My door bell has stopped working correctly. Need some advice before
tearing everything apart..
The button outside is illuminated.. When pressed, light turns off, but
does not trip off door bell unless I press and hold multiple times.
(when doorbell goes off and depress button, the button stays off until
chimes end.. times when doorbell does not go off while holding down
and release, light goes back on..
Don't think it is switch because light works, and turns off when press
down.. so, I think the circuit is being completed to the door bell..
My guess is either transformer or bell itself.. But, if transformer is
not working correctly, no current would be going to the switch,
Transformer is about 5 years old.. Door bell is OLD..
No relays. The switch contacts are likely bad - shorting the switch
will confirm. If shorting the switch doesn't work, most likely cause
is a bad chime, since power is getting to the button light.
I'm betting onr a bad button though
Couple of possibilities: First, it sounds like you have a motorized 4-8 note
chime, and not the typical ding dong. Some of these old models require 24
volt transformers to work properly, not the typical 16 volt. Check inside
the chime for the specs. Second, many of these old motorized chimes don't
work properly with lighted push buttons. Do what John Grabowski recommends
and shunt the two push button wires to see if that makes it work properly.
you may have to eliminate the lighted PB
It goes off because it breaks the light contact, but does not make a good
enough contact to ring the bell. BTDT
My doorbell was broken for 20 years and I finally fixed it. Thankfully it
broke again; this time it will stay broken. People that I want to see know
to come to the side door.
That's not how doorbell switches work. There is only one (normally open)
contact with the light across it (there is no "breaking" of the light
contact). When the button is pushed the circuit is closed, causing the bell
to ring and the light to go out. If the light goes out, the switch is closed.
Maybe, but it is still not good enough to ring the bell. At least it was in
my case. Replacing the button fixed it. Easy enough to check rather than
the OP insist it is not without doing the simplest check first.
On Sun, 19 Dec 2010 16:21:48 -0600, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Don't bet on it. All it has to do is pass as much current as the
light needs to turn the light off - which may not be enough to run the
chime. The ONLY way (well, the simplest, anyway) to know is to short
Agreed. It's the part that's exposed to the elements and skin oil and
whatever else people have on their fingertips when they push the button.
(Eeeewwwwuuuu!) It's the most likely point of failure and very easy to
test. It's where I would start to look unless I knew that something had
changed elsewhere in the "chain."
If that didn't improve things, I would then disassemble and clean the chime
module since that's the only other moving part and could have accumulated
dust and pet hair inside the mechanism. I'd probably measure the resistance
of the wires at the doorbell button before I took apart the chime to see if
there was a problem in the wiring.
It's not the transformer. They dont' break like "this" whatever this
I'd pull out the doobbell button and touch the wires together. That's
better than the assumption you've made.
I think the button is dirty inside. It's the only part of this system
that is outside, and who wants to live outside? Would you put your
children on the front porch year after year, never letting them come
in? Would you do it? Yet you do it to your doorbell button. You
should be reported to the police. Button-abuser!!
You deserve all the troubles it's giving you, considering how you
It's dirty enough to not let the bell work, but not so dirty that the
light doesn't go out. That's not hard. The neon light has a fairly
high resistance. The button when closed will have a resistance lower
than the light, so most of the current will bypass the light. But not
enough will pass to power the doorbell, which has to move the hammer,
the rod inside the solenoid, fast enough to make the plate vibrate
when it hits it (and also against a spring, a weak spring for sure,
but it makes the power requirement slightly higher).
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