Heat Pump Disconnect Switch

Well, when I look it up on the internet it's called a disconnect switch. There is something definitely wrong somewhere when the unit will NOT shut off unless I pull this switch out.

That is not what you said to start with. Here is what you said :

It is not really a switch, just a simple plug and when you pull it out and flip it upside down,it is just a storage place for it.

It is a solid state thermostat and thanks for the tip! I'll pull the batteries out and see what happens. Trying to sort out all possibilities before picking up the phone and calling the AC/Heating man. Won't I jump for joy if it's something as simple as installing new batteries!?!

I went through an assortment of high tech thermostats and now I have a round Honeywell T-87. It works every time.

It still could be bad. The only way to tell is disconnect the "heat" wire. (usually the white one) and plug the HVAC disconnect back in. See if the outside unit is still running. If it is just the inside fan that is running, try the green wire. Yellow is for AC and the red is the 24v from the air handler.

This is a package unit? All in one piece, outside. You still either have a bad thermostat, shorted wire or a relay stuck closed on the unit. If you can't investigate beyond being sure the thermostat settings are right, you are calling the tech.

I would think there is still something inside blowing air, either an air handler blowing through ducts or if a split system, a through the wall fan. If the OP can't spot where the warm or cold air is coming from, I have little faith she can change a thermostat. I'm actually a little surprised she pulled the disconnect without getting hurt. I don't like pulling those under load myself. That may be overcautious but I try to turn things off first when I can.

Could be as simple as a short in the thermostat wires, maybe from some rodent. Whatever it is, if you have reasonable DIY skills you can probably fix it for not much, maybe $25 for a relay, worst case I guess it could be a control board. With a HVAC tech, you're pretty much at their mercy and they can hose you right proper if they want to.

Yea, thay can really hose you.

A couple of years ago on a Saturday the AC quit. Called the man and was told it would be a minimum of $ 100 for him to come out. Ok with that.

He got here and replaced a bad motor capacitor in about 15 minuits. I was tlaking with him, and he was open and frindly. Gave me osme pointers about it. He then asked me what I though the capacitor would cost. I told him they paid less than probably $ 25 for it and the markup was about double , so $ 50. He said the company had a fixed rate of $ 300 for the capacitor repair.

Later I ordered a capacitor and a relay he pointed out that often goes bad off ebay for about $ 30 total. Good thing I did as about 3 years later the capacitor went bad and I put in the one I ordered, then ordered another.

Yeah. The local (but highly rated) HVAC repair charged me 85 to show up, and $250 for the cap. It was $12 at the local supply, but they wouldn't sell to me as I'm not a contractor.

On the other hand, some years back the other company in town, who'd put my heat pump in in that house, did sell me a special breaker for my air handler. It was the middle of a cold snap, they were swamped and couldn't get to me for days, and they'd had a bunch of bad breakers on that unit so they were pretty sure what it was, and they gave it to me at cost. It was one of the easiest repairs I've done, in terms of taking the old one out and reconnecting the new. But it was also one of the most physically difficult, because I had to half squat in my attic threaded between wires, tubes, etc., with no room to move and every muscle cramping. I'd have called these guys first but they've since gone under.

Amazon and priority shipping? That's where I got a new condenser fan. $90 and it was here in two days. It would have been ~$350 for the fancy ECM one that was in it. I opted for a regular one. It would have to save a whole lot of electric to pay off that difference. The original one only lasted maybe 4 years, wasn't going to do that again.

HVAC suppliers are real pricks when it comes to homeowners but they are not the only place that sells motor capacitors.

As long as it's not gas related or refrigerant I've been able to buy anything I need under my cpmpany name

These days they use R410a or 134 (cars) and anyone can buy that. I still have a jug of R22 in case the "legacy" system I have in the addition ever fails. (Heluva a deal for a "new old stock" machine).

The other thing to stock up on for a dark and stormy night is the HOT SURFACE IGNITER used in many gas furnaces these days. They are basically a glow plug and will fail with no warning leaving you with no heat. Its a good idea to have a spare on hand and know the symptoms and how to replace it.

mark

Your problem could be a sticking relay in the (inside?) unit. Sometimes, tapping on the relay with the handle of a screwdriver will knock it loose as a temporary fix. You would have to remove the cover to find the relays. (And know what a relay looks like)

... and electrolytic like "Kaboom" when you turn the power on.

That is why we have Grainger. If you don't have a volume account, they are expensive but they usually have things like this. With the right account you get 40% or more off of their list price tho. For a motor cap, I would go to a motor shop if Ace didn't have it. They do have some motor parts like caps and brushes if the associate can find them. At mine, they are in the power tool area in a little cabinet

...

Fortunately, we still have a place that will sell OTC at reasonable, if not the best, markup rates.