Another car related question for you home repair experts. I plan to
fix this at home so it's semi-on topic.
2004 Toyota Camry. The driver window recently got replaced after being
smashed while we were out of state. There was damage to the track as
well so I thought that was causing the problem, but the track has been
repaired recently and it's still doing it.
This window has auto up and auto down switch. Auto down takes the
window all the way down. Auto up takes the window all the way up, but
when it gets to the top of it's travel it automatically reverses and
comes back down halfway. This is some sort of safety and jam
The mirror had been pushed back toward the window and the bracket
holding the mirror was bent and impinging on the track. I straightened
it out as much as I could and the local body shop fixed the rest. I
thought that would fix the window problem but it hasn't.
I have tried resetting the motor limits according to some instructions
I found on the internet by holding the switch down a few seconds after
it reaches the bottom and a few seconds after it reaches the top. That
hasn't fixed the problem. I can carefully make the window close by
moving the switch incrementally until it reaches the top.
Obviously this isn't going to work long term. Does anyone have a
suggestion on how to fix this? No, I can't take it back to the window
people because they are 700 miles away.
If the track is still (slightly) "out of kilter" (hmm... I've never heard
anyone say something is *in* kilter!), there will be added drag on the window
which is, ultimately, reflected as an increased load to the motor....
I suspect the drive electronics sense the load on the motor by measuring the
current through the windings (though there are other ways of detecting a
stall). So, when the window encounters an "obstacle" (e.g., someone's
arm/hand left in the window as it closes), it stops before inflicting
harm. It wouldn't make much sense to *simply* stop as that would leave
the window clamping down on the object. So, it backs off, "open loop"
(i.e., probably just runs the motor for N seconds and then stops it).
If the track is effectively damaged (though not visibly) and the load
reflected to the motor during normal operation is increased, it may
be that the smarts don't have enough "dynamic range" left in the
measurement to differentiate normal "closed" vs. "obstacle encountered"
vs. out of kilter track.
If you could remove an interior door panel and tweek the track a bit
to observe the results (i.e., the track can be repositioned as if the
window was a tiny bit larger and, thus, a looser fit) it would be
helpful to diagnosing the actual problem.
Note that you typically have to follow these procedures to the letter!
In order not to have a special "calibrate button" or special test
equipment, the procedures are designed to utilize the existing controls
but in ways that won't typically be "tickled" in normal use. The thinking
is that you can inconvenience a dealer/shop a little for an *infrequent*
adjustment activity but don't want to risk confusing the user by
having the car start behaving differently as a consequence of some
"normal" usage pattern.
[Like pressing a SHIFT key 5 times in windows to activate an accessibility
feature -- the assumption is that a user will press and hold shift while
typing some other key... not just press and release SHIFT all by itself!]
I.e., hold the button "down" while the window is opening and continue to
hold it down after it hits bottom. Then, hold the button *up* while it
is closing and continue to hold it up after it has fully closed.
Does it close completely *while* you are holding it thusly? Or, does
it sense an obstruction and reopen? I.e., if it does NOT reopen, then
at least for this time, it operated properly! So, if it fails to
continue to operate properly afterwards, then you've not successfully
completed the "retraining".
Press the button down momentarily (long enough to start the "please
open my window all the way" action). After it has opened, do the
same to close the window ("please CLOSE my window all the way").
*Then*, see if it behaves properly. If not, you may have to repeat the
process for *all* windows (and, possibly, in a specific sequence).
[Note that I have no idea what Toyota's specific "reset procedure" is.
Rather, I'm commenting on a "power window controller" that a friend
was contracted to design for "another" Toyota brand :> many years ago.]
On Wednesday, November 11, 2015 at 2:27:34 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
You can typically hear the motor sound change as it hits resistance.
I'd listen to the motor as it moves along the track. Then listen to
the working windows. With the door off, he could also disconnect
the window from the mechanism and raise/lower it by hand to see where
and if it's binding.
1 Take it back and have them fix it correctly.
2 Adjust the up limit switch
3 Check for debris in the tack, glass shards & pebbles.
4 Put some car wax in the track, It may not solve your problem but it has
Okay, I got it fixed today. I followed the instructions from this
Basically I had to take out the regulator and motor. Then I had to
remove the motor from the regulator and run the motor in the up
position for five seconds and remove power abruptly by pulling the
connector off. Then I put everything in the door back together and ran
the window up and down manually to the physical limits three times
without using the auto function. Then I used the auto function and
everything worked properly!
The instructions in the video are very good and they gave me the
confidence to attempt this on my own. I guess the motor was out of
sync with the regulator somehow and by running it while removed from
the regulator that took it past the remembered limits. Moving it up
and down three times set the limits again.
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