I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
No one but a person on the site can tell if there is any play in the line.
You can use a "repair" coupling in conjunction with a short piece of pipe
and your valve to add play to a line where there is none. Repair couplings
are bigger than normal and do not have a stop so they can slide over the
pipe and then return to the proper position. Pencil marks on the cleaned
copper can help with the alignment.
Unions work also.
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We can't see your basement from here. It may or may not have enough
flex, depending on how long the run is, how pipe is fastened or wedged,
and how long the runs are past the first elbow in each direction. Grab
the pipe and try to move it, before you cut. Copper is generally more
forgiving than old galvanized would be, but there is still a slight risk
of causing problems elsewhere anytime you flex old pipe runs. Eyeball
the whole run with a flashlight and your fingers, looking for green
spots and such that can indicate minute leaks and weak spots.
I need to do the same thing in my basement, to add a tee for the
icemaker, to replace the vampire tap valve that I am scared to touch.
One of these days....
Beauty of copper is the options it gives you. Cut it where it works best
you. Sometimes Ill even take out to a 90 if ones close (solves the flex
I agree with using repair couplings if needed (I never have one when I
need it). If I can I like to sweat the valve on my pipe sections at the
truck and then sweat the pipe section in w/the valve on it at the couplers
or fittings as they sweat fast and easy in close quarters and valves dont.
Mainly with new guys I notice a tendency to think small and cramped when
for a few extra feet of pipe they can work out in the open. Keep in mind
you have to get the torch
in there to
quick answer - "it depends."
You can buy sweat fittings without dimples in the middle so they can be
slipped completely over a pipe. if you find your pipes are constrained,
this is what they're used for - make a cut in the pipe, brighten it up,
then you can just butt the cut ends together and slide the fitting over
the cut and sweat as usual.
I'd buy a short length of 3/4" pipe just to reduce prep time, then you
only have to really clean up two cut ends instead of four.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Solder a stub of copper pipe in each end of the valve first. Then you
don't need any play at all to solder the assembly in place using "repair
couplings". (just a normal coupling without a stop in the middle -- be
careful to center it)
Maybe, every situation is different. Generally the more length in the
pipe, the greater the flex. You may get more leeway removing a
support, etc. My last resort is using a sleave coupling, but it is an
option often used in tight places.
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