Bought new curtains and rods. Now I get to figure out how to get them up
How do you do it without having to draw a line all the way
across. I have
vaulted ceilings so I cannot measure from the ceiling.
On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:38:09 -0800, jamesgangnc wrote:
Agreed if you spend most of the time seeing them when they're open. Or
use the ceiling / any trim above as a reference if you're going to see
them most of the time when they're closed.
Of course in an ideal world the top of the window frame runs parallel to
the ceiling, but strange things can happen :-)
If floors are out of level sufficient to see a difference along the
bottom of the drapes, the greater problem is not hanging the drapes!
Good grief! Same with the window .. if the frame is not level and
plumb, it is either noticeable or not sufficiently so when compared with
the drapes. Since the rod and top of the window are close to each other
and both are visible when the drapes are open, it is the most likely to
be noticed if both are not parallel to each other.
If windows are of different heights, on can either size the drapes to
the window or make all drapes the same length so they look uniform when
the drapes are closed....not always attractive if the drapes are open
most of the time.
Floor-length curtains or short ones for normal windows? If floor-length,
before you start, lay a curtain out on the floor, put one of the hanging
hooks in the pocket, and measure from the hanging hook to the hem, to
determine how far above the floor you need to be. The dimensions on the
package can be misleading. SWMBO won't tolerate a big gap, or the
curtain sweeping the floor. BTDT, and it is a pain to re-hang the rod or
re-hem the curtain. Not a bad idea to do this even for short curtains,
to make sure they cover all the trim at the bottom of the window.
> On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 12:39:39 -0600, Dymphna
> >Bought new curtains
and rods. Now I get to figure out how to get them
> >level. How do you do
it without having to draw a line all the way
> >across. I have vaulted ceilings
so I cannot measure from the ceiling.
> How wide are the rods?
> DAGS for
a water level, you can make yourself if the window is really
for the kitchen is small - about 1/2" and about 45" long
For the living room is
about 1 1/2" and 102" long
Span that distance with a six foot level and make a couple of tic
marks for the fasteners, easy.
A string level (spirit/line level) ought to get you in the bark park.
The line needs to be taunt, so have some help to read the bubble and
hold the line. Again a couple of tic marks.
*A line level is a level designed to hang on a builders string line.
The body of the level incorporates small hooks to allow it to attach
and hang from the string line. The body is lightweight, so as not to
weigh down the string line, it is also small in size as the string
line in effect becomes the body; when the level is hung in the center
of the string, each leg of the string line extends the levels plane.
Being precisely level should not be the main concern in hanging a
curtain rod. The rod should be parallel to the top of the window, since
both are visible usually when the curtain is open. If the window trim
is a bit off level, the difference might (unusual) be noticeable. I use
a straight edge across the top of the frame, make a mark at the right
distance out and then measure up the desired distance. Ideally, the
bracket for large curtains/drapes should fasten to a stud, and that is
usually right next to the frame of the window.
Depending on the width of the curtain, you might choose different
distances from the side of the window to mount the brackets...curtains
can "stack" either in front of the window when open or the can stack in
front of wall, leaving the entire window clear.
Curtains like finish trim are not installed "level". They are installed to
please the eye.
In your case, measuring up from the floor is the way to go. But check and
make sure that the top of the window trim is the same distance from the
floor before you make any big holes unless your rod is well above it. :)
Standard deviation of +- 1/4" won't matter to most folks.
Should you have to make a hard choice, everyone sees the rod and the top of
the casing. Errors at the floor level are seen less whether it be to long
or to short.
Might be something at the site in my sig or at lexkyweb.com/windows to help
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