Looking for recommendations for 9 volt NiMh batteries.
EBL has one they claim has a 600 mah capacity.
What about Tenergy's 200 mah battery ?
Especially interested to hear from those who have used these.
I have no experience, but I'm interested.
The Tenergy seems to have been on the market longer.
The 600 mah EBL is li-ion. EBL's 9 V NiMH is 280 mah.
When I'm checking a product out, I like to read the good reviews and the
bad reviews at Amazon.
Pay close attention to the voltage specs.
Most NiCd/NiMH 9V aren't.
I have an Energizer that's 7.2V
and an Empl that's 8.4V.
You'll have to check the spec on the lithium.
But the voltage will vary over the 4.2V-3.5V per cell or so
unless it's one of the newer lower voltage lithium poly ones.
And how would you charge it?
I've had lousy luck with rechargeable 9V. Self discharge
runs 'em down before I get any use out of the device.
Good news is that some devices really don't need 9V.
I have a radio shack multimeter in which I replaced the 9V
with three AAA NiCds and it works fine. If I used it a lot,
I'd put low self-discharge cells in it.
Been using the Tenergy's NiMH 9V 200mAH batteries and their higher capacity
9V lithium batteries, the former for over a year in smoke detectors and
other devices with no problems. Well made, no bulging like other 9V NiMH's
I have used and sturdy battery snaps. White color with enough room to write
date of acquisition and date of charge on the battery case, too.
They are a far cry from the very crappy 9V rechargeables I've used
(apparently Micky, too) over the years that always oozed greenish goo at the
terminals after a short while and would rarely ever charge back up to full
voltage after just a few uses. I was reluctant to even try them but 9V
alkalines are getting incredibly expensive and I have had very good luck
with their AA, AAA and Roomba batteries.
One important difference is that although the lithium models are much higher
capacity (500mAH if IIRC) they top out at 8.4 volts and that's low enough to
make some devices unhappy - i.e. they'll complain of low voltage.
I was very skeptical at first because of bad experience with even name brand
rechargeable 9V NiMH (including Eveready) but these are holding up well.
Especially nice for smokes and for meters without auto shut-offs and my
advancing senility which means I often forget to turn them off. (-:
Now my smoke detectors can be replaced with freshly charged batteries every
6 months without me ending up taking out batteries that may have a year left
on them just to be sure they'll last. All batteries still had good voltage
after six months and I left one in without recharging to see if it can make
it a year. We'll know soon as the DST change is approaching. That's when I
will replace all the alkalines with either the NiMH or lithium 9V batteries.
Bought two different chargers - a four-banger with separate power supply and
individual LEDs and a two bay model with folding plug and with one LED for
the two batteries (less nice). I did that because I wasn't sure the old
charger was suitable for the lithium units (and still am not sure).
The sheet that came with the two bay models says it's good for lithium and
NiMH 9V so I use the old charger for the 200mAH NiMHs and the 2 bay unit for
the lithiums, just to be safe. Takes about 8 hours to charge the 500mAH
lithiums, so it's clearly a slow charger (which is just fine with me
considering they're lithium cells that can burn very hot if overcharged).
Tenergy alleges full capacity takes several charge cycles. I saw no
increase from the 8.4V on the lithium cells and very little different in
capacity (I used a little snap on LED flasher to drain them and set them up
in front of a CCTV camera so I could precisely time how long they took to
discharge by reviewing the recording.)
If you're interested I'll look up the exact model numbers.
To answer your question succinctly, I am very satisfied having used the NiMH
Tenergy models for over a year. The lithiums are new additions and I've
only had them for a few months, but so far, so good. The 500mAH capacity is
great for things that can benefit from extended run time and I'll bet that
like most lithium cells, they'll hold their charge far longer than the NiMH
FWIW, I use dozens (maybe hundreds) of Tenergy AA and AAA LSD cells and have
been very happy with their performance. I just got incredibly tired of
leaking alkalines. Never had a Tenergy cell leak and they seem pretty
resistant to complete discharge (although I have to recondition them if they
show up as 0 volts in my LaCrosse charger).
