My sheetrock is up, but the panels aren't all perfectly flush against
one another. In most cases where there is a gap it's 1/16 - 1/8, but
there are a couple seams that are up to 1/4 inch. What is the best
method to attack these when taping and mudding? Should I cut thin
strips of sheetrock and fit them in before taping, or will the taping
itself be sufficient to cover the seam? Any particular suggestions?
On Jan 21, 5:55 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Unless you have watched a pro do it before, or have done it yourself
at least once, hire a pro for the entire tape/mud process. If he is
good, there should be very little or no sanding involved. Just
watching one for 15 minutes is an education. The books can give you
'what to do' but they do _not_ tell you 'how", i.e., the technique of
laying and smoothing mud.
I guess I should have clarified - I have patched holes, taped and
mudded, and even fixed half-panels on a vaulted ceiling after water
damage - all with relatively good results. Not professional, but
quite good and up to my standards. However, I want these seams to
look as good as possible, and was just looking for opinions
(professional or otherwise) on how to deal with these gaps in seams,
since I know my limitations and thought I could benefit from other
people's experiences. I'm thinking I'll pre-fill the gaps with
compound, let it dry, then beginning my taping and mudding process,
unless I hear otherwise that someone has a better way. Any ideas?
That's pretty much a waste of time, regardless of whether you're using mesh
or paper. Just do what you're supposed to do. For mesh, put the tape on
first. Some mud will ooze through the tape. For paper, just layer on some
mud and paper over as normal. As long as there is a usual amount of mud
behind and on top of the tape, it's the tape that will give it its strength.
They also use a flat box to apply the mud to the joints. They can tape
a room in only a few minutes and cover in in about 10 minutes. This box
is just run along the joint and it applies and smooths the mud in one
single, easy step.
Don't forget the pump to fill it.
Then check out the other toys the pros play with!
Otherwise, just prefill the gaps and start taping! 1/4 is pushing the
limit without filling with slivers of drywall.
Man, Mike, those toys look cool. Almost makes me want to change
professions! Anyway, so would you recommend filling with slivers of
drywall then, or just prefilling with mud? If you do think slivers of
drywall would be best, do I just wedge them in and let friction take
hold or how would I get them to stay (since 1/4" slivers won't take a
screw without crumbling). Thanks for the links!
On Jan 21, 10:36 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller) wrote:
Durabond is tailor-made for the OP's situation. It's stronger than
regular joint compound or EasySand, so if he has any concerns due to
the joint gaps Durabond is an excellent way to go. The only caveat is
to make sure that the Durabond coat(s) are smooth and not overfilled -
leave room for the easier-to-sand finish coat(s).
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