I have a cracked concrete driveway. I wanted to replace the concrete with paver
bricks. I found a brick yard selling old (dirty) bricks (with three holes) at
20 cents each.
My question is would it be okay if I use the brick instead of paver stone? Since
it has three holes in the middle of the brick, I am not sure if it firm enough
Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Some pros and cons to using old bricks. They might look really good, and
are a great example of recycling, which is great to see. But I doubt
they'll have the strength that a concrete paver driveway will have, which
may mean something, or may not. If it's just a standard homeowner
driveway, with a small car parked in it, then that might not be a big
deal. If you park more vehicles on it, or it has some traffic, or might
have a truck or so occasionally park on it (ie, something heavier), then
maybe you might care about the strength. Also, pavers are made to
"interlock", where bricks aren't. This adds a lot of strength to the
entire job, as well as means they aren't as prone to shifting and allowing
grass etc. to grow through the cracks (your preference there, some like
All in all, I would go with the pavers for a driveway, and save the bricks
for a decorative walkway or other use that doesn't get the heavy loads on
Hope that helps!
Douglas E. Ruhlin
Environmental / Sustainability Consultant, CCPf, LEED GA, REM, CEA
Resource Management Associates
On May 11, 8:57 am, druhlin_at_resourcemanagementassoc_dot firstname.lastname@example.org
Most of the work is putting a proper base, and over time whatever
bricks you install will look shabby. Plus there are all sorts of
bricks most too soft for car loads. Dont even think of bricks with
holes they will fall apart they are designed for walls.
Heck a neighbor had pros install a beautiful concrete paver driveway
and sidewalks. Looked awesome:)
10 yers later it looks bad, the base moved in places, low spots
depressions and areas sliding so pavers have spaces.
NOTHING LASTS FOREVER:( but your brick idea will be falling apart by
the time its done:(
On Wed, 11 May 2011 12:57:47 +0000,
druhlin_at_resourcemanagementassoc_dot email@example.com (dougruhlin) wrote:
SOME pavers are made to interlock - but MANY are not Square and
rectangular pavers do NOT interlock. My driveway, and several in the
neighbourhood are rectangular "brick" pavers. Concrete bricks may
work, depending on your climate. Bricks with holes in them are more
prone to breaking from freezing (if they hold water) and clay bricks
will not stand up at all as pavers.
Friend of mine did this. He's a handy guy, also restores classic cars.
He built an elaborate garage/machine shop and decided to accent it
with antique gas pumps and a semicircular driveway and parking pad
made of recovered bricks. He did a proper job laying the foundation
bed and installing the bricks, but even so, the bricks settled
unevenly in some spots. Also, he'd decided not to clean the bricks
before installing them. Since they look old and dingy, they detract
from the look of his new garage. I think he'd have been better off to
use new pavers.
The bricks have holes to reduce weight and to lock them into place with the
mortar used when laying up a wall. I suspect - suspect, not "know" - that
they would be fine for a driveway. I also suspect they would be even
stronger if laid on edge rather than flat.
However, as others have mentioned, it is a *LOT* of work to clean up old
bricks; if all four edges are clean and just the face, not so bad.
To do what you want, these are the necessary steps...
1. Demolish and remove old driveway
2. Lay down, grade, smooth and compact a bed for the pavers. Around here,
they use crushed concrete for that; elsewhere, stone dust and/or sharp sand.
My only experience is with crushed concrete and it serves well, makes a good
bed. For a walk or patio, you need about 3" compacted by 1/3, don't know
how thick for a driveway...6"?
3. Lay the pavers. Many will have to be cut, very messy.
4. Vibrate pavers to compact
5. Sweep sharp sand into joints, compact again
6. Provide an edging so pavers don't move laterally. Edging can be metal,
plastic, stone, concrete. The edging on my patio is crushed concrete mixed
with cement and extends a couple of inches below the pavers to about an inch
from the top and is sloped from bottom to top.
There are two kinds of pavers...concrete and clay. All have nibs on an end
and side to provide space for the finishing sand and to help alignment. The
concrete pavers are available in many shapes and colors; clay is pretty much
confined to a standard brick shape and colors (reds, browns, yellows).
IMO, clay is vastly superior to concrete. They are stronger, color extends
through the entire paver (also true for concrete pavers if you pay for it).
However, ALL concrete pavers - even color through ones - will eventually
weather thus exposing the aggregate. Looks crummy IMO.
I had about 1700 sq.ft. of patio done last summer with clay pavers. Total
cost was $5.00 per sq.ft. That included ALL materials, ALL labor and
cleanup (no demolition needed). The bricks themselves were $2.50
sq.ft.($0.50 each), got a good deal, normally about $3.00. I could have
used concrete pavers and saved about 10%.
In short, unless money is a very big object and the used bricks are pretty
clean, I wouldn't use them for a driveway.
Info re clay pavers...
The city of pittsburgh installed concrete pavers in the downtown area
First they did the base with drainage pipes, big gravel smaller gravel
They they put in a foot thick concrete pavement.
Over this they put the pavers
If I were the OP I would cut and patch the concrete driveway, or
replace it completely....
paver bricks. I found a brick yard selling old (dirty) bricks (with three
holes) at 20 cents each.
Since it has three holes in the middle of the brick, I am not sure if it firm
enough for driveway.
I don't know about the brick for paving, but...
You can replace the concrete with new concrete that has stamped patterns
in the wet concrete for a paver look.
It is also done with asphalt paving, and asphalt can be colored.
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