I just used galvanized pipe to run it where I wanted it. Have the
pipes slope slightly, with drains at the low spots for moisture
removal. A section of pipe down with the drain at the bottom will
act as a reservoir to hold the moisture between drainings. I used
1/2 inch pipe, and a short 1/2 inch pressure hose to connect the
compressor to the pipe.
I used 1/2" copper pipe in my old garage, with soldered fittings. I used a
piece of rubber air hose to connect to the compressor at first, but it kept
bursting. I don't know why. So I used a piece of soft copper tubing, with
a loop in it to absorb vibrations, and it worked great after that. I
connected the tubing to the pipe with a gas valve and flare fittings.
Some years ago, a friend who I trust assured me that it is important not to
connect directly to the air tank with rigid pipe. He says that some years
ago someone had a lot of trouble with tanks blowing up (major problem) and
they learned to use some kind of flex between the tank and the system.
Wish I could be more help th an that. The other fellow suggestion to look at
Ingersol Rand sounds like a very good idea.
<< how to design a compressed air delivery system? >>
It's pretty simple, really. Next time you have your car serviced have a look at
the air systems that the mechanics use and how they are piped around the shop.
Or if you can wangle a tour of a small factory or machine shop, same thing
applies. Keep in mind that many air compressors operate at 175 PSI in some
cases, way over the ratings for piping like galvanized and plastic. Put drip
legs with drain valves under each outlet, and duplex the outlets everywhere you
can. Top notch flex connectors to the compressor can be had from Aeroquip via
Graingers and others. Using 3/4" pipe is an advantage because it actually adds
to the compressor storage capacity. And don't forget to put in a 1/4 turn ball
valve before the piping so that if a air hose fai;s it won't make your
compressor run all night (assuming you rememebr to turn it off when you leave).
Thanks for the feedback. With regard to putting in the valve before the
piping, I can understand the logic but wouldn't it be just as easy to put
the compressor on a switched outlet and simply turn that off when not
Depends on how you look at it! I have a few small leaks in my piping, mostly
the quick disconnects are leaking slightly. I leave the power turned on all
the time, but shut off the valve at the tank outlet. If I shut off the power
the tank probably would be empty the next day and I would have to wait for
it to pump up. Shut off the air supply, and it is always full when I come
out. There are no leaks in the tank, so with the valve off the compressor
Yes, that is good idea, unless your plumbing is air tight. The
compressor will kick on in the middle of the night.
My idea is a timer, in that I usually only work for a few hours, and
forget to shut off the compressor, until it wakes me up. Flip on xx
number of hours of air, and forget about it.
I was planning out my pipe runs last night and realize that I have to run
through a finished ceiling area for about 35 feet. Unfortunately, I have to
take a 90 degree turn in the middle of the run. That means to run any rigid
piping, I have to take down some drywall. I can avoid that by running a
flexible line. I know it's not ideal but can anyone think of safety or
performance issues with running a high quality, 1/2 inch, rubber air hose
through the cavity? I would put shut-off valves on both ends of the hose.
Can you just run the pipe diagonally?
I don't really see why a 90 degree bend would make much difference about
taking down the ceiling. You gotta get the pipe up behind the ceiling
anyway, and there will be at least one joint.
To explain, I can get a straight pipe to the corner from both ends. I can
access both ends from an unfinished part of the basement. If I take down a
piece of ceiling drywall, I can solder a 90 degree elbow to join the two
straight pieces. I know it sounds odd but this is a finished basement with
some funny things going on with steel I-beams.
Run copper tubing. A thin wall flex (it comes in a coil about 12-18"),
which has 1/2" od, so it will solder into standard sweat fittings, which
then couple to the air tools.
Insure that the run has no dips or sags, which may collect water.
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