Anyone care to help BETA-33 get his hallway light working.
Here is what he says he has with no power on anything.
(Knob & Tube)
Light with 2 wires
S1 3-way with 3 wires
S2 3-way with 3 wires
I know nothing about knob and tube. I am assuming that at one time it
worked with what he has. (knowing this may not be true)
The light would have to contain the neutral (coming from anywhere) and
a wire coming from S2
S2 will have the wire going to the light and 2 wires coming from S1
S1 will have 2 wires going to S2 and a dead wire that should be coming
from a source (coming from anywhere)
Does this sound right?
I would think he could look in the attic and be able to see the wire
going from the light to S2
So he should also be able to see the two wires going from S1 to S2.
That leaves the third wire coming from S1. That wire should be the
one going to a power source.
This sketch is a common arrangement. Maybe you will have something
similar and can tell where the red wire is going.
You can find out what I know by reading his comments to this thread
He says no wire is hot at any box, and the light has never worked. He
is using an inductance pocket tester. I just learned he has phoned
the wires out in the past with a continuity tester.
You seem to have it figured correctly. From the postings, I am not sure
whether the OP is missing a hot feed to one of the switches or whether he is
missing a neutral feed to the light. These can be verified by connecting a
long wire to a hot or neutral in a known working circuit and testing for
power between the extension wire and the wires in the problem area.
One common problem with electrical troubleshooting for me is that people
tend to say they do or do not have power at or on a certain wire. Power
never is present at one wire, only between two wires and you need to know
which two wires are being checked. And, of course, using a DVM instead of a
test light just confuses the issue even more.
Thanks Terry for starting this thread.
I'll have to check the various suggestions out a little more on Tuesday.
and then I won't be home while it's daylight outside, and I want to be able
to see everything with and without the power on, and without having to use a
I went into the attic this morning, and part of the floor is already up from
when I was working on it before. But I have to take one more board up to
access directly above the light fixture, and I didn't have time to do that
I have a hunch that I'm going to end up doing as some have suggested --
start over and run a whole new circuit. But, since it's a puzzle right now,
I want to get better access to the light fixture from the attic above, and
try to see if I can find a solution to the puzzle.
Yeah I think a whole new circuit sounds best too.
To run a new circuit, you may still have to remove the same boards you
are removing now, though.
You might get lucky and find an easy fix. How have you been living?
today insurance companies go out of their way to not pay off, and some
people dont inform their insurers of risks till a fire occurs, then
insurance researches the owners activities, and occasionally doesnt pay
Unless the homeowner deliberately conceals a situation, there's no basis
for not paying the claim.
You've been afforded the opportunity to previously document a single
verifiable case of the above problem.
It is nothing but FUD.
shall we discuss how insurance is supposed to cover storm damage, so
insurance companies now call it flood damage and refuse to pay, saying
the flood that went with the storm did the real damage..........
even 10 years ago insurance was dependable, pay the premium, relax
in my immediate neighborhood a main water line burst, nearly washing
away a home. took out basement walls, etc. nearly totaled the home.
the water companies insurance refused to pay because water was shut
off within a half hour.
water company is a muncipality, so it cant be sued.
homeowners refused to pay too.
the whole mess is in court, the family had to borrow money from family
and friends to stabiilize their home.
years ago such stuff didnt occur..........
now why defend K&T its obsolete, undersized, lacks grounding a basic
safety issue,,,,, geez its likely a 100 years old.
in that time how many times has the home got?
a new roof?
new hot water tank?
how many new cars have owners of that home bought since K&T was new?
whats it cost to replace all the K&T? perhaps 5 grand?
now compare that 5 grand with one new roof............
you know no one really owns a home, since they tend to outlive people.
we are really stewards of probably the most expensive thing we will
and homes wear out, and need continious repairs and upgrades.
so why fight new wiring?
perhaps your home is the worst on the street? with broken side walks,
roof patched with tarps, and the interior a shambles?
while you proudly say its fine?
maintaing upgrading and taking care of your home pays off big time at
home resale time, in faster sale and much more money.
replacing K&T isnt money wasted, its money invested........
that did indeed make the news not long ago, today insurance does
whatever it can to avoid paying claims.
I noted you made no comment on all the other related issues i raised.
why should K&T last forever while everything else in the home gets
replaced on a regular basis?
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