I have two Kohler toilets in my home. Both worked great until about
four months ago when one would not quit running. The plumber has put in
two new Fluid Masters, and it still runs without stopping.
I would say this happens about once out of every ten flushes, but it
makes me nervous. I have to stick around after flushing to be certain
it shuts off.
I purchased these toilets four years ago as I was told they were a
good product. My plumber hates Kohler. Now he is telling me to get a
Gerber toilet which I have never heard of.
Can anyone tell me if Kohler is considered a bad product,
and what about a Gerber toilet? Have you had one?
Many thanks. This group has always been a big help.
I had one toilet that was running every 10 minutes. It had a piece of
flexible plastic (rather than a chain) holding the flapper, and somehow
the plastic had shrunk. It was not stretchable, but I bent the flush
lever a little and that fixed that.
BTW, this is an old (looks like 3.5-gallon) toilet, and I was hoping to
avoid replacing it because people were having problems with low-flow
When my 25 year old toilet started to leak, I fooled with it a bit then
realized it was not worth the trouble.
The very cheap low-flow I got , much to my surprise does a pretty decent
The last water bill jumped quite a bit so I had good incentive to try to
Changing the toilet to fix a running toilet makes no sense.
All the parts involved in running are pretty much interchangeable
from one brand to the next.
Just keep trying, eventually you'll get things just right
and no more problems.
My most recent toilet is a Toto, a higher end model to boot.
The Toto supplied stuff leaked, the first replacement
leaked again, then the third try has been working fine
for at least 10 years.
Why do you want to replace the toilet? It sounds like you're having a
problem with the 'guts" of the toilet which were replaced by a plumber. Call
him up. Most likely he'll stand behind his work.
Two things cause a toilet to keep running. The float can be set too
high and water runs down the overflow tube or the flapper is not
The float adjustment on the fluid master is just sliding it up and
down the wire. Push it down, the water level is lower.
If it is the flapper, try lengthening or shortening the chain, one
link at a time until you find the sweet spot where it works right.
Kohlers are particularly sensitive to this.
An email to the manufacturer's tech support will give you the
recommended starting point. I think it was 9 links on my old Kohler
Over the past seven years I've had six Kohler toilets installed both at
home and at work. They all work perfectly and Kohler has an outstanding
reputation. Also installed Kohler faucets and shower controls. Sounds
more like you need a new plumber. Have him come back and check his work
as it may need adjusting.
After only four years you should not have needed both toilets repaired.
I know nothing about Gerber so I cannot comment.
OP said her water is hard. Calcium residue build up can cause flapper
seating not water tight. Sounds like plumber did not do his job proper
investigating and checking things out. By now we pointed out all
only four years you should not have needed both toilets repaired.
BS, Tony, unless you're now claiming to be the OP, the only person to
mention hard water is you. (at 6:43PM)
While it's certainly something to be considered in the overall scheme of
things, Kate didn't bring it up. You did!
Why do you say something like this?
We've had Gerber in the past and now have Crane.
Unless you haven't told us something and UNLESS you're having problems
with toilet stoppages, your problem isn't the design or brand of toilet,
it's the flush valve and/or the adjustment of same.
I'd try a new plumber before trying a new toilet.
Take the top off the tank, and observe how the tank refills after flushing
when it is ok. Then see what is different when it keeps on running. Does
water go over the top of the overflow tube because the float is not rising
properly, or does the water leak/run out around the flapper valve at the bo
ttom of the tank because it does notj reclose properly? The flapper valve
assembly can be replaced for under $15 USD, plus plumbers labor. Shouldn't
take more than 10 minutes if you have the flaper valve assembly. The float
assembly can similarly be replaced for little money, an only a few minutes
On Monday, December 29, 2014 3:34:05 PM UTC-8, Kate wrote:
This is a wild shot but it happened to us. Ours would do the same thing.
After many times of looking it over I discovered that occasionally when flu
shed the chain would kink a bit not allowing the flappeer to seat fully. F
ixed by attaching a fishing weight to the chain which kept it from kinking.
On Monday, December 29, 2014 4:34:05 PM UTC-7, Kate wrote:
You could protect yourself from that with the Leak Sentry version of
a Fluidmater valve: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA8ck5zeHM0
But I think the the problem is the chain to the flapper valve tucking
under the valve because it's too long, or the chain is getting kinked
close to where it attaches to the rod for the flush lever. The chain
should sag just slightly when the flapper valve is closed.
Hard water has nothing to do with flapper valves leaking, unless the
seat is made metal and has corroded, but Fluidmaster sells a seat
renewal kit that's almost as easy to install as just a flapper valve.
OTOH vinyl flapper valves eventually develop a dent where they fit
against the seat. Any flapper that's not black is vinyl, but some
black ones are also vinyl.
For many years, Gerber pressure flush toilets (plastic tank inside
the ceramic tank) ranked at or near the top of Consumer Reports'
toilet evaluations and were often the ones plumbers would install
when they had to guarantee good flushing. But now there are many
other toilets that flush just as well and don't need pressure tanks
but instead use conventional valves. Personally, I wouldn't get a
pressure flush toilet due to the possibility of explosion if the
pressure tank (plastic) ruptures, and the surrounding ceramic tank
provides no protection against that. Also pressure flush is noisy,
and gravity flush toilets use conventional flush valves available
Toilet ratings, Consumer Reports, 9/2012, Notice the lack of
quality consistency among brands.
Model / Gravity or Pressure flush / gallons / removal of solids / bowl cleaning / noise
American Standard Champion 4 2002.014 G 1.6 A B A
Gerber Avalanche 21-818 G 1.6 A B A
Toto Drake CST7445 G 1.6 A A B
Kohler Hiline Classic K-3493 P 1.4 A A F
American Standard Clean 2514.101 G 1.3 B B B
Aquasource AT1203-00 G 1.3 B B B
Toto Eco Drake CST744E G 1.3 B B B
Kohler Cimarron The Complete Solution K-11813 G 1.3 A C B
Kohler Cimarron K-3589 G 1.6 A C B
Kohler Wellington K-3575 G 1.3 A B B
Gerber Avalanche HE-21-818 P 1.3 C A A
American Standard Cadet 3 FloWise 2835.128 G 1.3 B D C
Gerber Avalanche 21-014 G 1.3 C A A
American Standard Cadet 3 Flowise 2403.128 G 1.3 B D C
Gerber Ultra Flush 21-318 P 1.6 B A D
Gerber Avalanche Ultra FLush 1.1 EF-21-318 P 1.1 A A D
Penguin 524 G 1.3 C A B
American Standard Cadet FloWise Pressure 2462.100 P 1.1 B A D
Mansfield Alto 137-160 G 1.6 D F B
Kohler Devnshire K-3488 G 1.6 F A A
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