Do the Germans and French also use "inch" sizes for their ratchets?
I see. Like you, we only speak of "gallons", where we don't ever need to distinguish between your gallons and our gallons, I guess. :)
I believe it's an international standard with no metric equivalents for the "drive" side of sockets.
If you have a spare jack, place it under the extension bar to reduce sideways load on the socket. You can then use your full body weight on the breaker bar with less chance of breaking the tools.
That's because 12 point sockets are not the best to use on an impact
- as discussed previously.
And yes, they ARE fatter - because they REALLY need to be.
Give the lad a gold star!!!!
You can't. You can check it but you don't have or want ior need the equipment to adjust the calibration.
Don't get started on the "doing it myself I will do a better job than ????" crap either!!!!
Clamp the square end in a vice and hang a known weight on the handle exactly one foot from the center of the square. Or use 18 inches or 2 feet and adjust the math.
Basically YOU can't. a beam type cannot be "calibrated" as the flexibility of the torque arm is a function of the alloy, heat tratment, and dimensions of the beam. The spring tension an a "clicker" can be adjusted in various ways, depending on the manufacturer/model. Someuse shims. Some use a simple allen screw in the end. Some use a set of wedges, and some cannot be recalibrated, period.
Get out another gold star!!!!
Then just HOPE they have the equipment rwequired to calibrate it. I sent in my 35 year old Snap-On clicker for calibration and they returned it saying "too old - we don't have the equipment for that one any more"
Or distort either the rim or the flange - - - -
ANd they are ONLY effective with an impact wrench - and it still requires at least half a brain. They are NOT a replacement for a torque wrench.
I think the only time I ever saw that was on the fuel pump bolts on a '67 Pontiac. I wondered why there of all places.
That is where a deep socket comes in handy
Depends on the vehicle/rim.
No difference in torque, but a short offset makes it less likely you will end up going "off square" from the nut
Which would have an effect if you used too small extention (like 1/4 inch) - at the torques we are working with, and a 1/2 inch extention, a 3 foot extention would not have a measurable effect.
But the extension is not a mile long and anything lost in twisting a 10" extension is too small to measure. However if you have the extension so it's tipped a little, not in line with the axis of the nut/bolt, then some torque is not in the direction of turning the nut, and the longer the extension, the more is lost. This happens when the socket is loose on the nut, not especially lug nuts.
AS usual you are overthinking things. The reading would not change.
Nope. On SOME simple beam types that was true (they had a "pivoting" handle)
If youhave a pivoted handle, you are correct. Not a common design (at least not any more in North America - Canada specifically)
That's the beam wrench, and it is to make sure you don't "torque" the handle - that you only pull tangential toi the beam
It's an accepted international standard - but there ARE others - including hex drive inch and metric, as well as hex "through" sockets with inch or metric, and likely half a dozen or more other "odball" configurations.
Good idea.
I left my car sitting for a month after I had surgery, and one wheel had no cover. And snow covered up to the top bolt for most of the month.
Months later, I was at Newark Airport and when I got back to the car, it had a flat tire. I had the jack handle/lug wrench, and the bolts were rusted on so tight I had to stand on the wrench to loosen them, I even had to lift my body up and down on a couple, and I broke off 3.
What to do? Leave the car there, have it towed to a shop, take public transportation back to NYC and then to Brooklyn, then take public transportation back the next day, or drive home.
Of course, i drove.
Tire was on the left rear,and every time I turned right it went clop, clop, clop. When I turned left or went straight, it was quiet.
Drove on Route 1 -- fairly quiet because most people on the Turnpike -- to the Holland Tunnel. What to do? If you break down in the Holland Tunnel, you delay traffic when it's heavy (This was Sunday evening, when everyone is coming back from the weekend) so they keep a tow truck there all the time. But they charge you a 100 or 200 in the 1970's which would be at least 500 now. Still, it had worked well so I took the tunnel. Turned east on a small street towards the Brooklyn Bridge and just as I got to Broadway, big thump. Got out. Wheel has come off the car. Last two lug nuts had broken. What to do?
Almost no cars Sunday night, but Monday morning it's lower Manhattan rush hour. Cars everywhere. Not allowed to park on the narrow street I was on. Scouted ahead and found a parking lot a short block North up Broadway, which is one-way South.
Jacked up the car, put it on on the brake drum with no bolts. Lowered the car and drove. Got 8 feet!! Hey, that's pretty good, but then the wheel fell off. Jacked up the car, put it on on the brake drum with no bolts. Lowered the car and drove. Didn't make it 2 inches. Wheel fell off. Jacked up the car, put it on on the brake drum with no bolts. Lowered the car and drove. This time it went 40 feet to Broadway, turned left (the good direction) 100 fett up Broadway, left across the curb and sidewalk into the parking lot. All in one shot. The wheel fell off just as I got fully inside the parking lot.
Took the subway home and returned the next day with tools to punch out the broken lug nuts, and new lugnuts. Took 45 minutes. Done by 10AM. Parking lot guy wanted to charge me for 3 spaces because I was parked sideways, but he caved easily when I said it was only 10 and he'd fill the spaces, and he only charged me 1.5 times the daily rate. (His point was that the lot filled up by 9, but I guess I was right that some people came later.)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.