Sheetrock Walls on Metal Studs

[mcp6453]

My daughter and son-in-law just moved into an apartment. When trying to hang curtains, she discovered that she could not put screws into the wall. It turns out that there are metal studs behind the sheetrock. I'm not sure how deep she was able to go, but it wasn't much. A plastic wall anchor when about half the way in, as I recall. If that's true, the sheetrock is attached directly to the studs, I guess.

How should she mount the curtain rods. There is no way to secure them on the surface, that I'm aware of. She may have to get a different style of curtain rod that allows her to attach them past the metal stud, but that could look awkward (and end up with several holes in the sheetrock.)

Do you know of a particular fastener or anchor that will help?

The water supply and drain for the washing machine are on the RIGHT side of the laundry room. The washing machine had to be rotated 90 degrees for the drain to reach. Is there a reason not to extend the length of the drain hose? Is it common to do so? The supply hoses will reach, but the drain is too short.

[trader4]

Steel studs, like wood studs are spaced many inches apart. Not sure what the conventional spacing is on steel studs, but wood is 16". So, the easiest thing is move over a few inches one way or the other. If that isn't possible, then just drill a starter hole into the metal stud for a sheet metal screw.

No reason you can't extend it provided you do it in a sound fashion. There are limitation on how HIGH a washer can pump, but having it move water an extra 10 ft or whatever is no problem. As to what to use, can't help you there. I would try goodling for extra long washer hose or similar. You just don't want to do some hack job with a patch, for obvious reasons.

[DerbyDad03]

Yes, the sheetrock would be attached directly to the studs.

They make drywall screws for steel studs. Very fine thread and a drill-type tip. You can start them with a screw gun, but you should finish with a han d screwdriver to avoid over-tightening and stripping the hole. Any home sto re should carry them.

Another option, for heavier materials, is to use wood blocking behind the s tud, but that means opening the wall, inserting a piece of wood and fixing the wall afterwards.

You can also use toggle bolts, which require a larger hole through both the drywall and the stud, so whatever you are hanging has to be big enough to hide the hole or you need to do a repair job on the hole to make it smaller .

For curtains, you could consider a piece of wood that spans 2 studs above t he window, attached with long drywall screws, allowing you attach the curta in rod brackets to the wood. Obviously you wouldn't just screw a piece of b eat up pressure treated 2 x 8 to the wall. You would include the wood as pa rt of the design, perhaps routed and painted a contrasting color, etc.

You can buy longer drain hoses. Just Google it or buy this one, it's almost 12' long:

[mcp6453]

tip. You can start them with a screw gun, but you should finish with a hand screwdriver to avoid over-tightening and stripping the hole. Any home store should carry them.

stud, but that means opening the wall, inserting a piece of wood and fixing the wall afterwards.

drywall and the stud, so whatever you are hanging has to be big enough to hide the hole or you need to do a repair job on the hole to make it smaller.

window, attached with long drywall screws, allowing you attach the curtain rod brackets to the wood. Obviously you wouldn't just screw a piece of beat up pressure treated 2 x 8 to the wall. You would include the wood as part of the design, perhaps routed and painted a contrasting color, etc.

Since this is an apartment, I can't cut into the sheetrock. I'd forgotten about drywall screws for metal studs. These are exterior walls, so I don't know if they are light or heavy gauge steel. Will the screws care? There are two types in stock at my local Lowes. One has a drill point. Most of the others don't. I guess both will work.

I'm going to take a drill and some bits just in case. Hopefully I can drill through the metal.

Thanks (also to trader4) for the hose information. I'm going to wait to Monday to go to a local industrial supplier to get hoses. That's where my appliance repair guy goes. They're hopefully better and cheaper than the Lowes hoses. With right angle inlet hoses and a longer drain hose, I should be able to put the washer in place without rotating it.

Now I need to figure out the best way to install the dryer vent hose (spiral wire with tin foil covering) without crimping it. The dryer has to be very close to the wall, and the exhaust vent doesn't quite line up with the dryer outlet.

[Meanie]

Hilti hollow wall anchors.

They are the cats meow, IMO.

If you must remain on a stud, then use the appropriate drill size (usually 1/2") and drill through the metal stud. Insert the anchor, which will attach behind the stud wall, snap off excess and it'll provide great support. If you do not hit a stud, it's still the same installation method. Drill, insert, snap off and screw in item. I use these anchors all the time. Very seldom do I use any other.

[recyclebinned]

Are you sure that what?s behind there is a metal stud and not an electric al conduit, water or gas pipe etc.?

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, I'd first ask resident building manager(care taker) and her neighbors.

[mcp6453]

conduit, water or gas pipe etc.?

Now that's a scary question. I'll know in about two hours. Thanks for bringing it up.

[mcp6453]

I did ask the apartment managers (who asked their maintenance guy). They confirmed that the construction is metal studs and that the washer/dryer rooms are stupid.

[DerbyDad03]

...Major Snippage Occurred...

Well, the OP did say:

"A plastic wall anchor went about half the way in, as I recall. If that's true, the sheetrock is attached directly to the studs, I guess."

"I guess" indicates to me that the OP is not familiar with the use of metal studs for drywall, therefore probably didn't know that special screw were required.

[clare]

A self drilling self tapping sheet metal screw SHOULD do the job. for hanging the curtain rods.

[Ashton Crusher]

16" studs? Don't think I've seen that spacing for 30 or more years.....

[mcp6453]

Exactly right. I got some self-drilling 1" #6 pan head screws, and the curtains are now hanging as they should. For this application, a slightly longer screw would be better, although these are holding.

Thanks for the help. Now, on to the washing machine and dryer.