That doesn't replace the sensor only the seals around the valve stem. The sensors do have a finite life as they have an internal cell that provides power which tends to last about 5 years or so.
Given my own experiences, if I had to have a tire dismounted and knew that my sensors were 4+ years old I would go ahead and replace the sensor at that time. However if you only get 2-3 years out of a set of tires, I'd schedule new sensors every other tire change.
nate
If going by horn chirps...but you can't see the right rear tail light while putting air in the tires.
The above is for a GM vehicle.
I must be good. I can do it with "chirps" alone--LOL!
yes, it's irritating. Especially on one that requires tire rotation with every oil change. If you don't do it, if you pick up a screw you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out which tire is actually low. BMW's reset procedure is much easier (essentially selecting "reset" from a menu) but this is one rare instance where GM's implementation is actually better in some respects, as it allows you to scroll through the actual pressures of each wheel on the display.
nate
On 10/24/2013 11:56 AM, Ron wrote: ...
On a half-dozen or so GM and Chrysler vehicles I have/had that's never happened -- the firmware seems to have sufficient leeway on high side to account for warmup. I tend to run to the higher range of rated pressures; 35-36 usually instead of the low 30's typical of the vehicle column stickers. Whether that has any bearing or not I've no data to refer to. I have had a time or two when did have a low warning the second morning out -- why that's a pretty common possibility for us will be seen from the next paragraph. :)
Since we're on several miles of gravel roads and there's always new junk turned over every time they're graded, punctures are a way of life, particularly on the passenger cars. Hence it's pretty common to get a 'low' indication the next time go get in the car from having acquired a new slow leak...that is actually a useful feature particularly for the wife to go by the tire shop when she gets to town if it's at, say, 20 or so so it'll make the 5-mi or so trip...or even if lower to add some air before she heads that way. So, overall, imo they're _a_good_thing_ (tm).
...
I've had Buicks for 20+ yr and none have had anything remotely resembling that--simply 'RESET' from the monitor for the tire pressure screen display field when cycle thru variables.
This holds from the first that were simply an imbalance indication (no absolute nor even identify which tire just an anomaly) to the present that are absolute pressure for each wheel--the reset was the same.
The 300M Chrysler was essentially same w/ a slightly different interface to the computer--when got back to the farm it had too hard a suspension and too low ground clearance for the dirt roads so replaced it w/ another Buick (the Enclave as it has 20" rims for clearance and AWD for the mud and sand).
The Explorer is not an "SUV body on a passenger car". The Explorer is a truck frame (identical to the Ranger) with a bit different body. But, yes, Ford screwed the pooch on that one.
When all government has is a huge government sledge hammer, the individual is always the nail.
The pressure in tires rarely increases by itself. ;-)
Well, I've only had to do it once (so far) and I just wanted to make sure I got it right by the owners manual.
Well....
On 10/24/2013 12:05 PM, Ron wrote: ...
Which one(s), specifically? I've never seen such and had almost exclusively (one Chrysler thrown in) for the entire time of the pressure sensor era...
I want to be sure to not ever have one--it's another thing to check for that one wouldn't normally--like whether there's an actual antenna on the radio or not (who'dda thunk that wouldn't be on a vehicle but the '10 Enclave doesn't :( ).
Then how come in NASCAR they start out with really low tire pressures at the start of the race or after a pit stop to allow for the pressures to build up?
I've already posted this once but here it is again and this covers the
2010 Enclave....
...
...
Oh, we've been talking two different things -- that's for the replacement of a sensor and the recalibration of the system--I apparently misinterpreted the first posting responded to's pont of reference.
I was just speaking of how to reset the alert after an alarm situation/tire repair/etc. I can understand that swapping out a sensor is more involved to reprogram the CMOS constants; I've never had to do that in the entire time of all the vehicles that have had pressure sensors.
No, that was after rotating the tires. It even stats in the owners manual that the after rotating the tires to "Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor" Page 10-50.
And the steps to reset the monitor are on page 10-49.
Maybe you have never had to do it because the tire store reset it after installing/rotating tires?
Impalas 2006-2009 at least.
nate
Just how does it tell a "low tire" from a properly inflated one when going around a sharp corner?
Harry K
I'm assuming that the software is programmed to allow for a decent amount of time with consistent rotational speed differences before throwing the light.
You could probably trick it by driving around in the same circle for several minutes, but a) I don't have a car with FTM (FTM = Flat Tire Monitor e.g. inferred from ABS wheel speed sensors; TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitor System) and b) I'm not that bored.
nate
On 10/24/2013 2:42 PM, Ron wrote: ...
...
I've never bothered to rotate tires--can't see it's ever made any difference presuming keep vehicle aligned and proper inflation since advent of independent suspension. Of course, on these gravel roads wear isn't such as would see if only drove on paved roads, either...
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