How to drill a 1" hole in a steel-clad entry door

[Rebel1]

I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75" door. It's item U9896 here:

From peeking into a pilot hole, the cladding is only 1/16" and the core seems to be MDF. Would something like this work?

Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck, which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for rent.

Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?

R1

[trader4]

I'd use a regular $10 hole saw that you can find at HD, Lowes, etc. That will fit your 3/8 drill. You want the ones with the medium size teeth that are made to cut through many kinds of material, including metal and wood. I'd go for the one with the smallest teeth I could find.

Like this:

[Rebel1]

Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.

Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets my needs.

Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel sold separately:

Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8" mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use with a hand-held drill against an installed door.

R1

[trader4]

I think if you go to HD or Lowes they will have them. I know I've seen them there before.

[trader4]

Here it is:

If that link doesn't work, just search on their website for bi metal hole saw.

[Larry W]

A good quality holesaw such as Morse, Starrett, or Milwaukee will go through several steel clad doors before needing sharpening. Use a drill that can be slowed down while the bit is in the steel portion, and use some oil or some kind of lube while it's cutting the steel too.

[Pete C.]

All of the step drills I have run across fit a 3/8" chuck just fine. They usually have three flats on them as well so you don't have to over tighten the chuck to keep them from slipping. The problem you will likely have is with the MDF core once you drill to 1" from both sides which will leave you with something of an hourglass shape hole in the MDF. You might be able to clear that out with a 1" spade bit if you're careful, but spade bits don't really like non-piloted use.

[Stormin Mormon]

I was about to type that. Look at the door, inside and out. Carefully choose your location. Be considerate to the shortest person in the family. Tall man can bend down a bit.

Mark the location with a pencil. Prick punch to get a starter indent. Drill totally through the door with a 1/4 bit. Use the hole saw from one side, and then from the other side.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

I'd use a regular $10 hole saw that you can find at HD, Lowes, etc. That will fit your 3/8 drill. You want the ones with the medium size teeth that are made to cut through many kinds of material, including metal and wood. I'd go for the one with the smallest teeth I could find.

Like this:

[Stormin Mormon]

IIRC they have a cheaper "one use" version which has the pilot bit already built in. The pilot bit is essential to keep the hole saw centered.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

I think if you go to HD or Lowes they will have them. I know I've seen them there before.

[notbob]

First of all, why the Hell is it a one inch hole? It's a peephole, not a supermax camera. I'd look for a smaller OD optic.

You're gonna need a step drill, no doubt about it. OTOH, 1/16" thk is pretty hefty if it's steel sheet clad. If alum, no problem. Yer also gonna need a 1/2" drill motor. A 3/8" chuck drill motor is jes not gonna have the power.

Fer gawds sake, stay away from a hole saw unless you have a drill press or magnetic drill press. Even with a pilot drill, the chances of breaking or at least spraining yer wrist is HUGE. I'm a machinist and you couldn't get me to use a hole saw with a hand drill motor, even at gunpoint.

Geez, donchya got some friends or neighbors? Someone is bound to have a 1/2" drill motor. I've got 3! I'm remote as Hell, yet still have 3 rental places within 20 mi. Beg, borrow, or steal the 1/2" motor and mail order a bit.

If you can find a 7/8" OD peephole, you can use a 3/8" chuck drill motor and pay a reasonable price. Unibit is a good product:

nb

[HeyBub]

We know what you're trying to do.

The only excuse for a 1" peep-hole is so you can shoot through it. Because, if you're not going to shoot through it, a 3/8" peeper or video camera would work.

[clare]

It is done every day by hundreds of door installers installing deadbolts every day of the week. You DO want a "d handle" type drill with a pipe handle on it if you want an extra level of safety - which USUALLY means a 1/2" drill - but I've seen commercial duty 3/8 drills with that feature. With a bit of care a 3/8 drill without the extra handle can safely do the job. As Stormy said - drill a pilot hole all the way through first - a size smaller than the pilot drill of the hole saw is a good idea

Home Despot rents 'em.

[notbob]

Hundreds of door installers are either drilling wood or have a mag-base drill. While I'm sure there are some real gorillas out there, I'm not one of them. When I was young, strong, and stupid, I used a custom carbide hole saw with my 400 RPM Milwaukee to drill thru concrete. Was doing great till the saw struck an embedded steel I-beam. Ripped that 1/2" motor right out my hand, giving my wrist a terrible wrench, then continued turninig (lock was on) till it ripped it's own power cord out by the roots. Never again. ;)

I don't know, perhaps a 1" hole saw wouldn't be too bad. That's not much side torque if the saw should get tilted and/or the teeth grab. I've done it more than a few times with larger dia holes. Never again without some sorta drilling fixture/guide to ensure perpendicularity. I'm talking strictly metal, now. Wood is a non-issue.

nb

[clare]

I'll use a piloted hole saw - but I'm not stupid enough to use a "hole cutter" - even in a drill press.

[tangerine3]

Before spending that kind of money for something you'll use once, pull the hinge pins and take the door to your local lumber yard, or a machine shop. They'll make the hole for you, and I doubt it will cost over $10.

But there have been lots of other good advice too.

Plus, dont you know any friends or relatives with tools? A 6pack of beer will probably get the job done by one of them.

[Rebel1]

>

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Actually, 1" offers a beautiful view. Trot down to Home Depot and take a look and compare it to smaller viewers.

[Rebel1]

It's a bit tough squeezing a 36x80" door into my Camry trunk. Also, it would leave the house wide open to burglars while I'm away. I've already recently been "burgled."

[TimR]

And finally, before you drill that hole, are you sure you need it?

I ask because once at work I was told to drill holes in steel doors for a similar peephole.

I found the doors were all solid, but - next to a window. (like a motel room setup)

I couldn't see any point in the peephole, it didn't seem to add any security to what was already there. Of course my boss told me to do it anyway, so I did, but at least I raised the issue first.

[trader4]

I agree with you. It's just thin metal over a wood core. I would not be afraid of using a decent 3/8 drill and a bi-metal hole saw. I've done 4 1/2" holes through 4 1/2 thick wood using them.

[Rebel1]

Since I already had a set of wood-boring spade bits that included 1", I went ahead and used it successfully, working with a 1/8" pilot hole and both sides toward the center. Turns out that the thickness of the cladding is only 1/32" and the core is foam. Here's what I used:

Many thanks to all for your helpful comments. Dennis was right about the type of bit to use, despite being designed for wood.