OK, then here's the solution. Get a battery backup for the pump.
IF you only need it for 5 minutes and a 2k genny can run the
pump, a battery backup can certainlyu handle it. End of fuss and
stupid ideas. You're beginning to look like a troll and this
thread's about to completely turn on you.
ARE you trolling?
: Ok here's the deal. I have another generator, which runs the
rest of my
: house. Its a honda 2000i, I can't hear it from the house when I
: in the garage with the door open. I wired it up to a transfer
: with 6 circuits and it works perfectly.
: Problem is, it does not have 220V. The only thing in my house
: needs that is the well pump. And I dunno about you, but water
: MOST important thing to me after a day of blackout.
: Hence my original question. I am here getting opinions and will
: them when this thread is done. I know for sure I can run my
: the basement and make zero smoke and just a little smell. I
just need a
: 220V generator. I dont see the big deal about running it for a
: after all how long does it take a well pump to provide 100
Cogen saves half the fuel's heating value, which US utilities normally waste.
Not so in the rest of the world, nor in the US in the 1930s. Many buildings
were heated this way before utilities stole the show. Small cogen is coming
back big as natural gas CHP, with plans for Honda engines heating water in
10,000-20,000 UK kitchens.
EU2000 cogen makes sense to me, piping the exhaust into the top of a $200
natural gas water heater, esp. if we can replace mechanical parts when they
wear out (a $129 cylinder assembly?) and use a propane or NG conversion kit
and a larger oil sump to lengthen the 100 hour oil change interval.
I haven't looked at the EU2000 air intake. Can we put the water heater in
a small plastic film room in the basement and depressurize that room with
a pipe to the EU2000 air intake? That would help assure that any exhaust
gas that leaks from the pipe connection at the bottom of the water heater
to the outdoors ends up outdoors, while the heat from the engine ends up
in the basement.
Having done MIL-217 and FMECA and telco reliabiility studies, I don't worry
much that the inverter will fail quickly. I assume it's well-designed, with
electrolytics sized for ripple currents, moderate junction temps, and so on.
When will Mr. Wizzard try plugging his EU2000 into a wall socket? :-)
If we make electricity with fossil fuels, why waste 80% of the heat?
Nick its closer to 1/3 heat loss.
Pipe it to the top, no the bottom is better as you have no condensation
provisions in your pipeing, it could fill with water ruining the motor.
Best is a constant angle down from exaust port.
Depressurise the room, exuast the gas inside the building, a rube
mononberg idea. Lets see, insurance would be cancelled and an inspector
would deem house uninhabitable. Your idea will kill people. Also a fire
hazzard of running a gen inside, but you never heard of leaking carbs,
cracked fuel lines, stuck floats, gas fumes, spilt gasolene etc etc etc.
Gasolene anything, does not belong inside.
Your postings might make more sense with more context. If you are talking
about "waste heat," burning 1.08 gallons of gasoline with a fuel value of
135K Btu in 4 hours at the 1600 W rated load makes 6.4 kWh (21.8K Btu) of
electricity and 113.2K Btu of heat, 100(113.2K/135K) = 84% of the total.
We can safely recover almost all of that with an EU2000 in the basement.
I already answered that concern from you. The top is better: warm gases
rise and counterflow heat exchangers are more efficient and condensation
will not occur until the pipe enters the water heater.
It may be time to ignore you now.
Initial cost + running costs / lifespan - disposal price = true cost.
Let me know if that saves you any money.
Leaving the window open sounds like a stupid idea. Warm air rises and goes
out the window. Cold air rushes in to replace it. Carbon monoxide generally
builds up along the floor and stays there. You could asphyxiate and freeze
to death at the same time.
Properly, designed, there's a change it might work. Low RPM, water cooling,
plant outside and the right type of fuel might pencil out to something
competitive with utility rates, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Ask someone
with lots of experience with this sort of thing like that guy from Alaska.
Chances are, he has worked out a lot of the bugs.
Show how you arrived at it. With the rated load for a EU2000 of 1600W, it
uses a gallon in 4 hours (1/4 gallon in an hour) Abt 50 cents an hour to
produce 1.6 kwh. Now add depreciation.
At 1/4 rated load of 400 W the running time is 15 hours. Abt 13 cents to
produce 400 W.
Nicks numbers are wrong again ol senile nick, if it was that cheap to
generate electricity Id buy a thousand hondas and make a fortune selling
to industry. I pay .125 kwh soon to be .15kwh. Aint No Way a honda can
do it cheaper nik. Re run your numbers nicky, At worst case Id but a
honda, convert it to NG and disconnect the utility. it aint gonna
happen, nor will 10000 hrs at 3600 rpm. Elkryder is getting only 1000
hrs off a superior water cooled 2 cilinder 3600 rpm Honda, And he junks
one a year. Everyone I know says 3600 rpm hondas good for 3-5000 max. As
I said run it 50% load 00 rpm and 10000 is doable. Google for your
evidence of truth and fact. and quit posting bs
Nick we would like to see how you arrived at a operating cost of 5.9cent
per kwh for a Honda EU 2000, everyone else arrives with a cost many
times that amount. At 4000 hr life, 3600 rpm, 2.25$ a gallon fuel I
come up with apx 1.56$ per kwh. Alot different than your Magical dream
of 5.9cent kwh number. No you never posted them. Also document a EU
2000 that can even possibly run 10000 hrs at full load-3600 rpm.
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