Yeah, yeah, what was I thinking?!
The inside knob activates the latch whether you turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, so you just turn the whole lockset 180 degrees.
The deadbolt requires reversing the shaft.
no it doesn't..
the keyway on the knob lock will also be 180 off. the half moon shaft only goes through the spring-latch one way. it is not reversable.
no it doesn't. in order to time a deadbolt, with the key out of the lock, the tail-piece on the deadbolt goes half way (centered) between all the way left and all the way right, no matter if it LH or RH...
Right, looking at it I now see that. I wonder why they couldn't design it so the half-moon shaft could go in either way.
Yeah, my mistake.
I agree stop doing that.
A | door that swings away from you as you approach it with the hinges | on the right hand side, is a right hand door. The same door | pulling toward you is a right hand reverse.
what the hell are you talking about "right hand reverse" you mean left
no.....................your other left.
example: in-swing door with hinge on right is a "left hinged" door.
when entering (pushing a door open) whichever side the hinge is on IS THE HINGED SIDE.
unless it is a cabinet door then it is based on the pull of the door.
you (or someone) must have installed your lock wrong. when an anti theft pin is installed correctly. the latch will not budge even with a c.c. because the pin is depressed half way to prevent this from happening.
pay up little man put that shit in my hand
Guess that makes TWO guys who have never worked on a Kwikset knob lock?
It would be nice to have a DIAGRAM of those two apparently deeply hidden clips as locating them was too difficult for me when I tried on my own. The good news is I complained to Kwikset on their web site and they very kindly responded multiple tikmes to my email.
The first time they responded, they said many people just leave the locks upside down. When I responded back that I thought that was unprofessional, they kindly wrote back that they would send me the tool for free.
I must say that my anger at them subsided at that point as the Kwikset support person was truly trying to help me.
I've since learned this is a "grade 3" lock and that a grade 1 or 2 would be better. Since the door has glass panels, I wonder if it really matters. I guess breaking glass leaves a mess while removing the lock cylinder does not?
If a thief removes the lock cylinder with that tool, does it leave a telltale mess or is it transparent?
The tool that Kwikset will send you works from the inside of the lock after removing the spindle. You have to take the lock off the door first. A crook wouldn't use that tool... Maybe an exterior used cylinder removal tool like the A-1 Puller. That lock will work fine on that glass door (oil the piss out of it prior to installation). Besides there're going to get in anyway if they want. Glass....
I can't believe how long this subject is floating around. HD and Lowes has that tool in there rekeying kit. They would've popped the cylinder out for you for free. At least they do and would've here! Hell I would've done it for free. With my fancy Rytan removal tool. :-) Kwikset probably sent you a tool just to stop all the emails (polite way of saying "shut you up"). They probably caught wind of all these.
Roger
Actually I've worked on them extensively, doing re-keying at least three times in my house, and once at someone elses house. I just never ran into this situation.
You have to remove the spindle and then probe down the spindle hole. If you don't have the tool and have to do them one at a time it helps to insert a key in the lock and use it to pull so the clip you did doesn't pop back while you do the 2nd one. It can also just be knocked out like other people have suggested.
Here it is step by step:
Has this horse been beat to death yet?
Chances are they won't take the time to replace the pop-out.But even if they do, it will look like someone drove a screw into the keyway. The Kwikset-or Tylo, or "kwikkie" or "pop-job" is a very prolific and cheap lock that lots of people buy because they are cheap. I have done plenty of them when I first started doing locksmithing years ago. I don't work on them or rekey them that much because they are so easily replaced. Like the other guy said-you bring it to the shop-I'd probably do it for free. There's probably a lockie out there that would do that-or not for very much.
Next time you want a lock for a door, go stand in front of the door.If it's the front door stand on the outside and stand right in front of where the knob/lever is. Now position your body so that half of you is in front of the door and the other half of you is front of the wall next to the knob/lever. In other words imagine that the frame of the door (next to where the knob/lever is)is a vertical line running parallel to the middle of your body. Stand a few feet away from the frame with your arms down. Now bend your arms at the elbows like you are shooting 2 pistols from the hip. Which hand is closer to the knob/lever? If left hand-It is a left hand door If right hand-it is a right hand door If the door opens outward in either case-it is reverse. So it could be right hand-(If your right hand is closest and it opens inward)or right hand reverse-(If your right hand is closest and the door opens outward) Or left hand-or left hand reverse.
Alot of grade 1 and 2 locks will be handed, so you are better off, especially if you can tell a locksmith"Well, I need a deadbolt for a Left-Hand door" or "I need a deadbolt for a right hand reverse door".
Hope this helps. goma.
Next time you do. Please try to reverse the handing of the lock by twisting the exterior knob 180 degrees (leave the cylinder in). Then put it all back together. Uh, er, I mean TRY to put it back together.
Beat to death, and starting to turn to glue.
I'm confused.
In this thread, people already previously said the handedness was simply a matter of where the hinges are. If the hinges are on the right, it's a right hand door. If the hinges are on the left, it's a left hand door. Or so I was told.
Is that not true? Does it really depend on whether the door opens outward or inward?
Then considering you were the first to respond to it why didn't you just give a useful answer the first time you responded? Come to think of it I still haven't seen you tell them how to get it apart and here you are still on the damn thread.
If the door swings out, it's called a "reverse bevel".
Stormy if you can do it they can do it. Most end users know that if change keys in a master key system ghost to locks they aren't supposed to open the problem needs to be addressed instead of covered up in hopes the customer will "never find out". I've said it before I'll say it again: You are nothing but a hack ripping off the customers you work for. You are living proof of the uselessness of beauracracy. If it were worth anything your 'locksmith' and HVAC/refrigeration 'repair' activities would have been shut down long ago.
From: "Stormin Mormon" Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing References:
Subject: Re: anyone have experience using masterkeypro2006 ? Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:26:27 -0500 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 Lines: 41 Message-ID: Organization: Road Runner High Speed Online
Two works, in many cases. I did a MK in a factory where someone had filed and ground the plugs. I ended up making a 4-step, and even then I could jiggle a couple of the keys to get em to work in different doors. I hope they never find out.
Thanks
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