NB that I use the charger in the slow charge mode since that seems to just
about double the overall battery life compared to my Sanyo quick charger
that leaves them almost too hot too touch but charges them in under two
hours. The only thing I use that for now is to restore a 0 volt battery
enough for the LaCrosse to see it and recondition it (about 5 minutes). The
LaCrosse won't do anything to a battery that reads "null." It treats the TD
battery that's been charged for five minutes as FULL but a run test
indicates it's not. However a recharge cycle or two on the LaCrosse brings
it back to life. Not sure what that implies, just noting it for the record.
I have two different MP3 players that take single AA and AAA cells and they
make great battery capacity testers. I set them in the continuous replay
mode and then record the output to Cooledit on an old tablet PC with a
mini-stereo patch cord. I get a visual graph showing exactly how long they
played to the second. Since the MP3 players are really old models, they
have inefficient chips that drain the batteries fairly quickly so the tests
run fairly quickly. Sometimes old is good!
I've found that when AA and AAA LSD cells start showing a charged voltage
higher than 1.35V, they are heading for the great battery box in the sky. I
also mark any battery that has fully discharged with a red Sharpie so that I
don't use it again in anything critical. That's because with other NiMH
batteries like Maha and Powerex, total discharge is the kiss of death. I am
surprised the Tenergy cells recover so nicely from a TD.
No financial interest, just a satisfied customer who buys them from the
Battery Superstore via Amazon. Reasonable and fast shipping, too.
On Friday, October 10, 2014 8:41:42 PM UTC-4, Andy wrote:
I've been using the Tenergy Centura (low self discharge) 9V batteries in my
Fluke meters with good results. They are actually 8.4V but don't seem to
cause any issues. I am using them with a Maha MH-C490F charger. I picked
that charger because it is listed as a "smart charger" with delta-V termina
tion and also it is listed by the manufacturer to be able to charge all thr
ee common types of NiMH "9V" batteries (7.2V, 8.4V or 9.6V, depending on th
e actual number of NiMH cells used inside. A traditional 9V carbon-zinc or
alkaline battery will actually have six 1.5V AAAA cells inside, whereas a
NiMH cell is 1.2V nominal hence the voltages listed above.)
Maha themselves do make 9.6V batteries both normal and LSD ("Imedion") if y
ou find a device that doesn't work well on the 8.4V batteries however the T
energy seemed to be a better price/quality balance after some online resear
ch when I bought them, and they've been working well for me so far. In fac
t for my occasional use they haven't even needed a recharge yet. I'm also
using a Tenergy Centura D cell in my Simpson 260 (7m) in addition to a Cent
ura "9V" and that is working well also. I was worried that due to the Simp
son being a rather simple meter that the voltage difference would cause iss
ues but it has not.
I test the amps of alkaline batteries because a perfectly good battery
may have much less than the nominal open-cell voltage. In the past, my
problems with rechargeables have come when the voltage under load fell
below 1.2. A few charge-discharge cycles may improve that.
The Simpson 260 shouldn't be fussy about D-cell voltage. The
ohms-adjust compensates for differences. I think the D cell is only for
Based on your experience, I may start using NiMH 9V batteries.
have lower internal resistance than alkalines,
so the 1.2V nominal voltage may be less of a
drawback relative to alkalines as load increases.
I went to the fire dept open house today. Decided
to take some pictures. Sadly, the AA NIMH only
lasted a dozen or so pics, and no flash. Swap em
out with the ones in my mini mag, also no joy.
Time for some new cells. I had some older alkaline
batteries in my other pocket, but they only lasted
a few frames. Can't win.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 3:23:54 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I had the same issue with a cheap Nikon digicam years back. I could put a
fresh set of NiMH in it and get off maybe 6-7 shots, less if I used flash,
before it "died." The cells still had plenty of charge, but the camera wou
ld recognize the cells as "dead." I even tried using Nikon-branded cells i
nstead of whatever NiMH I was using at the time (I hadn't yet discovered En
eloops) but still no dice. Oddly the camera actually had a setting in the
menu for NiMH vs. alkaline cells so apparently Nikon expected me to use the
m. Unfortunately Nikon CS seemed spectacularly uninterested in the issue,
so it was never satisfactorily resolved - I used Energizer Lithiums in it u
ntil it became obsolete (by the fact that eventually your average cell phon
e contained a better camera than that unit) and I stopped using it.
