Can't Get Diverter Stem Loose

[Red Green]

Damn plumbing. Never did fancy it.

Replacing 3 handle faucet setup in a shower. Actually got a specific kit made aware of in this NG.. All new handles, flanges, stems, seats, the works for $35 called a remodel kit. Got stems and seats out of both hot and cold OK. The diverter won't budge. Got pretty good wrench on it. Did some muscle, some tapping (praying sweat joints behind wall don't give), soaked with product like Liquid Wrench for several hrs. NG.

Only thing I can think of now is heating it. keeping in mind to open the valve so that the seat washer doesn't melt down into the supply pipe and that there's a plastic washer on the diverter.

Stem is long which limits some options.

I scribbled a blue arrow on this pic. That's where I'm thinking of heating it.

Looking close, it looks like there's some goop where the stem base meets the wall pipe where it should separate. If it's the same goop that looks like is in the bonnet, that's soft goop. The bonnet does come off easily.

Ideas & Suggestions?

[Speedy Jim]

You're planning to heat that with an open flame, as in "torch"? Uh Uh.

I sure wouldn't try it.

If it is 100% essential that the diverter stem come out, put the longest wrench you can find on the thing and pray.

Worst that can happen then is that you'll have to open the wall to replace it. \\ Jim

[Red Green]

Speedy Jim wrote in news:eyPIj.1554$ [e-mail]:

Well Jim, plumbing is really not in my skill base. I get by fixing common crap like toilets and sinks, can sweat, done some PVC Sched 40 pipe setup/welding, etc.

With these limitations yea, that's why I'm asking here BEFOREHAND. It's not like I'm gonna be putting an oxyacetylene torch to it. I'm just thinking propane to heat it, wrench and some tapping. Not planning on getting it cherry red, warp brass, melt sweat joints inside! Just some heat to try and free up whatever is causing it to be frozen. What do you think a plumber would do then? Maybe the answer is warn the customer it's frozen and could require wall opening if things snap.

I'm curious to see any other replies.

Thanks, Red...

[Speedy Jim]

I wasn't being critical of your skills. Just a cautionary.

I *like* using heat, just as you describe. But I'm fearful of directing a flame into a wall cavity.

If I _had_ to use flame here, I would open the wall enough that I could bend a suitable metal sheet around the valve body as a heat shield. I would also use a household sprayer to mist the cavity with water.

Still think I would use the big wrench first though .

Jim

[Red Green]

Speedy Jim wrote in news:BpWIj.23343$ [e-mail]:

I was!

Weather it burns or breaks the wall will end up open:-) At least if it breaks I can shut the water off. If it burns, then I'll probably wanna break it fast. That skill I have.

Thanks again.

[Red Green]

Red Green wrote in news:Xns9A74E479F15CBRedGreen@

216.168.3.70:

ok, WHEther it turns...

No sense being totally ignorant about the English language too.

[Red Green]

Speedy Jim wrote in news:BpWIj.23343$ [e-mail]:

In the end I left it. Not worth the risk since it works. What needed to be changed was the H&C stems along with the flanges and handles. A shame having the new one right in hand but I'm here typing and not trying to fix broken stuff in the wall unable to shower (other shower needs fixin' too).

At least I was able to take the bonnet and bonnet rubber sleeve that goes under bonnet off of the new diverter and put it on the stuck stem. No runs, no drips, no errors.

Only 123,475 more fish to fry. Some very big.

Thanks again, Red...