WOW. From now on when I go on a plane, I'm going to look to see what kind
of system they use. I really don't think I've seen a lock washer yet. Most
of the stuff I see has plastic push fasteners. I must be dense as a rock.
I thought they would use all sorts of fasteners depending on the
application. Now to find out they use only a few. Oh, dopey me.
Well maybe you should look at what is used on aircraft instead making
assumptions. While there are mil-spec lock washers that were used on
some aircraft, they are never used in an area where safety could be
compromised by them coming loose. In safety critical areas, either
castle nuts and cotter pins are used or safety wire is used. Nylon
insert nuts are now the preferred choice in all instances where castle
nuts and/or safety wired is not required. My own feeling is that if
it is important enough to need a lock washer, it is important enough
to use a high quality nylon locking nut.
If however you are talking about holding pieces of plastic together
for cosmetic panels, you can use all the plastic push fastners you
On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.
I'm the OP and I would think a Harbor Freight trailer is even more
cheaply made than most of Home Depot stuff. And on the box the
trailer came in, it says Made in China.
I hope my axle doesn't fall off!!
They also say no more than 55 MPH. Can I take that to mean no more
It won't blow apart at 56. or with 993 pounds in it. But if
it does, it's your ass, not theirs.
FWIW- mine has about 2 years and 5000 miles on it. Once I did some
really bad math in my head and put 4000 pounds of cement blocks in it.
I'm glad I only had 5 miles to go as it pulled like a wet rug--- but
it didn't bend anything.
Recently I made 16 trips of 80 miles one way. Empty one way- about
1000 pounds of pavers on the return. 65 miles an hour for most of
the trip. I watched the bearings closely for the first 3 trips- but
it was up to the job.
Use *good* wheel bearing grease. Check it often. [I haven't had
any luck finding 'bearing buddy' caps that fit the Harbor Freight
trailer] I've checked the bolts a couple times. Haven't found a
loose one yet.
If it trails properly, you can probably push it a little beyond the 55
mph. It will probably do better when loaded than empty. An empty
trailer can easily start to wag back and forth or start a serious
bounce. I had that happen with an auto hauler trailer once (doing
less than 55) and it ripped the ball off the hitch. (Thank heaven for
a good safety chain.)
PS: Not everything made in China is crap. I bought a tile saw made
in China from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago and it has been a
I used to use one of those "little red trailers" - the foldable style
of the type sold at HF, although mine came from K-Mart. Many of the
nuts on the trailer were nylocks, which made it pain to assemble, but
it held up for a long time.
I'd load it with 500 - 600 pounds stacked 6 feet high and towed it for
hours at (at least) 65 MPH on a regular basis. Never had an issue.
Kept the tires properly inflated and repacked the wheel bearings once
a year, typically before the spring race season.
I eventually got an enclosed trailer and sold the open one, with
homemade side walls, for $25 more than I bought it for, after 4 years
and thousands of miles.
We use nylon insert nuts torqued to up to 168 inch pounds and loosen
and tighten them on fairly regular basis. It takes many, many cycles
before we can't tighten them anymore. On the other hand, we've had
some that can't be torqued even once, but that's very rare.
There is so much help here from many of you, rather than several
replies, I'm going to thank everyone here -- Thank you -- and followup
I'm very encouraged about the nylon inserts. My one concern still is
that somehow they use a different kind of nylon in China that won't
work as well?
As it turns out, I bought the trailer 15 months ago and had it shipped
to my brother. The instructions didn't show lock washers for any of
the bolts I'd gotten to when I posted, but yesterday I got to the 4
square U-bolts that hold on the axle and the instructions said they
used lock washers. But none were enclosed.
I had downloaded the instructoins from Harbor Freight, and they have
changed them in the last 15 months and the new instructions show NO
lock washers. Surely this isn't to save money, so they must think
it's as good or better. Yet after reading all your posts, I'm still
going to use them under those 8 nuts, because it seems like it can't
make it worse. ??
FTR, my instructions showed a mixture of English and metric bolts, but
the only bolts enclosed were metric. The new online instructions now
correct some slight mistakes and also match the bolts etc. that they
enclosed, except that neither mention that I need a grease or a grease
There is some grease on the bearings, but after I put the hub and
bearing on the axle, am I supposed to use the grease fitting to fill
the whole chamber with wheel bearing grease? All it says it to fill
the cap at the end with grease.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.