The door is 1-3/4" thick with a foam interior. The hole is 1/2" diameter
and extends the full thickness of the door. (It was made to accommodate
a pushbutton deadbolt lock.)
Bondo seems to be the choice for taking care of the steel faces, but I'm
looking for suggestions for the cavity between the steel faces. I never
used Bondo before, so I don't know what kind of backing it needs. Maybe
a simple wood dowel, just slightly shorter that 1-3/4" would be okay.
I've done it when I removed some of the 1970s plastic do-dads. I didn't
bother filling the inside as the holes were about 5/16", but for larger
holes, if you have some spray foam, or even just a piece of foam, cut
and pushed in. Bondo worked pretty easy. After sanding and painting,
unless you know where to look, you'd never see the spots.
> The door is 1-3/4" thick with a foam interior. The hole is 1/2" diameter
If it were me, I would just use a 1/2 X 1 3/4 Chicago bolt (which go by
several many names, including "sex bolt") to solve all the problems at
the same time. In fact, all you need is a 1/2 inch diameter Chicago
screw and a 1 3/4 inch long round head screw and a washer. But, it'd be
better if you could get a 1 3/4 inch long by 1/2 inch diameter Chicago
bolt. Then you could just use a stainless steel round head screw and a
stainless steel washer.
In the above picture, the screw is a flat head screw. One could equally
well use a round head screw here instead.
Any of the places listed under "Fasteners" in your yellow pages phone
directory should be able to source this kind of screw for you.
I would put a touch of rusty metal primer on the bare metal before the
Bondo, let it cure so rust doesn't percolate through the finish.
Check the instructions on the Bondo to see if anything more is needed.
When I put Bondo of the roof of my '84 Buick, I used stainless steel
wool for reinforcement, per advice of a kid at the auto supply shop :o)
Worked fine; sold the old boat for $1000 in 2010.
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