Not without some sort of backing to bridge the broken pieces.
As long as you don't care about appearance. I'd get a piece of stout aluminum - or maybe polycarbonate plastic - and back the two sides with it, attaching with aluminum pop rivets.
I don't know what the plastic is but if it is ABS even PVC glue might work. I would also reinforce the back with glued on fiber glass to get a good joint. If the plastic is polyethylene it will be tough to glue but maybe you can pop rivet with metal backing.
It will almost certainly be some sort of polyetheline or poly-urethane -there is a product made for repairing the urethane bumpers - a 2 part epoxy-type p[roduct - one I have used is Dynatron #660 dynaweld. Works reasonably well - but NOT cheap at $81 US from Napa.
I've used both the Dynaweld epoxy and the rivetted or screwed on plate - the plate is stronger, simpler, faster, cleaner, and cheaper. If on the front of a bumper, a split can be repaired almost invisibly with the dyna-weld - with a lot of sanding and painting.
Used to be the bumper covers were TERRIBLY expensive and repairing with dynaweld was a big money saver - today aftermarket covers are available at such low prices the $81 dynaweld product and half an hour of labour is the same cast as a new bumper skinin many cases.
Down where the repair is not readilly visible, the screwed or rivetted plate makes more sense.
Short piece of tape to hold it in place, then cover both sides with the fib erglas cloth from an autobody repair kit. These come with fiberglas reinfo rcement and the binder (either polyester or epoxy depending on how cheap yo u are). The repair is pretty sure to be stronger than the original.
Can't f "The majority of modern plastic car bumper system fascias are made of thermoplastic olefins (TPOs), polycarbonates, polyesters, polypropylene, polyurethanes, polyamides, or blends of these with, for instance, glass fibers, for strength and structural rigidity."
Part is not particularly stressed but glue alone is probably not sufficient. There are also all kinds of 2 part epoxies most likely a lot cheaper. I'd look for a lower modulus one for gluing plastics but chemistry is the same and any should work.
If there is a lose piece of plastic, simple tests like solubility and burning can often identify it.
Polyethylene and polypropylene both have a waxy feel and are very difficult to bond. I've never tried it but supposedly the Loctite product does work.
The usual technique has been plastic welding. 'White' Gorilla Glue, not the woodworking type, is polyurethane and should work. You need to clamp the backing material tightly since the glue foams as it sets.
That just about covers the thermoplastic field...
Clamping, welding, epoxy with fiberglass, drilling, stove bolts, new aluminum pieces, getting a new bumper, going to the salvage yard to get another one, taking the old one off to better repair it, testing to find out what kind of plastic it is, and God knows what. Or he could just use crazy glue, like I did. It worked, It was a 5 min repair. Crazy glue works with every plastic I've seen. And like I said in my first post, what's the downside? If it comes loose again, the wheels aren't falling off, the car isn't going to suddenly stop. Amazing how people can turn a 5 min repair into a cluster f*ck.
On 19 Mar 2018, TimR wrote in alt.home.repair:
I went to the auto part store yesterday to look for that stuff. They had the fiberglas mesh but were out of the resin. It it's warm enough tomorrow (I have to work outdoors) I may duct-tape it together until I gather the materials for the final repair.
Are you in an area with boats? A marine supply store usually has a good selection and they also have fiberglass tape. Not the sticky stuff but just the glass. Trying to cut the square of cloth into strips tends to go south fast as you try to paste the unraveling strands into place.
On 22 Mar 2018, rbowman wrote in alt.home.repair:
I am (Boston)! And there's a marine supply place nearby. I hadn't thought of that. Good idea - thanks.
This may have to wait a couple of weeks. I'll be traveling next week. When I get back I hope the weather will be more amenable.
The marine stuff is much better but 10 times the cost. YMMV.
If it's epoxy resin and fiberglass fabric he wants, many places have it, including Home Depot, Lowes, maybe Walmart and local hardware store too. I'd bet they are less expensive than a marine store.
Maybe, but read it carefully before buying. Most of those are polyester resin rather than epoxy. Every time I've looked for epoxy it's cost a lot more.
Epoxy is stronger and safer to work with (less likely to cause a chemical sensitivity reaction and less vapors) but more expensive.
On 23 Mar 2018, TimR wrote in alt.home.repair:
It kinda depends on the quantity I can buy. I don't need to rebuild a boat hull - a couple feet of mesh will do me plus the small amount of resin or epoxy. I know the auto parts place had about what I need for maybe $15 total.
Like the man said, it's a small repair outdoors on a car. He's not building a boat hull. But then I used crazy glue, 50 cents, to each his own.
That's true but it doesn't mean that polyester is not useful. One problem with epoxy is the cure time - slow. Poly can be catalysed so it sets almost instantaneously. Anothe epoxy nuisance is the fact that it blushes and the blush needs to be removed before painting; further, if exposed to UV it has to be painted to protect it from deterioration.
As far as cost, epoxy is always more but cloth and resin prices also depend upon source and quantity. I use these people...
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