Installing Old Work B618R Electrical Box

[Boris]

Hi,

I installing an outdoor dusk-to-dawn LED floodlight on my garage. The garage has siding, and on the inside of the garage, I have removed sheet rock behind where I plan to install the light fixture. The is no stud nearby. I need to cut a hole in the siding (outside) and install an old- work box. It's a Carlon B618R box with swing-out wings.

My question is, how do I cut the hole so that the box doens't fall through, yet determine where/how to make the cutouts for the swing-out wings? I will be cutting from the outside (siding).

I have some ideas, but thought I'd ask here.

[hubops]

... " siding " .. gee thanks for that detailed description. John T.

[micky]

Regardless, if you have the sheet rock off why can't you attach the box to nearest 2x4s? Or nail in some short extra ones.

Something ilke this won't work?

clear how long its bar is -- I think it's longer than what either homedepot or amazon says, 11.8 or 14.8 inches respectively -- but if you go there, it will be clear.

This one has a bar that goes up to 22 inches:

You can buy this bar separately and it goes up to 26" installs in 1/2 in. knockout located in bottom (back) of box --- if you get the right kind of box, or you make your own hole in the bottom.

If you're still goign to do it this way, make the main hole, then put lipstick on the square parts that need cutouts and press the box into the hole. Use your imagination or a ruler to figure out how long the wings are and what path they take. Use a sabre saw to cut the added holes, or a sabre.

I bought lipstick for $1.50 or less. I'm pretty sure it was at a dollar store for $1.25.

[Boris]

micky [e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Without going into all the reasons why I can't do that...I can't.

I've considered that, but won't work.

Won't work. No access.

That was my thought. I've used motor oil before. Hoping for a more exact method.

I have daughters. Plenty of lipstick.

Thanks.

[trader_4]

The main point to an old work box is to avoid having to cut sheetrock. Take a piece of paper and pencil, trace the size hole needed and then cut the piece of paper and use it as a template. You would think they would put the size of the hole required on the plastic box, but I guess that's expecting too much.

[Scott Lurndal]

Remove enough drywall to access the studs on either side and screw in a cross 2x4 to attach a real octagon box (not an old work box).

It is a lot easier to replace the drywall when you can screw it directly to the studs on either side of the opening.

[hubops]

Use the open end of the box as a template ; subtract 3/4 ' or whatever and add the cut-outs for the wing protrusions. .. 30 seconds or so ? What am I missing here .. ? John T.

[Hiram T Schwantz]

On Thu, 21 Dec 2023 01:00:51 -0000 (UTC), Boris posted for all of us to digest...

Check out these products.

[Boris]

[e-mail] (Scott Lurndal) wrote in news:UtYgN.93176$Wp [e-mail]:

There were too many protrustions to accommodate with the B618R box. I decided to use a new construction box (had to modify it a bit). I had to cut a lot of sheet rock out in order to make room for my jig-saw. Some cutting still had to be made outside on the siding. Must have climbed ladders in and out 50 times.

The cutout looks messy, but it works, and floodlight covers the entire cutout. Now to sheetrock.

[Boris]

Hiram T Schwantz [e-mail] wrote in news:jG2hN.64572$ [e-mail]:

G>

That is a great site. I will keep it for future difficult projects.

I'm always impressed that there's always something to 'do the job' if you know where to find the right materials.

[Scott Lurndal]

Go ahead and remove the strip of drywall covering the studs on either side. Then you can cut the new piece to fit and simply screw it to the studs. Easier to tape, since it's supported on both sides.

[micky]

Yes, but I know you mean half the width of the studs.

[Boris]

micky [e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I'm sure Scott does.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

[Scott Lurndal]

No, in this case the entire width of the stud is fine, you can even exceed that by a small amount. The existing wall is fully supported both above and below the gap.

[Scott Lurndal]

Actually, in this case, you can use the entire stud; the sheetrock on either side is well supported without that 16" gap; you can even go a half inch or so over into the cavity on either side without affecting the integrity of the existing wallboard. And it is a lot better to have 1.5" to center your drywall screw on rather than 0.75".

[Clare Snyder]

Go 2 or 3 inches over the stud then fasten a "dutchman" to the back of the existing drywall with PL or screws (if using wood) to restore the integrety of the drywall. Or you can "cheat" and use setting compound slathered into the joint - just make dure you wipe it back from the surface to make room for some "mud" so you don't have to sand the stuff!!!!

[Jessica Simpson]

Instead of hacking up the siding and creating a potential thermal and water leak, consider using a surface mount box.

[Dean]

Would one of these work?

[Boris]

Clare Snyder [e-mail]> wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I like it.