I have a bit of a bitch about my boat motor, but it's not so much the gas I use, but the fact that it's oil injected. You cant just pull the fuel line and run the carbs out of gas at the end of the season, so unless you run it every once in a while in the off season the fuel and oil mixture gels up regardless of the ethanol. Even the use of stabil doesn't help much.
Cite please.
Part of the pump assembly contains a sealed up electric motor that uses the fuel around it as an external source of coolant. IE: takes heat away from it. As a result, the electric motor lasts longer. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize electric motors and heat don't go well together over time.
Ethanol also eats away the plastic tubing found on the fuel pump, if the fuel pump is pre-ethanol days.
Don't you ever read the news? I've seen at least three reports and a bunch more it you Google it.
Yeah, current stuff from 2013... My take is 3 out of how many? Age demographics. No carbon monoxide detectors. How many of keyed ignitions vs keyless? Do you have one of these vehicles? It's called accidental or suicide for a reason. Can't account for everything.
It also means that as the fuel level drops the engine will starve and stop running. This was also debunked by a pump manufacturer as seen on MotorWeek on TV.
There has been at least 18 deaths so far. My car will make a sound if you close the door with fob in your pocket out of the car and car running. Some people leave their keys in the car all the time.
My last 3 cars have been keyless and I've survinved
No need, it's Darwin at work...
It is true that "Part of the pump assembly c "I don't like to run any of my vehicles that low on gas for any length of time..."
Well. obviously, you can't run them very long because you'll run out of gas, but that's not my point.
What is your definition of "low"? Do you know at what level of fuel the cooling ability is reduced to such an extent that it is damaging the pump? Sure, a full tank can theoretically absorb more heat from the pump than a 1/4 tank, but does that amount of reduction make a difference? Does damage start to occur at 1/8 tank? 1/16?
What about the ambient temperature of the fuel? Should you always run at least a half tank in the summer but a half gallon is enough in the winter?
My point is that unless you know what is considered "low" for your brand of pump in your specific gas tank, your statement that "electric motors and heat don't go well together over time" may well be true but may also not be relevant in this situation.
Tank mounted fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel, and at least on some of the earlier ones, running low on fuel was blamed for shortening the life of the pumps.
Ethanol is sorta half OK when it's warm, but the amount of water it cam hold in suspension drops precipitously when it cools off, which can dump the water into the bottom of the tank all at once when it cools down. Called Phase separation, or Dropout. Go to start the cold vehicle and the engine gets a slug of water into the pump p- and the injectors.
SOME boats are ok with E10 - others are definitely not. Depends what the tanks are made of, what lines are used, etc.
I won't look it up for you, but there were several cases this last winter blamed on the car not being shut off in the garage.
No, it won't. The pickup is towards the bottom of the tank. Your engine might die if the pickup can't get the last drop, but, since it's a pressurized system these days, that shouldn't happen.
No coolant, sealed electric motor. No way to cool off, runs hotter. Over time, causing winding insulation failure. As a result, weaker motor. As a result, weaker fuel delivery. Over time, engine may continue to start and idle, but, it won't keep running if you try to put it under load, because the fuel pressure required to do it is no longer available. You may also notice 'hard starts' as the fuel pump gets weaker, but, otherwise, your vehicle for the most part, acts normally.
You may also notice lag/hesitation when you get on the gas going down the road and wrongly assume you just have bad gas. If you can rule out the bad gas and other electrical/fuel mixture issues (sensors, etc) you have the first signs of a fuel pump going down on you.
Eventually leading up to a bastard of a time starting it, idling semi fine/fine, yet, won't continue running if placed under load. At this point, fuel pump is almost shot, outright. It'll get worse to the point where your ride won't even have enough pressure delivery to start it. If it's not made for ethanol, you've probably got holes in the tubes on the fuel pump assembly as ethanol loves to eat plastic. If it is, you've weakened the sealed electric motor to the point where it can no longer provide adequate fuel pressure to feed your engines demands.
Been there, done that.
Running them out of gas is another issue your creating for yourself, yes. Your modern fuel injection system really doesn't like it. So, if you do fuckup and do this, once you put gas in the car again, don't try to start it right away. Turn the key to on and back off several times, but, don't try to start the engine just yet. Repeat cycle a few times first, put gas back into the rest of the fuel system (pushing out the air you pumped into it when you ran it bone dry), then crank the motor over. She'll start right up, first try, usually.
If you just put gas in it, you might notice, it requires several cranks, and/or you have to lay on the starter for a bit to get it to fire. Why be hard on your starter and battery? Be gentle, lasts longer this way.
It depends entirely on tank manufacturer. Sadly. So I can't answer your question that covers every scenario here. So, for me, when I see the bugger heading towards the bottom, say 1/4th or so, I refuel it. Btw, depending on fuel tank manufacturer, it held more prior to reaching the halfway mark on your gauge. Due to the design of the tank. I know, this sounds crazy to you, but, feel free to fact check me with your favorite search engine.
A half gallon on most vehicles I've seen isn't submerging the fuel pump, it's barely submerging the pickup module (if even that). Lucky for people these days though, it's a pressurized fuel system, so you can still run and won't have to do the wiggle jiggle with the steering to help the pickup module get more gas. You know, when you were running out of gas on the older ones. :)
But, it's always a bad idea to run so low, for the reason stated already. You're hurting the electrical motor that drives the fuel pump. It's not getting any help at this point to cool it off. It prefers to be taking a swim, if you catch my drift.
Nothing to do with brand of pump. Everything to do with fuel level inside said tank. Submerged pump is a happy pump. Even a partially submerged one is keeping cooler than one that isn't.
Use a search engine for 'key fob'. They have a start/stop button. No key. Although, some actually do have a place for a real key (usually under the dash) in the event the battery in your key fob is dead OR, you misplaced the damn thing.
Thank you, Clare.
I know that now. :-)
It would be possible if the engine shuts down automatically when the transmission is in Park, and restarts when put into gear. I have herd of that.
I'd still expect some kind of key so someone else doesn't take your car. A key could be a combination, RF device, of even biometric.
So it's a matter of differing definitions of "real". I'd consider the fob to be a key. Different from an old physical key, but just as real. The same for some people with an implanted chip. That's a key too.
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