Coleman Powermate Generator

Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think the only difference between indoor and outdoor extension cords is that the outdoor ones are UV resistant. Since you presumably will only be doing this for a day or two every few years, I can't see why it would matter. You might want to keep an eye on it to make sure there is no deterioration.

Presumably your generator is not grounded; so there is little danger from one wire to ground.

what are you planning on powering, computer? TV ? are you planning backfeeding.

Its weird because some cords say "water resitant" but also stay DO NOT USE WET. Yes, the generator will be grounded. The manual states to install a 4' copper grounding rod. I am putting in a 8' one. There is a grounding lug on the generator and you run a wire from the lug to the grounding rod. All I want to be able to do, safely, is operate my generator from inside my garage when its raining outside. A power cord from the generator to the house(not to a transfer switch or anything like that, just a power cord) if its raining outside. I already have a #10 AWG power cord but on the label it says not to use when Wet. So I dunno. I used to use an outdoor power cord from my camper to a powerbox when I used to go camping. No matter if it rained or not, never a problem. All campers did the same.

I appreciate your reply.

Thank you for replying sir. My intentions are to run a power cord from the generator into a window in my house. Not a transfer box or anything like that. All I want to power would be a refridgerator, small freezer and maybe a 1/6HP sump/utility pump. The generator puts out 3000 running Amps so it should handle this but as I stated earlier I want to be able to run these items if its raining outside, Having my generator in the garage(unattached, with doors open) for just emergency conditions. If its raining the cord will be exposed to it. I already bought a 12/3 GFCI to plug into the generator and then run a waterproof power cord(if I can find one..I'm getting really mixed up about this) into a window. Thats it but its getting the correct cord thats my problem. Sure I have a #10AWG 50' but it says not to use WET just like all other power cords I looked at say, even though they say they are for outdoor usage.

That cord will work fine, its waterproof. The reason i asked what you will power is that generator i beleive doesnt have voltage stabilation and will swing with load . For a computer or tv you may have problems but a frige will be ok just monitor the output. You should test it at no load and load to be used to besure its set right. Some units are sold uncalibrated.

I have on hand a #10 AWG 50' powercord but on it it says

Consider buying a roll of outdoor underground feeder cable of the appropriate size/length and making up your own cord. Will be a little harder to coil/uncoil but you don't use it that often anyway---hopefully

It is debatable whether the generator is safer with or without a ground, but since you have elected to ground it, it is essential that it not be connected to your house wiring in any way. It is fine to plug stuff into it, but do not backfeed or use a transfer switch. That would establish a second ground, which could be dangerous.

Two other things: Someone told you to get some UF cable. That is entirely unsuitable as it is not designed to flex as an extension cord must. Since your generator is not voltage regulated, it would be speculative to power anything sensitive like a high efficiency furnace. Last big outage we had here, I heard about 6 people frying their furnaces. Sump pump is fine, fridge is probably okay; just make sure you don't overload it (remembering that these devices can take up to 10x their running currents to star; so if you start your sump pump while the fridge is running, it might not be pleasant).

Thank you sir. Its SJTW grade and like you mention I think it will be OK too. I called some RV dealers and they said it would be OK. I'm not sure how to test the unit at no-load and load. I will search the net and see about it. We have had a lot of rain and some power outages up here in Michigan the past several weeks. For the first time in 50 years I had water in my basement! Had to buy a utility pump and kept it on the floor drain for 4 days straight until the water stopped coming out of it(rain water from weep tiles, not sewage). So this is why I thought I'd better find a way if there was no power that I could use the pump as well as my small freezer and fridge. Last year we lost a lot of food due to that Big Outage that hit the E/NE US and Canada.

Thanks for your valuable information. I really appreciate it.

I am just following the installation procedure in the manual. I have no intentions in a connection to the house wiring. Hopefully I'll never have to use this generator too much but nowadays it seems the power goes out so often anymore.

Thanks again Toller. I'm just going to use my #10 SJTW power cord and I also purchased a short GFCI cord to plug first into the generator out and run my power cord from it. I appreciate you taking the time to reply sir...Regards!

My generac 7500 exl that came with a generac transfer panel , say to be sure use the ground built in the gen and says it is to be grounded.

Check output with a voltmeter at load no load. you really should ck Hz to, as 60hz is needed and many motors wont run if its off. 60 hz is usualy at 120v. A Kill A Watt meter or a good digital VM will do this. Dont leave the Kill A Watt plugged in on start up or shut down. To learn more ck Hondas site they have the cleanest power out today for small units. Generators can be real dirty messing up everything as they were designed before Circuits , which need clean power.

Man, I'm learning a lot from everybody. Thanks! I am looking up Kill A Watt meter now and reading about one. I have a VOM, and yes, will check the Honda site too...Thank you m Ransley

You need to learn what your unit can and cant do before you need it and are guessing. I dont know how you are going to wire it or pull power but remember each leg of the gen makes 120 depending on how its wired you could pull off one side only ,overloading it and burn it up. Thats where a transfer panel is smart it takes both sides and lets you balance your load . Learn your unit now before you need it, it has limitations they dont tell you or people wouldnt buy them, they would buy better stuff, ex Honda inverter or regulated. A freind, an electrician got a cheapie 5000w and didnt ck voltage before using it, he was without power for 4 days at 32f, so its understandable, well it wasnt factory calibrated , put out 155v 160 v and poof went his stuff. Also ck startup loads on everything yourself , to much load , which can be 10x for a motor and you have big generator and apliance problems. There is alot more to learn about them, it makes me wish i got a honda first , rather than a 1300.00 7500w generac EXL . Your unit has even greater limitations, namely voltage-Hz swings, it could be 50v from no load to full load. It may not do your job so research it now and be sure you have one that will be right for you.

I think the OP stated his unit was rated at 3000 watts , so thats like

You're absolutely correct m Ransley. I kind of bought mine on the spur of the moment because we had flooding(basement) and power outages here in the past week. You can't find a generator or sump pump in stock anywhere here in MI right now.

Well I ran mine today and put a Volt Meter on it. The voltage was swinging between 134.xx to 136.xx but usually hung around the 135 volt area. So I send Email to Coleman asking about it and they say I need a powerline conditioner if I am going to power sensitive equipment. All I want to power is a small freezer, refrigerator and a sump pump if flooding occurs. Since my unit is a mere 3000 running watt, 3750 surge I don't necessarily have to power everything at once. My thought is to power the sump pump continually and power the freezer for maybe 5 hours, then switch to power the refrigerator for 5 hours then cycle between them...however, if the sump pump is not needed then perhaps I'd run the freezer and fridge at the same time. I bought one of those Kill A Watt meters over the net yesterday that someone mentioned. It should be here early next week. I'll do some testing when it arrives. As it is right now, I've just been running the unit an hour per day to break in the engine then after 5 hours change the oil and be ready for full usage.

Thanks again for the info!

Thats an good guess. 120v One duplex/20 amps each side

You only need to power up the fridge and freezer until their compressors cycle off--generally minutes, certainly not several hours, unless they have been without power for quite some time.