Can anyone identify this water pressure regulator. It i leaking around the adjusting screw...
I'd like to get a repair kit for it, but cant find a make or model.
The house was built in in BC Canada in 1975
No.
However, that is a 1973 patent number.
Here is a model that looks close:
I looked with a mirror on the other side, Couldnt see any make or model .
I looked with a mirror on the other side, Couldnt see any make or model .
Just put in a new one. Jeeeeze....
The picture you see is shooting thru a small access hole, To get in there with soldering torch , cutting tools, etc is going to take major work. I read that these things can be rebuilt without removing the body.
make the hole bigger, use a couple shark bite connectors, you're done in
15 minutes or less. And no broken off screws which lead to replacing it anyway and being without water.
Sounds like you have all the answers
"Ray" wrote
That may make it easier, but after 35 years, chances are the housing and insides are crap and the unit will have to be replaced anyway.
Many regulators have a metal tag under the adjusting screw. That will have the pressure and the model number. Were any other houses build on the street at the same time? Maybe you can see theirs better. You can try matching it up with major brands, such as Watts.
I have rebuilt Watts regulator (valve seal,valve stem, and diaphram) but to get a wrench (and back-up wrench) in there...you will still need quite a hole!
He may not have all of them-- but he has the right ones in this case. Yet you come off like the know-it-all that asks a question and doesn't like the [good] advice he gets so he 'bites' the hand that is trying to feed him.
Have a nice life- Jim
nope, but i have been known for doing things the easy way.
I dont remember asking how to do any of the work....
This will entail ripping out the basement interior wall and access panel drywall and framing. Big Mess in the family room.
replacing the valve, rebuilding the wall, drywall, priming, painting which I think will take more than 15 minutes. All of which I have plenty of experience doing.
I only explore the possibility of rebuilding the valve. I didnt even ask about that. I asked what model the valve might be.
MIB was the person very helpful !
Save yourself ongoing problems, and the potential for a very expensive flood. Replace the entire unit, regardless of how much work it is to do it correctly. I would further suggest that rather than re-sealing the wall, you cover it with an access panel. This is not the kind of thing that should be sealed inside a wall without some way to get at it easily.
Don't forget to check the water pressure when done. These things are often not set accurately from the factory.
this item should not be behind a wall anyway. I'd do the repair properly and make an access panel or door for future access. Surely it's near the main valve anyway, right? Or at least it should be.
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The rebuild kit for mine was not much less than a whole new unit. Slapped it in and turned the water back on.
It was suggested by 2 different plumbing supply houses that rebuilding them is just not worth the trouble.
I replaced ours last year. It was a quick job because it had a half union. Just out of curiosity I asked how much the rebuild kit cost and it was only a few bucks less than a brand new regulator. They said no one ever buys them for that reason.
Same thing with the single handle laundry valve. It had a little drip. The rebuild kit was $1 less than a new valve and looked like it would be a bear to install. I removed two screws, swapped the valve assembly, installed the screws and the job was done.
re: "It was a quick job because it had a half union."
Did you have to sweat anything?
Mine had a union, but even after loosening it, there was no way to get the regulator out.
I had to cut a pipe on one side and sweat in a repair coupling.
It was no big deal...less work that adding the access panel to close off the hole in the ceiling.
That was fun...feel free to ask how I did that - and made it look good too.
I don't know the ratings for shark bites, but the pressure before the regulator could be well over 150psi. After the regulator it's no problem but before it....???? Maybe the water company will tell you the approximate pressure?
I sure hope Shark Bites are rated for street pressure.
I just installed 2 so I could "upgrade" the backyard hose bib to street pressure I tapped into the street pressure copper that goes to front hose bib and ran PEX across the basement to the back yard bib.
Actually, I already knew that they are.
Stolen without permission from:
Maximum Working Pressure:
160psi @ 73.4=B0F (23=B0C) 100psi @ 180=B0F (80=B0C) 80psi @ 200=B0F (93=B0C)As long as it stays under 180=B0F in my basement, I should be OK.
re: "Sounds like you have all the answers."
I don't know if he has *all* the answers, but he sure has this one.
Before I knew about SharkBites I made a big hole in my basement bathroom ceiling and sweated a new regulator in. Sure wish I knew about SharkBites back them.
SharkBites are *sweet*, especially for cramped spots and quick fixes.
A few weekends ago I turned off the water, cut the pipe going to a hose bib, slapped on a SharkBite cap and had the water back on before the commercial was over.
I was back in the shop watching the ball game without missing a pitch.
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