I was ALMOST certain we were dealing with the same Looney under a different name - now I KNOW it - and way back then I gave a solution to the accellerated wear you were bitching and complaining about. AIR UP YOUR TIRES!!!! Rotating your tires does not reduce the wear - it just distributes it. A bit more air in the tire will keep it from squirming/leaning/feathering. So will using a tire better suited to your bob-sled-run twisty downhill roads.
Damned engineers - - -
Didn't even need to look at the header to see who wrote tis one!!!!
I've never heard it and I don't think it's true.
It's a multipurpose tool. The tapered end is for removing hubcaps and wheel covers, and the length is determined by what works for a jack handle, on the millions of cars which have used this wrench as the bumper jack handle. If they made it longer, and didn't use a stronger grade of steel, one could bend it by standing on it. Indeed, I did bend one that way, and that was when I weighed 170. If it was longer, a lot of them would end up bent. Once they're bent, they're never as strong again.
Apparently most people don't even change their own tires, if you figure that 90% of women don't and that's 45% of drivers. Plus what, 10, 20,
30% of men. Of those who do, most don't even think of standing on it, or, I suspect, are afraid to do so.Of course there are very few flats these days so getting good data is harder.
That makes too much sense! :)
Given that we're talking 85 foot pounds, being off square a little bit "probably" wouldn't matter anyway.
You'll note that I have both a beam style (Craftsman, circa 1980s') and a newer Pittsburgh 1/2 inch drive torque wrench in my original photo where the beam style has a pivoting handle.
The door sticker says 29psi, where I've been running 40 psi consistently for a very long time.
This is a good distinction that the wear will happen no matter what, but, by distributing it among the 4 tires, the tires should last longer, don't you think?
These tires are the stock size and load rating. The only thing different is that I'm running 40 psi instead of 29 psi.
I'm an electrical engineer - but this has nothing to do with that.
This video debunks the myth.
This video tested a ten foot extension with the torque wrench.
Are you saying you're debunking your own previous post?
The guy in the video says that a wobbly extension will throw off your torque reading [if you're not directly above the nut, which is likely with a wobble and the whole point of using a wobble] "Have to stay on axis. If you do get off center, that will throw off your readings"
Garrett turbocharger compressor nuts are bi-hex (and cack handed). I had to special order a 8mm bi-hex 1/4 drive socket as it's not a stock item. You won't find bi-hex 1/4 drive sockets even in "pro" socket sets.
All nuts/bolts used by a Derby based jet engine maker are bi-hex flange nuts/bolts. They are much lighter (and unbelievably expensive when made from aero grade nickel alloy) as the bi-hex size is at least a size smaller - there are 12 points to drive it so it's stronger.
The French at least have a word for "inch" which translates as "thumb" and is a colloquial measure of length. They also have a word for "foot" which would be recognised as a length.
There are lots of other historical French units, some of which are still used in particular applications in (UK) English such as printing (e.g. points).
I was talking to someone recently who is in the car rescue / roadside assistance business and he was saying that one of the growing problems he sees is that cars come without spare tyres and an increasing number of call outs are to people where the tyre cannot be repaired with a can of squirty gunk and there is no spare in the vehicle.
Maybe it does in the sense that you want things down to the gnat's ass. Good enough for what it's for is a common measure in my world. I've changed a few tires over the years and never had a torque wrench. None has ever fallen off or the rim wallowed out. There was a time when someone changing a flat was a common sight. Tires would last about 20,000 miles.
the "wobble" or a flex joint allow you to be "off axis" without making the socket "bind" on the nut, which is what throws the torque off when you are "off axis"
Cracks are more likely to start at a *corner*. That's why crankpins on a crankshaft have a radius at the fillet. The radius also keeps the impact forces back away from the very tip of the hex point.
It is thicker and made of a stronger material.
They are stronger because they need to be in order to resist the
*impact* forces.
A hex socket is much less likely to round off a nut.
It's off topic, but I put the following related items in my trunk kit, even though I prefer to repair my flats at home by removing the tire completely from the wheel and then using a one-piece patchplug that both seals and fills the hole from the inside out.
I can't please everyone with the details, but I do appreciate learning from others who have the intelligence to understand and convey the details better than I do.
I wouldn't think of not using a torque wrench, but, I did watch a dozen videos last night on how to /calibrate/ the torque wrench.
The problem is not in twisting the calibration mechanism, but in having a known good standard. A lot of the calibration videos use the Harbor Freight $40 Item #68283 "digital torque adapter", which seems like a neat tool if I didn't already have a bunch of old-style torque wrenches already.
Since my old-style "made in usa" (so you know it's old!) Craftsman torque wrench is likely still accurate, I can use that as my calibration standard.
There's value to doing a job right, in and of itself.
For example, when you choose a tire, you choose it by the specifications, and then when you mount it, you mount the red or yellow dots (depending on the brand) next to the valve stem, and you clean and statically balance the wheel sans tire, and then you mount the tire by the dots, and then you statically balance the assembly (often it takes no weight) and then you take it for a drive at speed for your dynamic balance test (almost never do you feel any vibration that would indicate a dynamic imbalance at speed).
Same with repairing a puncture, where we all have successfully plugged a hole from the outside with the rope plugs, which aren't approved by the RMA but we all know that method to work just fine.
I get pleasure out of the method of marking the tire (so that I don't change the balance), breaking the bead with the HF bead-breaking tool, and then dismounting the tire with a different HF tire mounting tool, then marking the location of the injury from the inside, removing the offending protruding nail (or whatever), honing the hole from the outside to 1/4 inch standard size (or whatever was chosen), buffing the inside area to remove non-sticky layers, applying the cement and waiting for it to get tacky, applying the cement to the patchplug and then pulling it through with pliers, rolling down the patchplug from the inside from the centerline outward to force out air pockets, and snipping off the protruding metal tip, and then covering the inside area with the blacktop formula (whatever that black gunk is made up of).
After that, if desired, I replace the valve stem, and then I remount the tire on the marks made prior to dismounting, and then, after setting the bead at about 60psi (whatever it takes to pop) and airing up the tire to
40psi, I doublecheck static balance, and if necessary, I rotate the tires on the vehicle or put it back where it was, making sure to torque the lug nuts evenly to 85 foot pounds.Some people get pleasure in doing things the "right" way; others don't care to.
I get a flat about once every couple of years, where it's almost always a screw (dunno why but it is). If flats used to be more common than they are now, you'll have to explain to me why.
If it's true that flats are less common now than before, than the natural question to ask is: a. Are tires more resistant to punctures now (what with steel belts)? b. Or are screws and nails less prevalent on the roadways nowadays?
It has to be one of the above if it's true that flats are less common now on radials than they were in the olden days of bias-ply tires.
I've got a Petzl Tikka headlamp in the car, along with a couple of flashlights. The advantage of a headlamp is the beam is focused exactly where you are looking rather than trying to position a separate light. The flashlights, one of which is 1000 lumens, allow for a wider beam.
Royal Music Association? I've had good luck with the common rope plugs, including on an almost new motorcycle tire. I rode home slowly but without any exciting events. A few more short trips without any disasters and I forgot about it. It did develop a slow leak by the time the tire was worn enough to be replaced.
I now carry Dynaplug kits on both bikes that have tubeless tires. Knock on wood, I have not had to field test them. On a bike you don't have the option of getting out the spare (unless you ride a Ural with a sidecar) so roadside repairs are a necessity. Speaking from experience, plugging a tubeless tire is a lot easier than breaking down a tubed tire and patching the tube while the bike is propped up on whatever you can find.
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