My daughter and son-in-law just moved into an apartment. When trying to hang
curtains, she discovered that she could not put screws into the wall. It turns
out that there are metal studs behind the sheetrock. I'm not sure how deep she
was able to go, but it wasn't much. A plastic wall anchor when about half the
way in, as I recall. If that's true, the sheetrock is attached directly to the
studs, I guess.
How should she mount the curtain rods. There is no way to secure them on the
surface, that I'm aware of. She may have to get a different style of curtain rod
that allows her to attach them past the metal stud, but that could look awkward
(and end up with several holes in the sheetrock.)
Do you know of a particular fastener or anchor that will help?
The water supply and drain for the washing machine are on the RIGHT side of the
laundry room. The washing machine had to be rotated 90 degrees for the drain to
reach. Is there a reason not to extend the length of the drain hose? Is it
common to do so? The supply hoses will reach, but the drain is too short.
On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:27:08 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
Steel studs, like wood studs are spaced many inches apart.
Not sure what the conventional spacing is on steel studs,
but wood is 16". So, the easiest thing is move over a few
inches one way or the other. If that isn't possible, then
just drill a starter hole into the metal stud for a sheet metal
No reason you can't extend it provided you do it in a sound
fashion. There are limitation on how HIGH a washer can
pump, but having it move water an extra 10 ft or whatever
is no problem. As to what to use, can't help you there.
I would try goodling for extra long washer hose or similar.
You just don't want to do some hack job with a patch, for
On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:27:08 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
Yes, the sheetrock would be attached directly to the studs.
They make drywall screws for steel studs. Very fine thread and a drill-type
tip. You can start them with a screw gun, but you should finish with a han
d screwdriver to avoid over-tightening and stripping the hole. Any home sto
re should carry them.
Another option, for heavier materials, is to use wood blocking behind the s
tud, but that means opening the wall, inserting a piece of wood and fixing
the wall afterwards.
You can also use toggle bolts, which require a larger hole through both the
drywall and the stud, so whatever you are hanging has to be big enough to
hide the hole or you need to do a repair job on the hole to make it smaller
For curtains, you could consider a piece of wood that spans 2 studs above t
he window, attached with long drywall screws, allowing you attach the curta
in rod brackets to the wood. Obviously you wouldn't just screw a piece of b
eat up pressure treated 2 x 8 to the wall. You would include the wood as pa
rt of the design, perhaps routed and painted a contrasting color, etc.
You can buy longer drain hoses. Just Google it or buy this one, it's almost
tip. You can start them with a screw gun, but you should finish with a hand
screwdriver to avoid over-tightening and stripping the hole. Any home store
should carry them.
stud, but that means opening the wall, inserting a piece of wood and fixing the
drywall and the stud, so whatever you are hanging has to be big enough to hide
the hole or you need to do a repair job on the hole to make it smaller.
window, attached with long drywall screws, allowing you attach the curtain rod
brackets to the wood. Obviously you wouldn't just screw a piece of beat up
pressure treated 2 x 8 to the wall. You would include the wood as part of the
design, perhaps routed and painted a contrasting color, etc.
Since this is an apartment, I can't cut into the sheetrock. I'd forgotten about
drywall screws for metal studs. These are exterior walls, so I don't know if
they are light or heavy gauge steel. Will the screws care? There are two types
in stock at my local Lowes. One has a drill point. Most of the others don't. I
guess both will work.
I'm going to take a drill and some bits just in case. Hopefully I can drill
through the metal.
Thanks (also to trader4) for the hose information. I'm going to wait to Monday
to go to a local industrial supplier to get hoses. That's where my appliance
repair guy goes. They're hopefully better and cheaper than the Lowes hoses. With
right angle inlet hoses and a longer drain hose, I should be able to put the
washer in place without rotating it.
Now I need to figure out the best way to install the dryer vent hose (spiral
wire with tin foil covering) without crimping it. The dryer has to be very close
to the wall, and the exhaust vent doesn't quite line up with the dryer outlet.
On 6/21/2013 7:32 PM, Red Green wrote:
...Major Snippage Occurred...
Well, the OP did say:
"A plastic wall anchor went about half the way in, as I recall. If
that's true, the sheetrock is attached directly to the studs, I guess."
"I guess" indicates to me that the OP is not familiar with the use of
metal studs for drywall, therefore probably didn't know that special
screw were required.
Exactly right. I got some self-drilling 1" #6 pan head screws, and the curtains
are now hanging as they should. For this application, a slightly longer screw
would be better, although these are holding.
Thanks for the help. Now, on to the washing machine and dryer.
Hilti hollow wall anchors.
They are the cats meow, IMO.
If you must remain on a stud, then use the appropriate drill size
(usually 1/2") and drill through the metal stud. Insert the anchor,
which will attach behind the stud wall, snap off excess and it'll
provide great support. If you do not hit a stud, it's still the same
installation method. Drill, insert, snap off and screw in item. I use
these anchors all the time. Very seldom do I use any other.
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