I have an 4 year old Beko A Class Fridge/Freezer with the
fridge on the top part.
I live alone so cant blame anyone else, but often after closing the
freezer section door, I later find it had not closed tightly and a lot
of frost/ice forming inside.
I keep reminding myself to check it has shut correctly but it still
Is it possible to increase or renew the magnetic catch plate, or fir a
2nd closure to the door?
Any thoughts welcomed.
If you haven't done so already, properly defrost the freezer compartment.
If there is any ice preventing the door shutting tightly the problem will
At only four years old I wouldn't expect to be replacing door seals. Of
course it's always possible that it is faulty. You might find a childproof
catch that would add an extra level of closure protection.
Does it really have a magnetic catch plate? Most machines have a hollow
flexible seal with a magnetic strip all the way round, which should seal
all the way round (check with a strip of paper).
I have a Samsung fridge-freezer which was a bit like this when
delivered, but the seal relaxed itself after a short while and now works
A standard "fault" on new machines is for the door to be slightly out of
plane, effectively with a slight "crease" along one diagonal. Service
guys get the householder to go away while they correct the geometry with
judicious use of force (with the door still in place).
Start with the "paper" check.
This reminds me of a friend who I've known since university. She did
physics, so she really ought to know about these things... She had
complained on Facebook that her fridge was not getting really cold. Various
people made the point about putting a lot of newly-bought shopping (at room
temperature) into it and that it may take a while after that to get back to
the correct temp.
Then she threw in a bouncer. "Does it matter that my fridge doesn't have a
door on it - the door fell off a while ago". You could tell from the various
responses on Facebook that people were trying to be very polite and
restrained, while wanting to say "You silly moo. Of *course* it matters! How
the F is the fridge supposed to keep cool if all the cold air is falling out
of the fridge and being replaced by room temp air".
She muttered something about placing lots of bottles of Coke at the front of
the shelves to make a sort of partial door, but I still can't work out what
was going on. It seems that the fridge had sort-of worked (though the
compressor ran 24/7) for several years but now it wasn't. The poor motor had
probably finally seized up through overheating and over-use.
Going back to you problem. I had a deep freeze that sometimes failed to seal
properly at one corner - you could see condensation on the outside of the
case at that point. I found that once it had got into that state, where one
but of the rubber seal was not making a good contact, the best remedy was to
use a bit of sellotape to hold that part of the door tightly shut for a few
hours, after which time the seal had returned to normal and/or the freezer
had cooled down to -18, and then you could remove the sellotape and open and
close the door as normal.
Also - check that the feet are carefully adjusted. Does the gap normally
appear at the top or bottom? This can be a sign that the cabinet has
twisted slightly due to the feet not being adjusted carefully.
That's possible though unlikely as condensation streaming down the door
would be obvious. I think Alan was mixing up a fridge door with a freezer
door, the latter rarely having storage capabilities.
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