Name of fitting?

[Ignoramus27451]

Thanks. I hope that I may be able to accomplish what I want by using

1/4" compressor fittings and soft washers. I already got that stuff, and also ball valves. It will hopefully be a nice setup. I will post photos once I am done. i

[John Ingram]

would you be looking for a bulkhead fitting perhaps? or would one work

[Camilo]

I tend to accomplish these sort of projects by going to my "best/favorite" hardware store (NOT home depot) or plumbing store and either looking and thinking or asking if there's someone there who might have some imagination.

From your description this how I'd start:

Find an appropriate size of threaded brass or stainless tubing (obviously hollow!). If this critter didn't exist, you could probably get some custom made pretty cheaply. I've also found some on-line sources with "EVERYTHING" you can imagine in stainless and brass. Cut to proper length.

Find an appropriate size and material gasket / washer for both sides as well as a couple of nuts, preferably locking (probably metal locking as opposed to nylock), for both sides. You obviously need a fuel-proof gasket/washer, but I'd think they'd be readily available. Drill hole, put tubing through hole, and srew nuts and washers on both sides.

Now you have a sealed "through-can" fitting with threads on both sides.

If you're doing sporadic, low pressure work through this fitting, I would think that simply attaching the fuel line with hose clamps would be fine.

Alternatively you'd find a barbed hose fitting with a female threaded end that would screw directly onto your threaded fitting.

I do know that barbed hose fittings with male threads on one end are common - with many options for size of barbed and threads. You'd then need a a threaded barrel connector or adapter - two female threaded ends, one side threads to barbed fitting, the other to your threaded thorough-can fitting. It could be the threads are the same size, maybe not, but there are many such brass adapters in the plumbing section.

If you only needed the fuel hose to connect on one side of the can (e.g. either inside or outside), the easiest way would be to get the right size barbed fitting with threaded end, drill the hole and attach it through the hole with nuts /washers on both sides.

That's just my initial offering. I'd also ask at an autoparts store (fuel line through bulk head applications), marine store (same). There may be this exact application somewhere in those two lines.

[Camilo]

"Ignoramus5751"

Could you adapt a boat gas can to this - they have the fuel pick up already in place and I know from experience the external fittings will accept commonly available barbed fuel line fittings, just a matter of buying the barbed fitting (probably at the same store you buy the tank) and screwing it into place.

Example of tank

Here's a diesel conversion kit they sell at West Marine. Looks like it converts a marine gasoline can to diesel use w/ return?

Example of barbed fitting which you'd use on the fuel tank and to make a return (see below). If url doesn't work, go to and search for "fuel hose barbs". But these are available in most good hardware and /or boat shops.

Portable gas tanks are very cheap and available in any size you want from

2.5 gal to 10, 12, 20, etc.. I would say, cheap enough so that they are cheaper than messing around and driving around trying to figure out how to adapt a gerry can.

The portable gas tank will get your fuel easily to the generator. For the return, just take another of the same barbed fuel fitting and attach it through a drilled hole in the gas can, with a nut and washer inside and out.

Good luck please tell us final solution!

Camilo

[Ignoramus11573]

Thanks for your good ideas. I read your post after I finished my work. I want to thank everyone for their input. With a bit of metalworking, I arrived at the final solution.

I made a diesel fuel tank out of a military USMC Blitz Jerry can;

See

Normally, this fuel container would be closed by another jerry can cap, and I would use the one with adapters to run the generator. The two adapters are for the incoming and return line, appropriately labeled. The incoming one, obviously, has an extra length of hose to reach almost to the bottom of the tank.

I used compressor fittings, rubber and steel washers cut to fit the profile of the cap. It is all very solid and airtight.

The fuel lines are long (6 feet each), have ball valves on them very close to the fuel tank end, to prevent spillage when they are disconnected from the line, and also to prevent air from entering the system. I will simply stick the lines on when required, no clamps. As the tank stands on the ground, there is zero vibration and so no need to clamp the lines, they would hold by themselves.

There is a tiny air hole in the fuel can that can be opened by simply unscrewing the cap a turn or two. Very smart design.

Total cost:

Diesel fuel can: $40 including shipping and very nifty mounting bracket (it was just the right kind that I needed) Washers: free Compressor fittings: about $1.99 from harbor freight.

i