I've replaced several valves (standard shutoff) over the years, the ones you
turn several times, to open/close. There may be proper name for them, but I
do not know.
It seems to be hit/miss proposition for me. Some of them leak at the shaft,
I suspect the reason is that the rubber gasket gets cooked during the
heating process. Many valves have a rubber parts in two places, one where
they close the flow and another around the shaft.
How do you guys manage to get the valve installed without overheating the
rubber parts inside? Any tricks?
Remove the stem and handle before you apply the heat and replace them after the faucet cools down.
| Hi All,
| I've replaced several valves (standard shutoff) over the years, the ones you
| turn several times, to open/close. There may be proper name for them, but I
| do not know.
| It seems to be hit/miss proposition for me. Some of them leak at the shaft,
| after installing.
| I suspect the reason is that the rubber gasket gets cooked during the
| heating process. Many valves have a rubber parts in two places, one where
| they close the flow and another around the shaft.
| How do you guys manage to get the valve installed without overheating the
| rubber parts inside? Any tricks?
remove the handle stem then sweat. then reinstall after its cool, this
mahes it easier to get it hot enough, so bbetter seal.
be certain to clean all parts, flux all parts. then heat the part not
the solder. heating the valve body rather than the pipe helps suck the
soder into the joint
you using ball valves? those you sweat threaded fittings on the pipe
then they thread onto the valve using teflon tape.
ball valves are the best, they never corrode, leak, or get stiff. a
quarter turn by pushing the lever turns the water off fast in a
emergency. they never obstruct the flow, since open is completely open/
eventually i will have all ball valves here, anytime one is changed or
replaced thats all i install
A few years back I had a fair bit of plumbing replaced. The plumber used
all ball valves, mostly Apollo with a few Watts. Most of these valves
have failed. The most common failure is that the valves no longer fully
shut off the flow of water. One leaked at the seam where the end cap fits
into the case and another developed a pinhole leak in the casting itself.
Now obviously this last problem could have happened with any style valve,
but the other issues are really annoying because there is no way to repair
these ball valves in place. For the valve that controls water to the
sprinkler system it goes beyond annoying since it really needs to be off
in the winter. (As it turns out there is a second valve--very hard to get
to at the end of a crawlspace--that in conjunction with the main valve seems
to shut the sprinkler off "well enough.")
The water in my city can be pretty bad. Especially when they are "flushing
the system" we get substantial hard particle content. My theory is that some
of these particles get trapped in the valve and then score the Teflon seal
the next time the valve is closed. Or not. In any case, I now specify
gate or globe valves exclusively, and I get a few spares so I can swap the
whole stem assembly if necessary.
get a bucket of water and a couple of rags.Wrap a wet rag around the stem
and solder as usual...then apply other wet rags to cool the rest of the
valve.BE CAREFUL as the reags will make steam when you apply them the the
hot valve...wear gloves.
plumbers.pipefitters,service technicians local 72
card number 1465687
That, and open the valve first. I've only done a couple but they have been
Or, dare I say it, glue. I have used epoxy on a few joints I didn't want to
heat, and have recently purchased a CA glue, but haven't tried it yet. (the
epoxy worked fine, but has a lousy shelf life.)
Ball valves have a small layer of teflon (I believe) coating between the
actual ball and the valve housing to acomodate the tight fit of the ball in
the valve. I've never had a problem though with that "melting" when
applying heat (Always make sure the valve is open though when applying
I perfer the ball valves over gate valves simply for the reason that you can
tell if the valve is open or closed from across the room.
Then you've never lived in a house that is supplied via a point with hard
I just got through replacing several gate valves on my heating system
because they were corroded. They would not turn off without much force
(they probably had not been closed in a decade or so) and once I got the
stem to turn they leaked. I pulled the stem and the bottom part of the gate
was just compleatly gone (and of course the valves were so old that the
stems that I have for replacement wouldn't fit so it was just as easy to
replace the whole valve). Had to replace valve after valve as I "walked"
down the line trying to get the water turned off to fix the original problem
(faulty corroded blow off valve on the burner).
Hard water will corrode anything over time.
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