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1 month ago
That sucks! I have not had that problem.
80% of 15A.
15 x 120 x 0.8 = 1440W ?
1250 is close to 1A each for 10 receptacles. Going from memory, commercial receptacles count as 1.5A. Maybe? But not for residential.
Oh, yeah. You can break off the outer cap sometimes.
They make it really hard for kids to stick things in
Most electricians would rather use one size wire for as much as possible so they only need to carry 2 or 3 wire sizes - 14 for normal circuits. 12 for 20 amp, and stove/dryer cable
My build crew was one step lazier - there's no 14ga in this house.
Sometimes I remove the outer cap, but other times I just drop a few drops of super glue between the two caps. Both ways work well.
Good friend is having her kitchen redone. Has "edison" circuit splits on countertop. Being a StabLok panel 2 pole GFCI breakers run about $300 up here in Canada so we will have to double up the box and install 2 duplex GFCI outlets in each location. Will be installing Dead-Face GFCI outlets "in series" with the separate circuits for refrigerator, OTR Microwave, and dish washer - at the panel - because single 15 amp StabLok breakers are almost $100 each - dead-faces are about $25.
I hear mine without my hearing aids - with hearing aids virtually not.
vERY interesting. I read about a hearing aid that covered up single tone tinnitus, so for the first time I went to see a hearing aid company. She told me that, Yes, it worked for single tones, but what I had was not that. As I said before, it's the sound of water running in a pipe, shhhhhhhhhhhhh, and she said that was a composite tone, and it wouldn't work. Surely if it would have she'd have been happy to sell me something, but maybe your experience is different. Should I try again, another company?
Those sound like some fancy breakers.
So did some girls I dated.
I didn't know about using super glue. That could be easier. Thanks.
That might explain why this house built in 1969 has no 15A circuits. All
240V circuits are 30A (except the 50A for central A/C).
Must have gotten a good deal on #12 - - -
They are aftermarket replacements for an obsolete panel who's original manufacturer went out of business before GFCI was code. Still cheaper than replacing the panel which requires bringing SO MUCH MORE up to code.
Could probably add a subpanel that takes modern breakers.
StabLok wss FPE - Federal Pacific Electric. Reliance Electric bought FPE and found out fraudulent test results had been sent to UL. UL pulled the listing for part or all of FPE. Quite sure you have heard all that. Did the scandal hit Canada? I thought Canada was selling StabLok under another brand - Challenger?
Limited testing by the CPSC found some breakers failed one of the trip tests and GFCIs, which I think were very new, might jam and never trip.
I know two people who have had house fires because of FPE panels. One actually saw the panel glowing.
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