Gunner, I have a picture of a piece of paper with the drawing and dimensions. Please tell me if this is all you need. Sorry, forgot to measure the muffler's pipe diameter.
Hey! Thats just fine. works for me. Measure the muffler diameter id on the end with the splits in it. I think...think thats the side that the hose attaches to.
One thing that I really Need..is the location of the bolts in relation to the bottom left corner of the port. Its hard to tell if the vertical line of the port bisect the bolts or not, and where.
On a fresh sheet of paper, draw the rectangular opening. Using the lower left corner of the port, measure to the left, to the outside of the bottom bolt.
Repeat for the top bolt, using the lower left corner. Measure to the outside of the bolt.
Now do the same, from the bottom left corner, to the bottom of the bolt. Repeat with the top bolt, to the top of the bolt.
This gives me the location of the bolts in relationship to a fixed point. I simply divide the bolt diameter in half, to find the center of each bolt, in the horizontal and vertial axis.
Other than that, you did a great job.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
Thanks.
Will do.
Thanks, not much of a job, obviously, but I will take some more measurements. Worst case, I could drill the holes for the bolts, myself. Maybe it is even a better option?
i
Nah..Ill do it. You gave me enough data points to find bolt centers, but Im a big fan of "measure Twice, Cut Once"
Id hate to go to the effort of doing a nice job and have you screw it up with an 18vt cordless drill
You may..may have to open the holes up though if I don't put in enough fudge factor.
Ill also NEED to know what size hose you are going to use. That's moy importante. The adapter plate is the easy part..its the hose connection that's gonna be a toughy, as I have to leave enough meat that the metal doesnt fatigue and break out where the hose joins.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
The Russians even say "measure 7 times, cut once".
I agree with that saying.
I agree with this approach.
understood. I will take more measurements tonight.
Thank you!
i
I concur.
I cut it twice and it's still too short.
2' won't break the bank, leaves room for errors.
I think gunner is right. Depends upon the diameter. The steel flex conduit will be much cheaper, and the box stores can cut whatever length you need.
Isn't it too thin gauge for the gas comout out right from the exhaust?
iGunner, I got some more pictures of dimensions, including a fairly accurate paper cutout.
I can mail you that cutout, it is the most precise thing and probably easiest for you to work with.
Gunner's going to have to put a pipe stub on the machined 'exhaust manifold' that you will have to attach the flex tube to. The piece of flex tube conduit I used seemed to work. My problem was odd size of the muffler pipe stub. Had I had time and still owned the vehicle, I would have done just what you are doing.
If you don't play slinky with the flex conduit and bend it back and forth it should keep the seal in the spirals. A point to think about is that the flex tube will be hotter on one end and cooler on the other. If you examine the spiral, you will notice on one end of the tube if you follow the spiral, it starts on the outside and stays there. On the other end it starts on the inside. Each successive spiral overlaps the next. On the inside, or the outside depending on where you start.
You will want the inside on the motor/ hotter end so that heat expansion of the spiral seals it against the outer spiral.
AFAIK, the difference in the automotive flex pipe, is that the automotive has a bigger overlap
Thank you!
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