The really odd thing is that I've used Eneloops in tons of devices *not* sp
ecifically designed for them with no issue whatsoever. Just that one camer
a wasn't happy.
A new AA might show 5 amps or more. 3 amps may work in many devices. 1
amp is low. Internal resistance increases as an alkaline battery is
used up. Assuming an open circuit voltage of 1.5 V,
5 amps would mean about 3/10 ohms of internal resistance.
3 amps would mean 5/10 ohm.
1 amp would mean 1.5 ohm.
Energizer says a brief short is harmless. If I'm checking an assortment
of AA's, surge current is a quick way to tell which ones to discard.
Open-circuit voltage doesn't seem to work as well.
I also use current to check 9 V batteries, but I don't do it enough to
remember what a new one should produce. I just check a suspect battery
against a new one.
I might do some testing, here. Yesterday I was out
of the house, and wanted to take some pictures
with my digicam. The NiMH I had in would take one
or two, and then shut down. Swapped with the set
in my mini mag, and they did much the same. I had
a four pack of older alkaline cells, for jut that
reason. Seven or so years old. And they did much
Home, tried some fresh charged NiMH which worked fine.
I have some Energizer Lithium, might put those in my
jacket pocket instead.
Only one fire department open house a year, and I got
a couple pictures. Got some last year and they did
much the same activities. This year, I got to squirt
the hose, and use a dry chem extinguisher. Actually
put out the fire, last year I did not put it out.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
Here are charts showing how fast the voltage of alkaline cells drops
under loads. I hadn't heard of the Energizer Titanium. (E2 is lithium.)
Years ago, I found that a pair of AA NiCds would power a krypton bulb,
drawing nearly an amp, better than alkalines. In those days, NiMH
wouldn't supply that kind of power as reliably as NiCd, it seemed to me.
To avoid shorting rechargeables, I use a battery holder with a 1-ohm
resistor. After about 300mah, an Eneloop is down to about 1.25 V, and
it stays up around there through most of its discharge. I like that!
Thank you, may have seen that page before.
I did some deadshort tests on AA cells, averaging
1.2 to 1.3 amps, some were under 1.0. I didn't get
the wide range of values I'd expected.
Might need to replace my LSD NiMH cells that I use
for camera and mini mag. They have been in service
a couple years. I also changed to carrying lithium
AA in my jacket pocket as backups. The older Maxell
alkalines didn't do the job.
Like the sound of those Enelopps, they might be my
<The really odd thing is that I've used Eneloops in tons of devices *not*
specifically designed for them with no issue whatsoever. Just that one
camera wasn't happy.>
Almost all of the Nikon Prosumer cameras of that era wouldn't work well with
rechargeables. They apparently set the "low battery" cut-off voltage way
The Coolpix 2000 would at least take a rechargeable lithium pack but the 950
through 990 models wouldn't and worse, still, had crappy battery doors with
plastic tabs that failed on every single camera I've seen (and I bought a
lot of them used on Ebay). Every stinking one including a NIB one that I
bought. Opened it up, loaded AA alkalines and POP. The tabs failed. Not
only that, but the high cap NiMH batteries of that era wouldn't fit because
the battery slots weren't large enough to accept the slightly oversized (in
diameter) cells like the 2300mAH Mahas.
Great auto-white balance, even under mixed lighting, a swivel head and
superb macro capabilities but an Achilles heel that made them worthless for
using away from a power supply. Eventually I found a lithium ion
rechargeable pack that attached via the tripod screw and fed in through the
DC in port, but it was a kludge.
Because it's so good at closeups I keep a Coolpix 950 on my workbench to
track projects as I disassemble things but it's hooked to an AC power supply
plugged into a UPS. Just one second power blips reset the time and date.
It's really, really sad that they made such a great camera with such a fatal
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.