I've got a red car that has developed an unusual dull bloom in the
paintwork on its roof and bonnet. I managed to cure the bonnet by
rubbing the hell out of it with Auto-Glym and then polishing it to
death - by hand. Auto-Glym was the only polishing compound that worked
properly. Other stuff like T-Cut appeared to work, but then whitish
streaks would appear after a day or so - no matter how hard I polished
it. Waxing didn't help.
I now want to tackle the roof, but I want to avoid as much of that
hard work as possible. Would it pay me to buy an electric car
polishing tool, such as http://tinyurl.com/pha83 ? Or will an
electric drill with a buffing wheel attached do just as well? If so,
does anyone know where I can buy the buffing wheel or polishing
attachments at a reasonable price?
Or would I be wiser to just let a local body shop do it for me? Anyone
know what would be a fair price to pay?
From the sounds of it your better off finding a local paint shop that will
do a mop for you. Then you can just polish and wax every few months to keep
the finish. Alternatively invest a few hundred in a porta cable polisher,
some bonnets and a basic 3 stage cut, polish, wax.
You can polish a car yourself, but you need something along the lines of the
right tools. Bare minimum is a proper polisher (looks like an angle grinder,
speed tops out at 3000rpm and is variable - the sort you linked to is
shite), and some Farecla G3. You can fit a proper foam polishing mop to a
drill, but it's not really at the right angle (or speed) to be easy to use
on car bodywork. Porter cable are reputed to be the best (AFAIK they have a
similar action to a DA sander to avoid swirl marks), but most body shops use
the bog standard basic type of polisher because a) that's what everyone else
uses and b) most people don't notice or care about the swirl marks left by
polishing. Hence Autoglym etc. selling well - if you polish a dark coloured
car with something like AG Super Resin, it will look like a sack of shit.
I've gone through how this stuff done before in the uk.rec.cars.* groups if
you want to have a google.
There's not much point in random orbital action if you're using a mop.
They're only of value if you're either sanding, or you're using
something like Micromesh which is fairly stiff. If you've got a thick
layer of foam or a lambswool bonnet on it, it'll just swallow up the
movement of an orbital. For all practical purposes, just stick with a
A cheap lightweight power drill isn't a bad substitute, so long as it
has a side handle on it for control and you're careful not to dig the
edge of the pad in.
You need to look at sommat like this.
I got a similar one, a jar of G3, make sure the sponge is wet when you
apply or it will "burn" the paint. It's a messy job as the compund
spins off on startup so dont wear your best clothes!! once you have
done the mopping seal it with stage 2 and stage 3 Mcguiars (halfords do
em) and if you want a top protective shine do an ebay for diamondbrite
two pack, they are ridiculously cheap on ebay! its a trade polish
mostly used for preparing new cars, thats why they look well shiny (
not just the new paint!).
You will be pleasantly surprised with the results you will get from
doing it, and you'll have the kit should you require it again. Set
yourself a good 5-6 hours to do it right.
Don't know why it does it on certain red cars but it does. My mate had a
red Mitsubishi Colt that went 'pink'. I had a red Honda Civic same year
etc, that has stayed red. We live within 5 miles of each other so sun,
climate, etc are the same. He had his 't-cutted' at a local garage and sold
it on. He saw 'his' car a few weeks ago and it was going pink again. I
don't think there is a long term solution to the problem, if you keep
polishing you will soon get down to the undercoat.
Red cars are more prone to the paint degrading in general. When you
think about it, it makes sense - paint works by absorbing the unwanted
wavelengths which in the case of red means absorbing all the high-energy
photons from the blue end of the scale. Blue paint only has to contend
with the much lower energy reddish end.
You can see this in old posters - they're usually blue tinged where the
reds have faded, likewise with litter in the bottoms of hedges - if it's
been there in the sun for a while it'll often only have the blue
From this you might think that black paint would be worst of all, but it
cheats and uses completely different pigments.
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
Some manufacturers use a lacquer coat on their fade prone solid
colours. That may have made a difference. And just washing more
regularly with a wax added shampoo will help.
Had a 12 year old red Peugeot 306 in the family which was sold
recently. The paintwork was as new with no special treatment.
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