I started to take the oak toilet seat off, but it's always hard when
they use the standard plastic nuts to get a hold of them. This time
it's worse because the bolt is rusted, but using my fingers and using
a vice-grip pliers, I couldn't even start it turning.
I thought of using a soldering iron to melt through the plastic? ??
Should I use an electronics iron, which might make a nice thin cut, or
should I dig out my tincrafter's iron, used for gutters etc., much
Are the fumes poisonous?
Is a socket wrench likely to fit? I'll have to hunt for my deep
They sell tools for this purpose. I've seen two models.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)64296839&sr=8-1&keywords=toilet+seat+tool
(Amazon.com product link shortened)64296839&sr=8-2&keywords=toilet+seat+tool
The first one looks sort of flimsy and one rater said it was flimsy.
The second one was only 10.nn yesterday and now it's 12!
On Thu, 26 May 2016 18:02:42 -0500, Gordon Shumway
Do you mean the part I can see while standing? It's an oak and brass
seat so that part is brass. I guess if I'm always careful I won't
scratch the porcelain, and when I get to 1/8" I can break.... No. The
cut can go all the way to the porcelain and each half will sill be
attached to the rest of the bolt. And I'm sure the top part is
bigger than the hole so it won't come out, even if I can beak off
And the second hinge is only 10" from the cabinet, so I can't pull the
saw from the cabinet side, and the toilet tank will keep me from
sawing straight from the other side, so I can saw at an angle but then
the seat will keep my hand up which means the rest of the saw pointed
down and bumping into the tank. I think I'm correct here.
You won't scratch the porcelain unless you try really hard. There may be some discoloration on the porcelain from contact
with the saw blade, but all that's needed to clean that is a little elbow grease and some all-purpose cleanser.
I found a guy on the web who said he used a stake knife [sic] and a
cigarette lighter. and it worked well.
I ended up using an electronics soldering iron. The whole thing took
30 minutes. I put down a big mirror at an angle for a good view,
and an LED flashlight, and once it was really hot it melted the stuff
fairly fast, but otoh, it was so hard to see what I was doing, hard to
point the iron and the flashlight in the right direction, hard not to
move right when I want to move left, down when I want to move up,
especially on the second side where I couldn't get my face down low
enough to look directly.
I cut one line all the way through the thicker part near the toilet,
by drawing back but also pushing the tip up to the toilet. No risk of
breaking the toilet with this little thing, like there might have been
with a propane torch.
I had to cut another line 70 or 90^ away, then pry the small piece off
and then the big piece.
The side with more than a foot to the bathtub was easier than the side
next to the cabinet.
I had to rest in the middle because I'm fat and it was a very awkward
position, esp. on the cabinet side, and to give the bathroom fan time
to exhaust the gas.
The nuts had 4 ribs, meant for fingers I guess, but because there are
4, a 6-point socket wouldn't work. A 12-point might but it would
have to be just the right size. And deep. I think all my deep
sockets are 6-point, but I'm not sure???
This is a seat without separate bolts. The bolts are part of the
hinges. And I think if cutting this plastic with a Dremel, it would
have been hard to get in the corner, next to the bolt and next to the
toilet. And you know how tough some plastics are. I recommend the
soldering iron and maybe a gas mask.
The plastic was the almost clear stuff
The fumes were white and just swirled around, didn't rise much because
a soldering iron doesn't cause a draft. They didn't smell very bad
but I don't think that's a measure of how poisonous they are.
If this post ends in the middle of a sentence, you'll know the fumes
Probabl wouldn't have worked and I saved 6 or 12 dollars.
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