sense. Certainly
explains why earth is located where it is. ;)
If the AC is oversized it is not efficient at removing humidity
because it doesn't run long enough. ANd if it isn't warm enough to
require running the AC, you still have the humidity.
Running the heater and the A/C at the same time MIGHT help, by forcing
the AC to run more, but it most certainly is NOT efficient. At the
price of electricity in Ontario, particularly during peak periods, it
doesn't make any sense at all. We run the AC off-peak to drop the
temperature and keep the house closed up on-peak to keep the heat out.
As soon as it cools down outside the wife wants to open the windows -
even when the humidity is 81%+ outside and only 40% inside.
Slowly getting her trained, after 33 years.
On 7/4/2014 10:31 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Back in the late 1950's my father was the plant engineer in a printing
plant. Humidity control was more important than temperature for
comfort. They had a huge AC system and if the humidity got too high
they fired up the boilers and added heat. That kept the AC running and
Does it make sense for you? Depends on your price of comfort. There are
still people that hate the heat yet won't pay to run the AC.
On 7/4/2014 10:31 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
But that is exactly what you *are* doing, running that dehumidifier is
the same as running the big AC unit. I guess it might be more expensive
to run the heat outside rather than keep it in.... but no, the heat is
always run outside by the big unit because of the thermostat.
Clearly the small unit is less efficient, small things usually are. So
why not run the big unit that does a great job of removing the moisture?
It is larger so will need to run much less to lower the humidity. It
is also equipped to remove the water while most room dehumidifiers have
a bucket you need to empty unless you have it tied into a drain.
On Thursday, July 10, 2014 5:36:20 PM UTC-4, Brian Gregory wrote:
Stop it right now. You're being entirely too practical....
That's what I've been doing for decades. And despite all the talk
about the need to remove humidity without lowering temperature, it's
always worked fine for me here in the NYC area. If it's 77 and the
AC hasn't been running, it can get humid. So, I just lower it to 75,
it runs and in 20 mins you can feel the difference and it's comfortable.
I'm sure having a two stage AC, humidity sensors etc could control
it better, but it's not a problem for me.
Well, our house is pretty well shaded by the tree canopy in the
summer - so the absorption heat gain is not terribly high - and it
generally isn't hot enough that the colour of out roof would be an
appreciable factor in radiating heat over-night, but if /when it gets
really Mugglyhot the darker roof is likely an advantage. Often the
Mugglyhot days co-incide with significant cloudcover around here too.
(Mugglyhot = Muggy/Ugly/Hot weather from hell -used to only get a
couple weeks of it, split up into short periods of a couple days -
lately we've been gettin 2 week stretches several times per summer.)
OR simply run the fan blowing down to "suck" the hot air down from
the ceiling. That's what we did in the shop at the dealership - ran
the fans 24 hours a day during the winter - and it kept the floors
dry, the shop comfortable, the gas bill down, and the doors ice-free.
Heat was by natural gas "unit heaters" in the top corners of the one
shop, and the middle/side of the other.
Those fans paid for themselves the first week we installed them!!!!
On Friday, July 4, 2014 11:34:11 AM UTC-4, Tim Wescott wrote:
Have you looked for a condensate drain line coming out of the air handler
and for water coming out of it when the AC is running? It's a virtual
certainty that it's removing water from the air, it's a direct result of
the physics. The humidity is likely still high because with it set at 78F,
unless it's real hot outside, it doesn't run enough to take the humidity
out. A significantly oversized system could result in it cooling off too
quickly, but my bet is 78F is the main issue, especially in Oregon. The
system most likely just isn't running enough.
You are smoking dope on this one. A heat pump *is* an air conditioner.
Run it one way in the summer and use a reversing valve to swap the
coils in the winter to cool the outside and warm the inside.
When running as an AC it condenses water on the inside coils and pumps
that water outside... or it *should*. It is possible (although I've
never heard of doing this) that they are evaporating the water back into
the house like they do in a fridge. But that would be crazy.
BTW, in the winter the outside coils condense moisture too, but as ice.
They need to run in AC mode to melt the ice and must run backup heat
to keep the air warm while doing so.
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