Hi, my 15-year old garage door is not working: I tried different things, but it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall, though the light in the opener blinks.
Does anyone know what is going on? Would it be worth asking a service man to come check it out, or it is actually worth just replacing it with a new one?
Thanks a lot!
On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 5:40:29 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
The light would not be blinking if it was not getting power.
As Oren suggested, I'd start with the photo sensors. Very common
for a problem there, ie debris blocking the lens, knocked out of
alignment, wire broken, etc to cause the symptom.
Inspect the door and the track rails to make sure there isn't anything
that could be blocking the door's progress. Check around the sensors,
too, because even something as a minor as twig in front of the sensor
could be detected as a block. If the sensor detects a block, it won't
move the door.
Manually release the door from the opener. Open and close the door
manually. Does it move easily? If not, check for obstructions and look
carefully at the tracks while moving the door. The track may have come
out of alignment and need adjusting, or just need a bit of lubricant
to help the door move smoothly.
Next, with the opener still disengaged from the door, try running the
opener. Does it run? If it does, there's a problem with the door or
the frame, something that is triggering the sensor in the opener and
keeping it from moving the door. Sometimes this can fixed just by
making a minor change in the opener's travel or force adjustment
settings, but it could be indicating a bigger problem with the door.
I once had an opener quit running only while connected to the door.
The problem turned out to be a bent door frame. The part of the door
frame the opener arm was attached to had slowly bent over the years to
the point where the force needed to move the door exceeded the
opener's force limit settings. The solution was to replace the bent
section of door frame with a sturdier piece of steel.
I second all of that. You might just have a sticking mechanical
interlock switch too. Unplug the opener and rotate the belt on the
motor to open the door a little and try rocking it a bit to see if it
starts working when you plug it back in. Unplugged, move each switch
actuator and see if it clicks.
There are usually at least 2.
Usually the photo eyes have a LED that indicates they are seeing each
You can't just jumper out the photo eyes. The opener needs to actually
be able to communicate with them.
On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:15:02 PM UTC-5, Hilbert wrote:
but it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall
, though the light in the opener blinks. Does anyone know what is going on?
Would it be worth asking a service man to come check it out, or it is actu
ally worth just replacing it with a new one? Thanks a lot!
My experience with the photo eye circuit stopping and then reversing the mo
tor is that if you hold/continuously depress the pushbutton on the wall, yo
u can force the door to go down. Of course, as soon as you let up on the p
ushbutton, the door will go back up. When it gets all the way up, it does
flash the light built into the opener itself to tell you why the door went
it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall,
though the light in the opener blinks.
come check it out, or it is actually worth just replacing it with a new one?
If neither the remote controls or wall mounted push button operate the opener
ensure that its power cord is plugged into a working power outlet. If it is
plugged in, test that there is power coming from the outlet, to do this plug in
a known working appliance such as a hairdryer for example and switch it on, if
it works you have power, if it does not the power outlet is the problem.
If you have power going to the opener and you can smell a burnt electrical odor,
it is likely that the motor start capacitor is at fault, without special test
equipment the only way to confirm this is to replace it.
If there has been thunderstorms recently the circuit board may have been damaged
by lightning or a mains surge, this is not uncommon, inspect the board if you
can see signs of burning (black marks) the board will need replacing, to prevent
damage in the future fit a surge protector.
If you can hear the motor operating but the door is not moving it is likely that
one of the nylon drive gears has worn and needs replacing. The problem could
also be that the travel carriage teeth that engage with the screw drive have
become worn, in this case you need to replace the trolley assembly.
n Tuesday, April 22, 2014 2:44:01 PM UTC-4, Terry wrote:
If there was no power going to the opener, the light wouldn't be blinking.
The most common causue of a blinking light and the opener not operating is
a problem with the safety sensors, debris being in the way or out of
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.