Casting Large Concrete Pavers

naveenreddyla · 2007-05-18T23:09:03+00:00

I am about to start a project where I plan to cast a number of largeconcrete pavers in a mold for a patio and a walkway. The pavers willbe 2" thick and vary from 2'x4' to 2x8'. Each paver will haveembedded 3/8" rebar and remesh for reinforcement. I also plan to usesome synthethic fibers mixed into the concrete as well to preventcracking. I am debating if water reducer would be needed.I am using the bagged Quikrete you can get at the Home Depot. Myissue is to whether to use the regular or the high early concrete.Faster cure time would help me get the project completed faster.However, I am worried that the high early, since it cures faster mightbe weaker and more susceptible to cracking. My biggest concern is thatcosmetically the pavers look good for as long as possible.Does anyone have any experience with this process, or have anysuggestions that would help produce a casting with maximum longevity?Thanks,Naveen

May 18, 2007 Last reply: 4 years ago 24 Replies

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naveenreddyla 19 years ago

I meant I have been in over my head ever since the project started...........

So I will plan on putting in at least a 2" compacted gravel sub base with the 1" layer of sand on top. I will cast the paver/slabs at a minimum 3" thickness with 3/8" rebar and remesh. This is SoCal, so the weather is temperate and generally dry, and would have lesser impact on the concrete/rebar than in other areas.

Does anyone know the shape the rebar should be in for an application such as this - bent so that it runs offset a few inches along the interior perimeter of the paver/slab or should there be a bar running down the middle as well? Any thoughts on using galvanized, or any other coated rebar?

I was not against reducing the size of the pavers/slabs, down from my initial plan. I just wanted to explore the pitfalls of my design before I started. It looks I will have to reduce the the size ( the

2'x 8' are absolutely out) of the paver/slabs because of longevity and weight considerations of concrete. Based on my measurements and the gaps between the the paver/slabs for the planned area, the reduced size of each paver/slab would be about 21" x 44".

The reason I am intent on these large style paver/slabs, is in essence, to match the style of the house. This a 60's modern house, and there is not a whole lot on the market in tems of pavers that the match the clean look that I am going for. Many of the precast products are very traditional/tuscan/country looking and frankly would be a mismatch. The really basic plain pavers tend to look pretty generic and institutionalized. If anyone can point to a source for something like I am trying to achieve, I will gladly buy it.

The other option is to have a contractor come in and do a custom job, which will probably cost an arm and a leg. Given the that patio area is roughly 275 square feet, I think this doable.

I bought this house with what was essentially a junk pile for a backyard, which had never been used. I am trying not to spend an inordinate sum of money on this work, becuase I feel it would add little market value (but a ton of personal utility) to the house.

Naveen

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sylvan butler 19 years ago

I prefer what is called "3/4 road base" around here. It is a mix of crushed (not round) gravel from 3/4-inch down to dust. It compacts. Round gravel and even sharp gravel without fines does not compact well.

If it were me, I'd go back to 2", forget the rebar, use fiber mix 'crete and 10ga remesh cut to size of the paver minus about 1-1/2-inch from all the edges.

I'd prefer to take the time and do a test cast of a 1-inch and a

1-1/2-inch paver works over that solid base. With just foot traffic, I think it has a good chance to be OK.

You might be able to cast the pavers in-place over the base, and just remove the forms from between and fill in the gaps with dirt. No moving big heavy slabs. :) (I'd form up with 2x4's in a nice grid pattern, then fill in all the "paver" spots with concrete. Remove the 2x4's the next day. You could even have the concrete delivered, since you'd be placing the entire batch at once.)

sdb

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william bardsley 10 years ago

replying to deans, william bardsley wrote: Probably a good idea to cast in place. On that 2x8 if its doable, cut a control joint even a thin one and hope that is where it cracks. Fiber is great and a little thicker is good to if you cast in place. Let the concrete cure for 3-4 days before moving. 6 6 10 wire good if u can keep it centered in the 2" of concrete. Use the standard 3500 pre mix and throw a shove or two of portland cement in with the blend when mixing. MIX GOOD!!!! That is very important!!! See U can do it cheaply like u wanted but must make the work to do it!! Good luck.

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