The house across the street turned into a rental upon the death of
grandma. 1st renter installed an old wood cookstove in the basement
that had a waterback. He didn't like the looks of the pipe stubs so
he put pipe caps on them. First fire he wound up with shrapnel
throughout the basement, fortunately, none penetrated to the first
The home where our pastor grew up was virtually destroyed around them
early one morning when the water heater blew. His parents bed on the
second floor was moved several feet and the main floor was basically
demolished. Miraculously no-one was hurt.
Thre's a good reason they require safety over-temp and over-pressure
About a year ago the boiler blew up at one of the frat houses at OSU, and it
effectively totaled the building. I'm not sure why the over pressure/over
temp valves didn't release. It did a *lot* of damage and they condemned the
building because of it.
On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 11:24:13 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:
My hot water tank is in the garage and the vent opens to let hot water run
on the front outside entrance. A small screened area.
I open it to rinse and wash down the floor there and it doesn't leak.
Perhaps it is because I use it on occasion that it doesn't leak.
Just saying it is not a one time use thing.
A reminder that International code calls for the discharge line
to be installed without a trap, to be able to empty by gravity.
Reason they called for that was for the garage installations,
or those little outside-access closets, etc. Ones where water
could potentially by in the pipe and freeze, effectively blocking
Also, I find it interesting how many discharge lines are done
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 03:46:36 -0800 (PST), Michael B
PVC or ABS is standard equipment on virtually all water heaters sold
in Canada. You CAN change it to copper.
What is more surprising is how many are installed with NO discharge
piping attached to the safety blowoff valve - - - .
The heater in the video was configured to a worst possible case
scenario, with all ports plugged and all safety devices disabled. In
most homes there is a back flow check valve on the water supply, so
there isn't much of any push back possible.
Even with some push back, if the water temp has gone high enough in the
heater, when the system ruptures at any point, even a toilet supply line
at the other end of the house, you still have a catastrophic
depresurization, reduction in the boiling point of the water and
flashing to steam situation.
The only problem with your "flash to steam" idea is with a fairly
small leak the flash is self regulating. The pressure will drop slowly
(in a 200 PSI sense)
When this blows the bottom out of the tank there is no regulation and
it really goes.
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