Im still having Radon problems here. There are a few areas between the
flooring and the trim where there are gaps like this -
Even though that gap looks big........just on the outside of that picture on
both ends, the flooring and trim meet perfectly tight. Any ideas on what
to use to seal that gap tightly ? Theres a couple sections that look like
Im guess I have to chaulk everywhere where the trim meets the
sheetrock...but not sure what to do for the above image where the trim meets
I have the same radon levels that I had before the flooring was installed.
(7.0 ) This is a bummer.
They used radon plastic and padding as well with the 1/2 inch thick laminate
flooring. This gas is impossible to get arid of. The readings in the
crawl space were low too.
The radon is produced by natural events beyond your control and (this is the
point) it keeps on coming regardless of what you do.
Thus, unless you either provide ventilation to dilute the stuff and get it
outside of your home, sealing will not have much effect.
That's why some folks with basement end up having holes drilled in the slab
and they draw air under the slab and blow that air outside in the hope that
the air will sweep up the radon before it enters the living space.
As another poster mentioned, if you have a crawl space, you can that space
ventilated a much as you can manage. You want that space as open at the
support needed for the home permits.
Putting plastic on the ground will not help much unless you arrange
ventilation under the plastic because, as said, the gas just keeps on
coming. You either create an easy way for it to vent to the atmosphere or
it will find its own way.
Some folks with very bad luck have found that there is so much local randon
than on "still" days, the outside air isn't good for the health.
Did you put laminate flooring down to mitigate radon? Why? Your floor
isn't going to make your house gas tight. There's no plastic to prevent the
gas from entering through non-floor areas (like walls, service closets, et
c.). If a contractor recommended this you should speak with a lawyer
did you know about the radon problem before putting down the laminate?
appearance before function:(
like my laminate just got ruined by water, but my basement only gets
the time to fix radon and water is before finishing the space.
Alright pretend I dont have any radon problems, would paintable chaulk be
recommended to fill in the gap in the picture... And then paint it as close
as possible to match ?
Your telling me Sheetrock doesnt block this ?
My levels right now are around 7.0 (legal limits are below 4.0) I knew
about this radon issue before the laminate..and it was the RADON guy that
actually said I wouldnt need him if the laminate flooring was done
correctly. As it would block all the gas.....I guess not ? I thought of
him as a good guy for recommending that and not taking his business..most
people wouldnt do that.
So anyway, since I have Radiant Heating, he said the only place to drill
down and draw air out is underneath my garage. Im just not convinced that
will lower my levels significantly. My basement is about 1000 square feet
and the garage is right next to it.. How will drilling straight down in the
garage draw the gas out 40 left of there ?
sheetrock doesnt blck radon.......
radiant heating mkes it tough, but drilling in garage would likely
help, espically a newer home with a gravel bed under the slab floor.
the radon would be sucked between the gravel stones. under slight
vacuum to the exit, above roof level.
laminate flooring and sheetrock dont stop radon gas, since its a gas
it travels verywhere thru tiny cracks.
Your saying 2 different things here. Cracks are different then the solid
material. So either your talking about the cracks...or your talking about
the material ? Im sure there are people here that would disagree with you
penetrating through sheetrock..... or half inch think flooring that has
padding and 6 mill. plastic.
Well radon is getting thru the concrete?
Radon can pass thru tiny cracks in concrete, plastic etc.
Its near IMPOSSIBLE to seal it out:( In a basement or crawl space it
can pass up thru the voids in concrete blocks, cracks that can come
and go where concrete floors meet block walls, any penetration of
concrete floor, like bolts holding bottom plate for wood wall, etc
etc. cant seal under a plate....
plus the laminate plastic underlayment probably isnt perfect, all
seems taped, seacured to walls etc. and even if it was no guarantee
that movement would dislodge it or make it porous someday.......
drill into the non heated garage side, the slight vacuumn should help
if thats not enough turn on radiant heat use infared sensor to find
cool spots in floor to drill thru.
they shouldnt of heated behind walls or likely closets.
theres lots of ways to accomplish this.......
Drilling through the floor could be a problem with radiant heat, however
repairs are frequently made to radiant heat in concrete floors. Drilling is
fast, but could pierce the tubing, hand chiseling could slowly cut into the
concrete and be able to find the tubes and penetrate between them. It is
slow work and you still may damage the tubes so be prepared to have someone
on call who can repair any damage quickly.
When the heat is turned on the lines will be hot and the infared sensor will
see the heat of the lines. The concrete floor around the lines will be
colder, especially when the heat is first turned on.
YOu could probably feel the differance with your hand.
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