I reckon I can manage to file him out an adapter...got this really neat rusty old maul I might be able to chop one out with...
Gunner Owner, Coyote Engineering Full service OmniTurn CNC and manual machine tool repair. Serving Central and Southern California, Western Aridzona and the Western States. "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke
Boy am I envious of you. Work and play are the same for you. And you got all the toys too.
I won't get mad at you unless you start bragging that your tool is bigger than mine.
Old saying be a fellow I knew in Electronics, "The better you are, the less tools you need." He carried a 4 inch minus screw driver in his shirt pocket.
I think the old maul might be just the tool for the job. 8?)
Let's see what the O.P.s got for the problem once he posts or sends some images.
Thanks. Its taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get those machines. Much of them were cast offs found behind factories or sitting in corners as they were broken or too worn for a production environment. Ive rebuilt/repaired them into pretty decent users. I dont have much money in them, but I sure have a lot of my off hours sitting there in the shop.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
It sure would. Of course gasoline makes very poor diesel fuel. It can damage the engine if it will run at all.
No. diesel engines are designed for diesel fuel and gasoline can damage the fuel system. It is also a fire hazard since the diesel fuel system is not designed to safely handle gasoline, even a small amount mixed with gas.
I know Buba has been adding gasoline to his diesel tractor fuel for years to keep it from gelling. It is not a good thing to do.
I am, also, jealous. After running my half marathon in 2:08, on pure low carb diet, I am back and took some pix of the muffler and port and the generator.
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I have the dimensions of the exhaust port on a piece of paper, but my scanner does not work. I can fax them to you Gunner, or, if you do not have a fax machine, I can work something out, maybe get the scanner to work.
I also (as you see on pictures) bought a tractor muffler. That's what I will hope to attach to the genny and the exhaust port.
Using photoshop, or any other graphics program, text edit the dimensions on
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or a copy of it. I need to know the size of the hole, both height and width, and I need to know where the centers of the bolts are located.
Using a common point..hummm left bottom corner, I need to know exactly where the bottom and top bolts are located in relationship to that bottom left corner. Measure to the center of each bolt. If you have to, use a small perfectly square chunk of something as a reference square. I also need to know the diameter of those bolts and how long they are, and how long the unthreaded portions are.
I should mention..that there is not a hell of a lot of material in the area of those bolts, so you MUST make a support member to hold the muffler to the genset frame, else the vibrating lever called the muffler will simply crack out the aluminum housing around the exhaust port.
In fact..Id use some small steel flex line from the adapter and run it to the rigidly mounted muffler. Cut a piece of bar or at least 3/16" x1" flat stock, long enough to be bolted horizontally to both of the cart frame uprights and at least 6" away from that plastic fuel tank. Make two, and put one on the other side, with a couple pieces of All Thread and it will make a dandy place to hang your extension cords when not in use.
You can secure the muffler to the horizontal flat stock with a couple of standard hose clamps.
I also need to know the ID of the split end of the muffler. That is the input end I think. I can make you an adapter to fit whatever it is you are going to use for flex line. Perhaps you can scrounge up a 12" length of 1" STEEL flex conduit. If not..Ill see what I can find. Flex conduit is not ideal for this..but it will work for light duty such as this. 3/4" might work..shrug..might be a bit more backpressure than is good.
Give me the specs and Ill use a dull ax to shape something for you.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
Ill mill out an adapter plate with a turned and threaded hole in the proper place (with proper bosses).
See my previous post about port thickness and breaking it out by hanging the muffler directly from it.
The threaded hole depends on the size of flex he can scrounge up. Standard steel electrical conduit should work well enough, although actual flex exhaust line is greatly prefered.
Diesel engines tend to have very heavy vibration and a static connection between muffler and exhaust will very shortly bust something.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
Good point. Even the big road diesels have short lengths of flex pipe in the exhaust. I never gave it much more thought than the flex in the motor mounts under torque.
gallons of diesel fule. An excellant product, I managed fleets of trucks in the northeast and found it was the best product for me. What happens is the wax in the diesel fuel falls out of suspension clogging the primary filter first. I would also discourage the use of starting fluid as it always causes cracks on top of the pistons although very small and can and will cause an "ether lock" which will stop the engine from turning over until the ether disipates. You must be very careful with starting fluid because serious damage will result with improper use. Ron
Gunner, I am also emailing this post to you. How do you want the dimensions delivered to you, do you have a fax machine? Thanks!
I have them all written down.
I will buy whatever exhaust line is best. I thought that I could make an angled connection, so that the muffler faces upwards.
I completely agree and I thought about the same thing last night. That the attachment should be able to not turn leverage and vibration into a breaking force.
I will do that (or get the scanner to work) tonight. I can also make a piece from cardboard that matches the bolt holes exactly and the opening etc. This way there will be no doubt. I can then mail the cardboard piece to you if you want.
Will do.
I completely agree, but note that the difficulty is that the genset vibrates extremely, IN RELATION TO THE FRAME, at low rpm. I am talking literally centimeters.
I had exhaust problems with the apu genny I built. Being on the road all the time being the long winded and off topic part. The steel flexible electrical conduit would work, if you can get a good seal where it mates to the hard tubes, and it comes in small diameter.
Most auto parts stores carry flexible exhaust pipe. NAPA and AUTOZONE have it IIRC where I last saw it in a store.
Hey Igor, JC WHITNEY is down on I-80 near I-39. That's midway east-west and about 1/3 south from the top of Illinois.
It's more a warehouse than anything else, but you could do a will-call. Here's the links for their flexible tubing.
He only needs about a foot. I think at this point Id give 1" steel flex conduit a shot. And you can use standard conduit connecters, sweep el's etc.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
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