hey all, I have been thinking about putting laminate flooring in my kitchen.
I want to keep it inexpensive but not so that it won't last. I have been
shopping around & don't know much about what is what.. the lower priced ones
are 7 to 8mm thick glueless. can anyone recommend a brand, or even what to
stay away from?
I have been looking at: Shaw, Kronoswiss, & mohawk.. all which can be
purchased for around $1/ sq foot...
Even the cheap laminates are durable. What you get with more money is a
better appearance, (more natural looking) and better wear on the top coat.
You won't go through 8 mm of material in your lifetime, but it is the top
layer that really counts. It seems as though many of the cheaper brands
don't offer much in the way of trim strip, transition pieces, etc. That may
or may not be a factor in your decision.
In any case, if you decide to install it, you need a good carbide tipped
blade to cut it.
I put laminate in my last kitchen. Then we had a leak under the sink. Ended
up removing it an putting down tile.
Your fooling yourself at a buck a foot for the flooring. You still need a
membrane and the pad. Check the direction for installation. My pad was $0.50
a foot on sale when I bought my flooring. Do you own or can borrow an
accurate tablesaw and miter saw?
I purchased a 10 inch Dewalt for my project. I already own a power miter
I had some laminate (Pergo) in a small room, and had a leak, and the
stuff swelled up and buckeled like crazy. I think the stuff is just
terrible in general, and in particular for any application that risks
wetness. I dont think it looks very good either. And my stuff wasnt
cheap. It ended up being as expensive as real wood flooring. If I wnated
to go with a prefinished product, I would go with a ~Bruce wood flooring
product (i.e. prefinished wood floors), or if that would be too thick an
application, tile is a great surface for a kitchen.
i'm doing an area where there is a cast iron radiator. i know it will
look lousy if i try to cut around the 4 "feet" it stands on. old guy
told me to jack up the radiator ever so slightly and slide the flooring
in under it - anyone ever hear of this - you know what i'm afraid of.
I've done it. A couple times when doing flooring projects I have been
able to pull up a cast iron radiator slightly, using a crowbar and
block of wood. Has not caused any leaks. The pipes to the radiators
are 80 year old iron.
When I put laminate in the kitchen I was not able to lift up the
radiator enough to get clearance under it; had to cut around the legs.
That's why they make that matching-color caulk. Of course, you always
have to cut around the pipes anyway.
One thing not mentioned though. was the consideration of engineered wood
rather than laminate. I put down some Mannington wood about 18 months ago
and I'm very happy with it. I have laminate on my stairs, but the wood is
much nicer overall.
Well that is certainly true. Hardwoods will buckle when heavily wet. I
had this happenas as well (I guess I should learn to keep the water
where it belongs...). However, the swelling eventually went down
(mostly), to the point you cannot visually tell, and only can feel it
barley. And with wood, you had refinish numerous times, whereas with
laminate, you are out-of-luck.
Waterprrof laminate sounds interesting, but I just dont like the look of
Don't like the LOOK of laminates? I defy you to tell which one of my 3 floors
Now, as for SOUND, that's a different story. When walking on it with hard
soled shoes, you can hear a difference between laminate and real hardwood.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.